Shopsmith Forums

I'm Shopsmith poor. I only have one.
Several years ago, I added a a Jointech Sawtrain and router table system to my SS. A great addition, BTW. But, it does pose some problems. First, when the saw train is disconnected from the table, the Jointech fence cannot be used and, due to the Sawtrain's necessary table mods, the SS fence is inoperable, too. Secondly, the table/SawTrain must be disconnected in order to tilt the table.
I have a spare, unadulterated table, and use it frequently for other operations. Now my question.
I want to make a jig to make 45's on the ends of 10-20" boards for boxes. I am not a fan of the tilted table for 45s! So, the jig will ride on the table @ 90*.
My dilemma is how to assure consistent lengths when the to be cut end of the work must ride on the table when using a jig that also rides on the table.
If I cut the boards to exact length @90*, the following 45* cut has to be extremely accurate as to final length. A little iffy for me. Maybe there is a way to make the jig that would solve the problem? Maybe placement on the table???
I'm sure someone has done this before me and I'm attempting to reinvent the wheel.
Thanks for your time and brains.

Does the resulting finished board need to be exactly xx" long or would it be satisfactory if the xx" long boards were just "all equal in length"?

Assuming you can square cut them to accurate length, and the 'jig' positions the workpiece so its end(corner) is sitting on the table top AND the jig just clears the saw kerf, and you can maintain that position through the cut then I think it can be done. This is similar to what Shipwright did when cutting his curio table sides with mitered edges.

Proper set up will control 'accuracy' of the bevel cut. Proper cutting to length will control the final length.

Note also how he created the 45. (diagonally cut a square) (bandsaw)

Run this ? past Paul!!!!

Your dilemma is exactly why I have a table saw. But, to make the jig, you want some elevation where the slope of the jig meets the saw blade. The higher that point is above the table, the greater the amount of material you can trim off your boards.

After making the jig, you can fine tune that 45 degree angle by tilting the saw table ever so slightly. Make test cuts to ensure you have the correct angle. The angle needs to be exactly 45 degrees and the length of opposite sides of the box need to be exactly the same length, otherwise you'll get less than perfect corners. To get the matching lengths, use a stop block positioned along the "fence" of the jig and I'd glue onto that fence some sandpaper to better grip the stock and help prevent it from sliding down toward the blade.

You'll have to rough cut your stock to something barely over the finished length in order to use such a jig. Perhaps something like 1/4" or less oversized.

For boards not much more than about 6" wide, I use this setup frequently. The end of the fence makes an excellent reference point but I must wear my glasses to get reliable, repeatable lengths.

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:)Do these count as "shop pictures" for that other thread?:)

Thanks guys, for your input!

Dusty, The sides/ends only need to be parallel after the cuts. Exact lengths are not too important. As I heard recently, "If it's too short, we can always splice it. But, if it's too long, we'll just have to throw it away.":D

JPG, What you describe is how I was going to attempt it. But those words "Exact" and "Accurate" are my bane. I did it this way once for a triangle box for a flag case. It took me quite a few attempts to get it right. Accuracy, for me, means lots of trial and error....and mostly error.

Art, While driving home this AM, your solution came to me as a flash of inspiration. Judging from the time of your post, my inspiration came at about that time. You must be telepathic!
I would say "great minds think alike", but then, as applied to me, I'd only be half right.

Thanks again, guys!