Getting Accustomed to the Table Saw

tomsalwasser · Post by **tomsalwasser** » Fri Apr 08, 2011 9:05 am

Greetings woodworkers,

While I've owned my Shopsmith for years (it sat mostly unused) I'm new to the table saw mode so please bear with me. I used this handy setup to crosscut some long stock down to rough size. It utilizes 2 fixed extension tables. I like having the second fixed extension. The rip fence and crosscut sled make for safe, easy and accurate cutting. Also note the elevated height of the extension table on your right to match the sled height. The table is nearly 7 feet long.

Best,
Tom

[ATTACH]12571[/ATTACH]

dusty · Post by **dusty** » Fri Apr 08, 2011 9:24 am

I like your setup but I see something in the photo that would be of concern to me. It appears that you have the cross cut sled and the rip fence in contact with the work piece simultaneously.

There might be a relief spacer between the rip fence and the work piece; I can't see for certain. I hope so.

No doubt though, the Shopsmith is great for doing this sort of work. I especially like the cutoff sled for longer pieces.

tomsalwasser · Post by **tomsalwasser** » Fri Apr 08, 2011 9:45 am

[quote="dusty"]There might be a relief spacer between the rip fence and the work piece]

You are correct Dusty there is no relief spacer and there should be. I must admit I never use one, especially working with MDF as much as I do. The saw powers through it with ease and never a kickback. But I think I'll make a spacer anyway just to establish "safe working practices" like Francis said in another post. You never know when things can go wrong.

Oh, and again, happy birthday Dusty!

Best,
Tom

Underdog · Post by **Underdog** » Fri Apr 08, 2011 10:23 am

I confess, I've always cut wood as shown in the picture.

If I'm following this correctly, what I should be doing is using some sort of spacer between the work piece and the fence so that as the work piece slides forward it is no longer in contact with the fence as it passes through the blade?

If that's the case, how do you accurate measure between the fence and the teeth of the blade? I've always run a measure directly between the two. Should I be measuring my spacer, adding that width to my desired measurement, and then setting the fence to that "new" measurement???

dasgud · Post by **dasgud** » Fri Apr 08, 2011 10:44 am

I clamp the spacer to the fence then measure to the spacer. After I have the fence distance placed with the spacer, I'll slide the spacer to the front of the fence (closest to me) before I start the cut.
I made this table saw gauge a couple of months ago that makes measuring the distance to the fence a lot easier now too.
[ATTACH]12572[/ATTACH]
The gauge sets in the miter slot, the knob locks the adjustable bar, and I use the block that sets on the adjustable bar to set the blade to a 'zero' position. Then I'll slide the fence with the spacer clamped to it to touch the end of the bar and I have my cut set up.

tomsalwasser · Post by **tomsalwasser** » Fri Apr 08, 2011 11:00 am

Underdog wrote:I confess, I've always cut wood as shown in the picture.

Me too. That's what's so cool about this forum. I'm accustomed to working alone with little feedback. I like this place. Nice jig dasgud!

After crosscutting to rough length I ripped to width. I remembered this quick and dirty outfeed table from a handout in a Shopsmith class I took eons ago. I like it. It utilizes an extension table inserted backwards to make it clear the work table. This allows floating tables to be set up for outfeed.

Best,
Tom

algale · Post by **algale** » Fri Apr 08, 2011 11:51 am

dasgud wrote:I made this table saw gauge a couple of months ago [ATTACH]12572[/ATTACH]

Nice jig! I've gotta ask: how did you make that fluted knob?

dasgud · Post by **dasgud** » Fri Apr 08, 2011 12:05 pm

algale wrote:Nice jig! I've gotta ask: how did you make that fluted knob?

Thank you and thanks for asking. I'll make a new thread to describe that. I started to write an article on the whole project for my website, but I got distracted and never finished it. Too many important things to get done.

JPG · Post by **JPG** » Fri Apr 08, 2011 2:37 pm

Underdog wrote:I confess, I've always cut wood as shown in the picture.

If I'm following this correctly, what I should be doing is using some sort of spacer between the work piece and the fence so that as the work piece slides forward it is no longer in contact with the fence as it passes through the blade?

If that's the case, how do you accurate measure between the fence and the teeth of the blade? I've always run a measure directly between the two. Should I be measuring my spacer, adding that width to my desired measurement, and then setting the fence to that "new" measurement???

YES!............. Make sure the workpiece completely clears the spacer prior to contacting the blade.

Realize the fence is a 'rip' fence. It is not intended to be used for crosscutting. It can be, but that is a hazardous operation due to the possibility of 'kick back'. Same 'problem' when simultaneously contacting the fence and a sled/miter gauge.

Underdog · Post by **Underdog** » Fri Apr 08, 2011 3:23 pm

dasgud,

I must be a little slower than others here, as I'm not following how the jig is used to measure distance to the fence. Maybe because the whole "use a spacer against the rip fence" is a new concept to me. It sure is pretty. Just not sure how it is used.

So... what is it about a rip cut that makes it safe to run along the fence that isn't safe for a cross cut? Is it because it is the wood against the fence is the portion that gets fed into the saw blade (as opposed to feeding the wood into the blade by pushing on the side that is not against the fence? But how is that different than feeding a cross cut into the blade by pushing the wood that is between the fence and the blade?

Can you tell I'm a bit confused? Eager to learn a safer way, as I've been starting to teach my kids to use the equipment and I'd rather teach them well...

Thanks.