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I had a difficult time removing the dead center morse taper from the tailstock. It had not been in the tailstock more than a week. Should they be lubricated?

In a word NO. The morse taper should not be lubricated. If it gets stuck again it can be removed by placing the tailstock casting on a couple of 2X4's on a workbench so the point is off the bench and the casting is supported. Place a block of wood over the live center and hit it with a sharp blow from a hammer to dislodge the taper. Do not strike the taper with a hammer directly.
Bill V

artfuldodger wrote:I had a difficult time removing the dead center morse taper from the tailstock. It had not been in the tailstock more than a week. Should they be lubricated?

JPW(original) - thin - well buffed out. It will still tend to 'jam' if it is pressed. That is their purpose. Wedge in, then will not rotate.

When my dead center gets stuck, I partially insert my 5/32 allen wrench in the hole in the side of the dead center and gently rotate it back and forth; works every time.

artfuldodger wrote:I had a difficult time removing the dead center morse taper from the tailstock. It had not been in the tailstock more than a week. Should they be lubricated?

No, don't lubricate it...it won't fit tightly enough to not rotate and/or stay put. But do keep it clean. It doesn't like rust or other dirt on it or it will be tough to remove. And avoid getting dings or bumps in the surface. I will also make it more difficult to remove.

I would suggest you remove it after each use, wrap it in a clean cloth, and store it where it won't be damaged by other tools.

Most machines that use a morse taper have a method of driving it out from the opposite end.

I did remove it resting it on 2x4's although i whacked it with a rawhide hammer. I did think about putting something in the hole as i figured that must be what it's for. I did put JPW on it before starting this thread so i'll make sure it's all removed and clean. I'll start removing it and storing it wrapped from now on.

artfuldodger wrote:I did remove it resting it on 2x4's although i whacked it with a rawhide hammer. I did think about putting something in the hole as i figured that must be what it's for. I did put JPW on it before starting this thread so i'll make sure it's all removed and clean. I'll start removing it and storing it wrapped from now on.

I do not think the waxing contributed to its sticking. Pressure is what 'jams' them.

artfuldodger wrote:I did remove it resting it on 2x4's although i whacked it with a rawhide hammer. I did think about putting something in the hole as i figured that must be what it's for. I did put JPW on it before starting this thread so i'll make sure it's all removed and clean. I'll start removing it and storing it wrapped from now on.

Since you are using the dead center, you should know that inserting a tapered tool like a punch into the hole is the way to remove the point. Watch that you don't drop the point on to concrete.

I think I am way in the minority because I prefer the dead center to the live one. It is less bulky and runs just as smooth as the live one. A bit of beeswax on the point and rim allows free wood rotation.

I remove my center by light taps with a 6 oz. metal ball pein hammer. Sometimes a twist heps. Although I've read I'm not supposed to do this rapping while the tailstock is on the machine, have had no issues at all in 10 years or so.

Hi;
As long as storage was mentioned I will tell how I store my stuff. I use old pill bottles which can be obtained in various sizes from friendly drug stores. They have tops that fit tightly and are practically air tight. I don't have rust on the drive center or either of my two live centers. I keep my extra saw arbors in plastic containers from eye glass cleaning kits. I can put three arbors in one tube but the lids are only press fit but they have been doing a good job of keeping things clean.
Bill V

Removing MT2 things from the tailstock 'socket'. I grasp the center/adapter and while pulling slightly and simultaneously pushing against the 'socket' rap the back with a mallet. The pushing against the 'socket' keeps the rapping from stressing the socket's retaining screw and pulling on the center/adapter allows the MT2 thing to drop into your hand.

Secret is to initially only press it in enough to keep it from rotating as you use it. The chuck adapter needs firmer pressure than the centers.

I agree with Chuck! The larger size of the live center can get in the way. Also with a dead center, the tendency to really press too firmly is eliminated.