Shopsmith Forums

I’m a cheap old b******. This system is almost foolproof, and costs far less than others.
The green monsters are 1 5/8X1 5/8 perforated Unistrut sections. Buying them at my electrical wholesale house, each 36” clamp costs ten bucks, plus the bolts and washers. In a larger city, the cost may be even less.
Pictured are clamps using 4” bolts and washers, used as cauls to insure flatness in the glue up. When face gluing, I use 5” or 6” bolts.
Shorter lengths of Unistrut are used for veneer pressing.
The maximum thickness of a glue up is limited only by the length of the bolts used.
Not as elegant as others, but, as I said…I’m Cheap!
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This next picture shows the method Unistrut uses to accept the bolts. The "nut" is captured by the Unistrut lip. A spring under the "nut" holds it in place. since the bottom piece is perforated also, I laid in a strip of hardboard to keep the spring from entering the perforation.
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[quote="Gene Howe"]Not as elegant as others, but, as I said…I’m Cheap!

GREAT IDEA!!!:)

Nothing wrong with being fiscally responsible and certainly nothing wrong that I can see with that clamping idea. I'm convinced that many people on woodworking forums are just gadget heads and their real hobby is spending money on tools and gadgets.

This is why I like this forum, lots of creative people willing to share creative and inexpensive solutions to wood working problems. Thanks for this contribution Gene.

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Cool stuff! Let us know what the secret project is, too!

At my work-place, the Tight-A## purchasing dept. used to always buy "Precision Wipes" tissues.

judaspre1982 wrote:Hi Gene
Great idea!! Great use of material/hardware.
You should see if they have the sliding nuts like the ones in this pic

I show the two types I can get in my area. They stay captured in the the strut and slide easily the length of the rail. The ones with the spring can be a pain to slide in the strut.

You can also use 7/8 in deep Uni-Strut to cut down on weight and price of the strut. 7/8 is still very solid and a little less expensive in my area.

I use Unit-Strut often to hang HVAC-R equipment.Very rugged stuff.

Dave

Hi Dave,
I thought about the 7/8 deep strut. I was concerned about how stiff they would be. A lot of pressure can be applied, and on a wider glue up, would the 1/8 be stiff enough, you think? 7/8 would sure be lighter. These things are HEAVY when you've got two together.
The nuts for mine are rectangular and eased at opposite corners so they can be inserted and turned to catch the lip.
You are right, The springs can be a royal PITA. But, with the depth of my strut, it's the only way to keep the nut in place. If the perforations are lined up on yours, I guess there'd be no impediment to a long bolt. That's why I have the washers. So the bolts don't bottom out on the piece of hardboard.

nuhobby wrote:Cool stuff! Let us know what the secret project is, too!

At my work-place, the Tight-A## purchasing dept. used to always buy "Precision Wipes" tissues.

The glue ups are for a series of mirror frames to be cut out using the old style, free standing OAR.
Here's a pic of a couple of the templates.
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Gene Howe wrote:I’m a cheap old b******.

OK Gene, I'll accept that you may be cheap, but I'm not buying the rest of it.

For the rest of you, I've met him and he's someone anyone would want as a friend.

As for the clamping idea, good one Gene, I can definitely use it. Thanks!

Paul M

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