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Saw blade not square with table

Posted: Mon May 23, 2011 3:30 pm
by fretgrinder
Hi

I'm a new subscriber but I've been using a Shopsmith Mark V series B, now for maybe 10yrs with minimal maintenance. I use it to build and invent things from furniture, loudspeakers to electric guitars. I purchased it used from an individual. I have lots of maintenance issues, my table isn't square to the blade and my jointer needs sharper blades and the bandsaw just needs lots of work. First I need to start with table square issue.

Lately I've noticed that my saw blade does not seem square with the table. I can't rip much over 3/4" stock and I've noticed that as the lumber clears the blade the back side of the blade seems to take a little extra leaving an unsquare edge, sort of like its pressing in more than the leading edge. (even though my fence is square to the table)

I've confirmed this hunch by placing a straight edge on the blade and scribing marks on the table edges. I get a difference of a 1/16" total between front table edge and back table edge. This seems to vary with how the locks are set or not set. I don't over tighten them but they do squeak when moved. I'm sure its not a tilt issue but rather a skew issue.

Is there an adjustment I can make to make the blade more square with the table. (is it in the carriage/head locks). I use a 12" square to check my table fence. Then adjust the fence (the OEM fence) as needed to keep it square with the table. Also this presents problems when I use the unit as a drill-press with a Wagner "Safe-T-Planer" to do leveling of laminations that won't fit through a planer, the overlaps leave divots. Again the table doesn't seem square to the quill.

I'm not sure what keywords I need to use to search the forum. Can someone help me ID my problem or provide links so I can start maintenance.

Thanks

Posted: Mon May 23, 2011 3:49 pm
by JPG
Start here. You do not need a fancy gauge. A rod(or 5/32" hex wrench ) and the miter gauge will eliminate that 1/16".

http://www.shopsmithacademy.com/SS_Archives/SS101/SS101_Alignment.htm

Posted: Mon May 23, 2011 4:01 pm
by mrhart
Welcome to the forum sir.

Do whatever JPG said, he doesn't know flour from a flower, but he's great with Shopsmith stuff :D

Posted: Mon May 23, 2011 4:04 pm
by JPG
mrhart wrote:Welcome to the forum sir.

Do whatever JPG said, he doesn't know flour from a flower, but he's great with Shopsmith stuff :D
So I suppose you think that prairie grass called wheat is a flower???

Posted: Mon May 23, 2011 4:11 pm
by mrhart
JPG40504 wrote:So I suppose you think that prairie grass called wheat is a flower???
It's not??

Posted: Mon May 23, 2011 8:00 pm
by dlbristol
This is why this forum grows and is used so much. Great question, gets a good precise and workable answer, references to a great source and then the fun begins! and all it took was one word!!!!:) Thanks guys!

Posted: Mon May 23, 2011 10:57 pm
by beeg
Here's some help on sharpening the jointer knives. For AFTER ya get the table squared up.

What's going on with the bandsaw?

Posted: Mon May 23, 2011 11:06 pm
by charlese
fretgrinder wrote:Hi...

Lately I've noticed that my saw blade does not seem square with the table. I can't rip much over 3/4" stock and I've noticed that as the lumber clears the blade the back side of the blade seems to take a little extra leaving an unsquare edge, sort of like its pressing in more than the leading edge. (even though my fence is square to the table)...

Thanks

After you get your table square to the blade - - if that situation ever happens again, just put the rip fence on the other side of the blade. That will let you finish the ripping you started. Then you can again align the table to the blade.