Shopsmith Forums

I am wondering the best way to use Shopsmith's molder package as it is a fearsome catapult.

The most important thing is
ALWAYS TAKE SHALLOW CUTS!!!

Use either a stop collar or adjustable stop collar to set the final molder knife position. It may take a number of passes and lowering of the table to reach the final profile.

Obviously it depends on the amount of material being removed by the molder, but would one consider a maximum of 1/4 inch per pass?

Molding Wood Surfaces not edges

Use the main fence as your reference point.
Use at least 2 T-nut spring hold-downs created from the miter gauge as per Nick's jig (See below) and a feather board.

Are the plastic feather boards robust enough or should we be creating stronger ones?
This should prevent and wood being launched across the room if something happens.

Use another fence the other side of the wood to help guide the wood and it will also provide more hold-down and feather board positions.

Finally use the push block with firm downward pressure not excessive to feed the wood through the molder.

Do not stand directly behind the wood, but to one side to ensure if you get kickback you will not be hit.

The reason for the extra fence and the spring hold downs is safety.

Does all this sound reasonable, is it overkill or is there a better method?

The hold-down jigs are here https://forum.shopsmith.com/viewtopic.php?t=5422

Hope this make sense.

Corob Molder Knives

One other thing the Corob knives purchased directly from Corob do not seem to fit the Shopsmith molder wheel as stated by Corob's website.

They do have a more extensive range of knives and shapers.

Could somebody please confirm this and has anybody used a Corob molder wheel.

It would appear to be similar to the Shopsmith's. A direct comparison would be useful.

I have about 80% of the Shopsmith molding knives and almost all the shapers due to a recent sale in the UK. It is more from curiosity that I am asking, although the ability to have a greater number of possible profiles is always seductive.

Are the Corob knife profiles the same as the equivalent Shopsmith ones? As they both appear to be made by Corob.

It would make it easier to use their profile charts to construct moldings and their measurements as per their individual cutter images. (See Below)

http://corobcutters.com/images/products ... id-BW6.pdf

Pure 'opinion':

1/4: cut depth MAY be acceptable if the profile is narrow. A wider cut would dictate a shallower cut.

IMHO an extra fence MAY create a more difficult control access situation.

Also MHO that if the plastic feather boards are NOT stout enough then too aggressive cutting is being attempted.

Never dealt with 'carob'.

You are wise to proceed cautiously!!!!;)

Having launched my share of wood from the molder catapult I say use a push blocks, be sure to use push blocks, be extra certain to use push blocks, and don't try to use the molder without using push blocks. POINT MADE????

Also the stop collar or adjustable collar is a must. I have more than once in my zeal to make sure the wood is firmly on the table actually made the table slip down which causes it to take too much of a cut. Wood goes sailing and I standing there thankful that the push block that just got molded was not my hand. Of course I have to quit woodworking as I have to go in and change my pants.

On did I mention make sure you use push blocks. One thing with a moulder unlike a saw there is nothing left to sew back on if you oops it. USE PUSH BLOCKS.

Better yet go buy the wood already molded or buy a molder/planer. You end up with a lot less soiled pants that way.

Ed in Tampa wrote:Having launched my share of wood from the molder catapult I say use a push blocks, be sure to use push blocks, be extra certain to use push blocks, and don't try to use the molder without using push blocks. POINT MADE????

Also the stop collar or adjustable collar is a must. I have more than once in my zeal to make sure the wood is firmly on the table actually made the table slip down which causes it to take too much of a cut. Wood goes sailing and I standing there thankful that the push block that just got molded was not my hand. Of course I have to quit woodworking as I have to go in and change my pants.

On did I mention make sure you use push blocks. One thing with a moulder unlike a saw there is nothing left to sew back on if you oops it. USE PUSH BLOCKS.

Better yet go buy the wood already molded or buy a molder/planer. You end up with a lot less soiled pants that way.

Well Put! Methinks you got the point across!:D

P.S. I was not trying to scare him S***less!

Thanks for your replies guys.

Don't need to worry I'm not scared just respectful.

Thats why I said use push block, firm pressure and multiple passes.

Featherboards and hold-downs to help with safety.

Time is less important than SAFETY.

JPG40504 wrote:Well Put! Methinks you got the point across!:D

P.S. I was not trying to scare him S***less!

JGP
I wasn't trying to scare anyone. I was trying to warn him of something I never considered. I had used tablesaw molding heads many times in the past, but always on a tablesaw. I too saw or heard about incidents where someone tried to cut too much or didn't have full control of the wood. I was trained by one of the best but I was trained on a normal stationary equipment.

However when I used the molding head on my SS for the first time I learned some lessons that can only be learned on the SS.

I mounted the molding head cutter and turned it by hand to make sure all clearances were correct.

I double checked all hex nuts were tight. I turned the SS on well out side the line of fire. Adjusted the speed. Took a tentative cut in a scrape piece of wood.

Made all my final adjustments. Double checked all the SS locks. Got my wood to be molded out and began my cut. Everything was perfect. I stopped and checked my progress and decided that perhaps my hands were too close even with the push stick I was using. I decided I would have better control of everything with a jointer push blocks.

I got them out and began again after double checking all my locks. When I had checked my progress I noticed a slight ripple in the cut. I figured it was vibration of wood on the table. So I really leaned on the wood to make sure it did not bounce.

Started my cut and everything was fine.

I had gone about 15 inches and all sudden BAM!

There was bit of wood and pushblock shooting all over my shop, and in my right hand I was no longer holding a jointer push block. Instead I was holding a handle with nothing attached.

I immediately turned off the SS went into the house to change my pants and after I got myself settled down I went out to investigate exactly what happened.

The moulder head had one bent cutter, odd I thought.

When I finally fished enough of the pieces together I saw in the wood the cut had gradually gotten deeper and deeper until finally it hit something in the wood and it literally exploded.

What had happened was the main table height adjustment even though it was tight, it slipped as I pushed down on the table gradually increasing the depth of cut.

This is something that can't happen on a tablesaw and was something I never in my wildest dreams ever thought of.

I then tried duplicating the problem but with the SS turned off. I found that properly locked the main table is basically locked into position. Locked that is until enough pressure is put on it to move.

Too much locking pressure and you will damage the support tubes or break the casting but even pressure up to the point of just before doing damage the table wil move if enough down force is applied to it.

Had I not switched to the jointer push blocks I believe I would be without my right hand today.

I learned a lot about the Shopsmith that day and none of it made me like doing moulding on the SS.

Today if I use the molder head on the SS (which I do very relucantly) I use the locking collar and hold down jigs instead of trying to hold it myself.

My accident could have happened to anyone that never knew the main table will slip down if enough pressure is applied.