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Ok, I have a client that hired me to refinish a simple rectangle solid teak table. She requested teak oil for a finish. I stripped and sanded down to good color, and applied Watco teak oil 4 times, as directed on the lable. I waited 72 hrs. for it to dry completely. She wanted a piece of glass to put on top, but the edges are radiused, to the glass would either hang over, or be shorter than the highest point of that radius. Cutting off the radii, and squaring the edges, is not an option. So, my question is, can I safely apply pre-cat lacquer, or a quality polyurethane over the teak oil? Seems boat guys do it all the time, but I wasn't sure about a breakfast table. Any takers? Thanks, Y'all. jimsjinx

Jim,

I can't answer you finishing question, but a long time ago (before kids) we bought a high end coffee table and end tables. They had cut-off corners. We had a local glass shop cut glass to fit the tables. Since the customer wants glass I would check with some glass shops in you area. They should be able to cut a piece of glass to your specifications w/radiused corners, but it could be a bit pricey. They should also be able do whatever it is they they do to remove the sharp edges, and should provide some pads so the glass doesn't sit directly on the wood.

Sincerely,

Ron309753

I would like to suggest that you not put the glass directly on top of the wood. Moisture can be trapped that will eventually disfigure the wood. And if a liquid is spilled at the edge, capillary action will draw it into the seam. And the final reason is that the glass may stick to the finish causing a problem if the glass is removed (or even moved).

Check with your local glass company. They have round button stand-offs that keep the glass off the wood and allow slight air circulation. Better safe than sorry

The old "stuck to the glass" scenario has been explained to the client. The 3/4" raduis is on the EDGE of the table. Where as in a table with squared edges, you can get the glass cut to be flush with the edge. The radius makes the decision whether to have the radius exposed, or enough glass hanging over to be flush with the high point of the radius. So my suggestion was to apply a good finish and forget the glass. She's lookin at around $300 for glass with a beveled edge. My fear is, the edge chipping if it hangs over, flush with the radius' high point. Am I making any sense? LOL jimsjinx

jimsjinx wrote:The old "stuck to the glass" scenario has been explained to the client. The 3/4" raduis is on the EDGE of the table. Where as in a table with squared edges, you can get the glass cut to be flush with the edge. The radius makes the decision whether to have the radius exposed, or enough glass hanging over to be flush with the high point of the radius. So my suggestion was to apply a good finish and forget the glass. She's lookin at around $300 for glass with a beveled edge. My fear is, the edge chipping if it hangs over, flush with the radius' high point. Am I making any sense? LOL jimsjinx

Yes! Overhang bad! Beveled expensive! How about half or quarter beveled? That would eliminate the square sharp corner on the top periphery, but if not full depth of the glass it should cost less. Polished bevel - $$$$$!.

Then there is lexan...

jimsjinx wrote:So, my question is, can I safely apply pre-cat lacquer, or a quality polyurethane over the teak oil? Seems boat guys do it all the time, but I wasn't sure about a breakfast table. Any takers? Thanks, Y'all. jimsjinx

I'm knot sure on this, but teak is an oily wood. I've read somewhere that ya have to wipe the piece down with mineral spirits first, then apply your coating. You may want to start with a coat of shellac.

The label states to coat it after 72 hrs with any finish. Boat guys, I thought, usually brush on spar varnish or polyurethane on top of teak oil. Teak oil is very similar to clear stain base. It does dry pretty hard. I just wanted to know if any boat guys had any tips. jimsjinx

I have successfully put poly over regular Watco oil. I haven't used the Teak oil, but I would guess that it has similar properties. Just be sure to wait at least 72 hours for it to cure.

Hello all.

I would go to a glass place and get some prices. I have gone with the glass approch a while back. I keep the edges of the wood exposed and keep the glass on the table top only.

I second the Shellac over the oil. Ive done that one a few times with out any problems.

Good luck, and let us know how it turns out?

C.A.G.

Ok, silly question here, but what kind of boat? If it is a sail boat, then the teak makes sense but the glass does not as the boat rocks and could shift the glass exposing an edge which could be broken, or even throw the glass top to the floor.

I just actually finished cutting a teak shelf for my uncle. He has a 36 foot sailboat and the old teak plywood shelf was rotted out. He finished the shelf with a stain/finish all in one. It is a glossy finish and is designed for marine applications and moisture. I could not tell you the name of it. I will have to find out if needed.

Since you already have the oil on the teak, I would suggest finishing the surface. General Finishes makes some great finishes wood and they make several that are designed to eat off of. I got an oil / urethane finish for a project a while back. It goes on thin and takes multiple coats but is used for dining room tables when done right. It is not a polyurethane but oil urethane and works much differently and better in my opinion.