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Does anyone have instructions to convert a PowerPro to 220 WITHOUT cutting the end of the cord. I would still like to be able to use it on 110 sometimes. Mike said there was some kind of box with a 110 female plug and a 220 male plug.

I was wondering if any of the European plug converters would work?

Any ideas are welcome.

paulmcohen wrote:Does anyone have instructions to convert a PowerPro to 220 WITHOUT cutting the end of the cord. I would still like to be able to use it on 110 sometimes. Mike said there was some kind of box with a 110 female plug and a 220 male plug.

I was wondering if any of the European plug converters would work?

Any ideas are welcome.

Some one poster but I can not find it an inline adapter to do what you want.

I don't think you can buy one already made as this probably violates every electrical code in the book - Plugs are different shapes and configurations so that you don't plug into the wrong voltage or amperage.

That being said, I made my own adapter. I used a Wiremold box, (which is designed to be surface mounted on a wall). I mounted this on the leg of my Mark V, and connected a length of #12 extension cord with a 220v plug on the end. I used a romex cable clamp out of the back of the box to act as a strain relief.

A much simpler solution is to take a length of #12 extension cord and connect a 220v plug on one end and a 110v socket on the other. I opted for the box, as I wanted the connection to be off the floor. (had a basement flood a few years back when the water heater blew).

michaeltoc wrote:I don't think you can buy one already made as this probably violates every electrical code in the book - Plugs are different shapes and configurations so that you don't plug into the wrong voltage or amperage.

That being said, I made my own adapter. I used a Wiremold box, (which is designed to be surface mounted on a wall). I mounted this on the leg of my Mark V, and connected a length of #12 extension cord with a 220v plug on the end. I used a romex cable clamp out of the back of the box to act as a strain relief.

A much simpler solution is to take a length of #12 extension cord and connect a 220v plug on one end and a 110v socket on the other. I opted for the box, as I wanted the connection to be off the floor. (had a basement flood a few years back when the water heater blew).

The challenge, if you are not an electrician, is to chose which wires are used for the 110VAC connection and which to use for the 220VAC connection. Since this is not to code, there could be a shock hazard. In a proper 220VAC service run, there is no safety ground (green wire).

This hazard can be reduced by introducing a green wire (to ground) or connecting the safety ground to a conduit that is properly grounded.

I don't think you'jj find any DIY instructions for making a 220/110 adaptor.

I got an email that Dusty responded, but the post is not showing up here, so I will address his concerns.

A typical 110v circuit has 3 wires: Hot, Neutral, and Ground. Current flows between the Hot and Neutral. Although the neutral is essentially "grounded" at the service panel, it is a current carrying wire, and must be separate from the ground. The ground wire does not (normally) carry current, and is there for safety purposes.

A typical 220v circuit also has 3 wires: Hot, Hot and Ground. There is no Neutral. Current flows only between the two Hot wires (which are of opposite polarity, or phase). The third wire is a safety ground.

If you want to connect the PowerPro to 220v using a "cheater" cord the only essential thing is that the two ground pins be connected. The plug or receptacle will use green screws for the ground connection. A 110v receptacle will have a brass or a "gold" screw for the Hot and a "silver" screw for the neutral. A 220v plug will have only 2 brass screws. It does not matter which brass screw on the 220v plug is connected to the silver screw on the 110v receptacle.

If I've throughly confused you, then "kids, don't try this at home"

michaeltoc wrote:I got an email that Dusty responded, but the post is not showing up here, so I will address his concerns.

A typical 110v circuit has 3 wires: Hot, Neutral, and Ground. Current flows between the Hot and Neutral. Although the neutral is essentially "grounded" at the service panel, it is a current carrying wire, and must be separate from the ground. The ground wire does not (normally) carry current, and is there for safety purposes.

A typical 220v circuit also has 3 wires: Hot, Hot and Ground. There is no Neutral. Current flows only between the two Hot wires (which are of opposite polarity, or phase). The third wire is a safety ground.

If you want to connect the PowerPro to 220v using a "cheater" cord the only essential thing is that the two ground pins be connected. The plug or receptacle will use green screws for the ground connection. A 110v receptacle will have a brass or a "gold" screw for the Hot and a "silver" screw for the neutral. A 220v plug will have only 2 brass screws. It does not matter which brass screw on the 220v plug is connected to the silver screw on the 110v receptacle.

If I've throughly confused you, then "kids, don't try this at home"

You caught me!:rolleyes: I posted and then decided that I did not want in this discussion and deleted my post.

http://www.shopsmith.net/forums/showpos ... tcount=104

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haven't done it, do your own research, <insert disclaimer here>, ...

In the pix above, notice both the plug and receptacle. Both are 20A devices. Both have one blade 'horizontal' and one blade 'vertical'. The positioning of the blades is reversed. This is the type of voltage/current rating distinctions Michaeltoc was describing. Notice the 230v plug will not mate with the 115 receptacle(blade positioning is reversed). Also a 115v plug will not mate with a 230v receptacle.

However a 115v 15A plug will fit into that 115v 20A receptacle(blades are both 'vertical'). The reverse is not true!

A 230v 15A plug has both blades 'horizontal' and will mate with the 230v receptacle. The reverse is not true!

20A receptacles are designed to accept either 20A or 15A plugs.

15A devices are easier to find and are much less expensive.

Regarding codes, that is the reason these are called cheater cords. However today many appliances are 'multi-voltage compatible' and are not adequately addressed in the 'code'. Some use plugable cords that have different plugs in the input end. My computer power supply also works on 12v DC and the power cord has 5 pins on the 'brick' end.

So: Make a cheater cord with a 115v 15a inline receptacle and a 230v 15A plug. #14 is large enough. Keep it short(6" to a foot).

All voltage numbers mentioned above(115v, 230v) may be 120/240 on the devices you find. Actual voltages in my area are typically 125/250v measured at the source.

If the word receptacle bothers you substitute 'outlet'. More descriptive would be female.


P.S. See post #4 for wiring 'instructions'.


Paul: A european 'plug' converter will only work if you install a european receptacle in your USA house.

I just found this adapter for $6 and it looks to me like it will work does anyone see any issues?

paulmcohen wrote:I just found this adapter for $6 and it looks to me like it will work does anyone see any issues?

That adapts UK devices. It is much larger that the US 230v plug. It adapts to other european devices and UK 'versions'. Going from memory here! In any event - No it will not do what you want/need.

You do not have a plug that will fit into the receptacle end.