Shopsmith Forums

How would I check my quill out for wobble?

I want to make sure that the quill is not making my 2" deep holes wider than they should be.

thanks

The only way I know is to use a dial indicator. Runout is usually only a few thousandths of an inch, so you really cannot check it visually.

Without an indicator, if the runout is excessive, you may be able to do a visual check using a straightedge. In drill press mode raise the table or extend the quill so that the round part of the bit is at the table level. Place a straightedge on the table touching the bit. Hold it firmly, and rotate the quill by hand. If the bit stays in contact with the straightedge you may be ok. If the runout is excessive, the bit will touch the straightedge, then move away from it at the opposite side of rotation.

I don't know how much wobble you are experiencing but if the holes that are being drilled are noticeably oversized you have a problem.

Use a 1/4" drill to drill a hole. Take the bit out of the chuck and insert the shank into the hole that you just drilled. It should be a firm fit.

Bote: All of this while assuming the hole is being drilled at a 90° angle. Even at an angle, the fit should be firm but the hole will not appear to be round.

farley wrote:How would I check my quill out for wobble?

I want to make sure that the quill is not making my 2" deep holes wider than they should be.

thanks

This video might help you decide how you want to set up for a run out test, farley.

thanks Dusty

what is the name of that tool you were using?

When extended, the quill on my SS has some slop where quill meets headstock. There is no slop when the quill is retracted or locked.

More of a minor irritation than a problem to me as it needs external influence for the slop to happen. If the work stays clamped while bits are changed I have no problem as there's nothing to pull the bit off line.

I was doing 4" holes in 1/2" ply with an adjustable hole cutter which meant flipping the work as it had trouble cutting half way, smokey workshop lol. Once the work was flipped over, I had to be careful that the pilot bit part of the hole cutter entered the previously drilled hole exactly. If it didn't, the quill would move sideways enough to make up the difference.

In practice, it took about 15 seconds to centre the work by repeatedly extending the pilot bit into the work (SS off) until it was spot on. Squeeze the work clamps, check it's still centred, power on and drill.

farley wrote:thanks Dusty

what is the name of that tool you were using?

The gauge that you saw there is a Dial Gauge. Shopsmith sells that very one (555884) for about $65.00. Similar dial gauges are readily available on line.

They are also known a dial indicators. Harbor Freight has them for 14.99. You may also need a mounting base for the dial indicator and Harbor Freight sells a magnetic base for about the same price. While it won't stick to your aluminum table, you could simply clamp it in place. One will simplify adjusting/positioning the dial indicator.

Note that the $65 SS gauge includes many extras like miter slot mount and a slew of different tips.

P.S. They be $70 now! http://www.shopsmith.com/ownersite/catalog/mvlt_dialindicator.htm