Planer Upgrade Project
Posted: Tue Jul 26, 2011 11:20 pm
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This is a work in progress - updates are color coded:
Edited 7/27
Edited 7/29
No color - see bottom of post for first installment on the upgrade. This is 70% of the upgrade of the motor setup, with pictures to follow. PLEASE DO NO NOT START ANY UPGRADE ON BASED ON THIS INFORMATION YET. FEEDBACK WOULD BE GREATLY APPRECIATED!
Terms of Use: This information is provided free of charge as long as you don't use it for profit. Contact me if you need clarification or would like to use this information for other uses.
Disclaimer: Every effort has been made to make this information as accurate and error free as possible. Use at your risk - I assume no liability and your use constitutes agreement that you hold me harmless. Do not do anything that you feel uncomfortable with, that makes you feel that you are putting yourself or others at risk, or that is beyond your skill level.
Goals:
1. Upgrade the feed motor speed control with better performance at all speeds using PMW, better motor protection, the ability to set high and low speeds, add reverse to better remove jams without changing adjustments, and add electrical protection for the controller.
2. Upgrade the motor to get better reserve power, the ability to easily get replacement parts, and add in thermal protection directly on the motor.
3. Additionally I want to calibrate the speed control so that I know exactly what the feed rate is.
4. Parts and design will accommodate conversion to 220V should I ever have to replace the main motor.
To do this, the modifications will center around
1. Removing the old controller from the control box while retaining the speed control in this box.
2. Adding a 3 way switch for reverse control in the old box.
3. Adding a circuit breaker after the switch.
4. Adding a separate controller box ($30) underneath the feed motor containing a Minarik XL3025 controller (cost - $25 plus shipping), a surge protector, add 2 pole circuit breaker (bypass single pole fuse in Minarik controller - more safety and allows 220v operation), and perhaps a fan for cooling.
5. Upgrading the feed motor to a Bodine 32A3BEPM DC gear motor (cost $100 including shipping). This is an obsolete but easily found motor that is robust and easy to repair. It has an extra power and torque so that it is unlikely to overheat unlike the stock motor. The screw pattern is the same as stock, but it will require a new gear, enlarging the housing opening a bit, and the addition of a new gear.
Quick update:
1) Even though the motor is rated at 1/12 hp it is way more powerful with the Minarik controller than the stock setup at lower speeds. I set the lower speed at where the motor was just turning over and I cannot stall it by hand like I could the stock setup.
2) The original controller was acting a bit flaky so I purchased one from a local outfit (freedom*resources) on Ebay. Nice guy and I got a good deal since it's a buy it now with make an offer. I won't say how much I get it for, but you can get it much less than the $45 advertised.
PART 1 - MOTOR UPGRADE
Comparison of the Bodine and Shopsmith gearmotors
The Bodine motor is a 1/12 hp motor vs. the Shopsmith’s 1/20 hp. They both use the same bolt pattern, but the Bodine’s shaft is longer and thicker. This necessitates changing the spur gear, adding a stiffening/spacer plate, and changing to longer screws to attach the motor. The Bodine motor also has better quality materials and machining, much larger and easier to replace brushes, and heavier wiring. The one negative to the Bodine motor is that it sticks out further than the Shopsmith motor. Note that a newer version of the Bodine motor is available for roughly $330, which is interesting since you get more hp and a better motor than the more expensive Shopsmith motor; replacement parts are also available.
Upgrade Parts
1) Bodine 32A3BEPM-Z2 Gear Motor ($59 used from Ebay). I understand that this motor is now obsolete and there is a replacement for this motor 33A3BEPM-Z2 with permanently lubricated gearbox. There are several motors in this line so make sure you get the right one!) The key parameters from this motor are that it is more robust and better built than the original motor, the hole pattern is the same. However, the shaft is longer and wider than the original. The only negative is that the motor sticks out further than the original. Note that the brushes and bearings were in good shape so they weren’t replaced. See below for pictures and a comparison of the motors, and modifications needed to do the upgrade.
2) TS2022 Spur Gear from Martin. ($19.73 from Motion Industries) This is a steel spur gear that replaces the original spur gear and fits the larger motor shaft and locking design.
3) Cantherm F20A Thermostat ($6.56 from Digikey). This thermostat adds thermal protection to the motor. It opens at 70 degrees Centigrade, and is resettable. Should the controller fail or the ambient temperature is very high the thermostat protects the motor from overheating and potentially burning the windings or cracking the permanent magnet.
4) 3 Pin Circular connector P Series 5 Pin Electric Circular Connector AC 500V ($4.03 from Ebay). This connector is listed both here and on the controller part list since half goes on the motor power cable and half goes on the controller.
5) Mobil SHC 600 Gear Oil ($17.16 from USE-Enco.com). Since the motor was used, it was thoroughly cleaned and the oil replaced. Note the original oil was Chevron 220.
6) Enco Multipurpose Lithium Grease ($6.03 from USE-Enco.com). There is now a mix of aluminum and steel gears – this lubrication helps prevent wear and damage.
7) ?? screws x ??
8) Odds and ends – electrical part cleaner and part solvent since this is a used motor, silicone sealant, sheet of 1/8” aluminum to make the spacer, black paint for the spacer and touch up, heat shrink, and eye connector.
Here are the steps to do the motor upgrade (assuming a used motor):
1) Disassemble the upgrade motor by removing the two long bolts. Check that there is no burning of the windings and that the magnet is not damaged. Also check that the brushes are in good shape and replace them if needed
2) Blow out any residual brush dust. Check that the bearings are good and replace if necessary.
3) Open the oil plugs and clean out the gearbox with solvent. Replace the plugs. Note that you might need to change where the fill plug is located so that it is on top of the motor. Otherwise is will leak. Do not refill until later.
4) Clean the motor cap and the attached brushes with electrical cleaner. In the next steps the thermostat will be installed and it’s much easier with a clean cap. Take the screw to the grounding wire out and move the wire out of the way. Use a socket wrench to remove the plate holding the brushes. Remove the hot lead by screwing out and gently take the eye connector off the hot wire (black wire).
5) Connect the power lead to one lead of the thermostat by solder and cover with heatshrink, and put an eye connector on the other lead of the thermostat; an alternative is to put a bullet connector on the hot lead. The eye connector on the thermostat is then screwed into the brush contact.
6) Now, reassemble the plate into the motor by putting the thermostat under one of the screws that holds the plate in place and putting the other screw in. In my case I replaced the screw with a slotted screw with a narrow head so that it would fit the temperature sensor. The leads should be measured ahead of time so that things fit neatly with the thermostat under the plate screw, the brushes can seat properly, and the stator can turn without hitting anything.
7) Install the motor cap on the body of the motor. Be careful to either retract the brushes as the two go together. The brushes can be removed first and replaced later as an alternative. Line the two up so that the through bolt can go in easily. Then put the gearbox on the other end and put in the through bolts. Note that the orientation of the gearhead must match up with the original feed motor mounting plate and the bolt with the oil hole is on the top.
8) Remove the feed gear cover and remove the bolts holding the original motor in place.
9) Enlarge the hole in the original gear cover to fit the upgrade feed motor; it won’t take much. Cut a spacer out of the 1/8” aluminum sheet and put holes for the screws and motor shaft using the original gear cover as a template. Paint things up to make it look nice.
10) Use 1/8” longer bolts to attach the feed motor to the motor cover with the spacer sandwiched between the two.
11) Install the new spear gear on the feed motor shaft. It will take some fiddling to get the depth on the shaft set so that it is centered on the two outside gears mounted on the rollers.
12) This is a good time, if you haven’t already, to check to see that feed rollers and their brass bearings are in good shape and replace them if needed. I took this opportunity to replace the original roller gear nuts with some quality SS nylocs. Check to make sure that the rollers and attached gears as well as the motor all turn freely with no binding.
13) Put a layer of grease on all gears.
14) Use Silicon to seal around the planer head after making sure that everything is clean and the sealer will work properly. This will make sure that dust and shavings will not come in and foul the gears. The Silicon can easily be removed if needed to work on the planer head. Make sure it’s dry before proceeding.
15) Assemble the gear cover with the feed motor to the planer.
16) Fill the gearbox with new gear oil.
You are now ready to connect the controller, test operation, and calibrate th
This is a work in progress - updates are color coded:
Edited 7/27
Edited 7/29
No color - see bottom of post for first installment on the upgrade. This is 70% of the upgrade of the motor setup, with pictures to follow. PLEASE DO NO NOT START ANY UPGRADE ON BASED ON THIS INFORMATION YET. FEEDBACK WOULD BE GREATLY APPRECIATED!
Terms of Use: This information is provided free of charge as long as you don't use it for profit. Contact me if you need clarification or would like to use this information for other uses.
Disclaimer: Every effort has been made to make this information as accurate and error free as possible. Use at your risk - I assume no liability and your use constitutes agreement that you hold me harmless. Do not do anything that you feel uncomfortable with, that makes you feel that you are putting yourself or others at risk, or that is beyond your skill level.
Goals:
1. Upgrade the feed motor speed control with better performance at all speeds using PMW, better motor protection, the ability to set high and low speeds, add reverse to better remove jams without changing adjustments, and add electrical protection for the controller.
2. Upgrade the motor to get better reserve power, the ability to easily get replacement parts, and add in thermal protection directly on the motor.
3. Additionally I want to calibrate the speed control so that I know exactly what the feed rate is.
4. Parts and design will accommodate conversion to 220V should I ever have to replace the main motor.
To do this, the modifications will center around
1. Removing the old controller from the control box while retaining the speed control in this box.
2. Adding a 3 way switch for reverse control in the old box.
3. Adding a circuit breaker after the switch.
4. Adding a separate controller box ($30) underneath the feed motor containing a Minarik XL3025 controller (cost - $25 plus shipping), a surge protector, add 2 pole circuit breaker (bypass single pole fuse in Minarik controller - more safety and allows 220v operation), and perhaps a fan for cooling.
5. Upgrading the feed motor to a Bodine 32A3BEPM DC gear motor (cost $100 including shipping). This is an obsolete but easily found motor that is robust and easy to repair. It has an extra power and torque so that it is unlikely to overheat unlike the stock motor. The screw pattern is the same as stock, but it will require a new gear, enlarging the housing opening a bit, and the addition of a new gear.
Quick update:
1) Even though the motor is rated at 1/12 hp it is way more powerful with the Minarik controller than the stock setup at lower speeds. I set the lower speed at where the motor was just turning over and I cannot stall it by hand like I could the stock setup.
2) The original controller was acting a bit flaky so I purchased one from a local outfit (freedom*resources) on Ebay. Nice guy and I got a good deal since it's a buy it now with make an offer. I won't say how much I get it for, but you can get it much less than the $45 advertised.
PART 1 - MOTOR UPGRADE
Comparison of the Bodine and Shopsmith gearmotors
The Bodine motor is a 1/12 hp motor vs. the Shopsmith’s 1/20 hp. They both use the same bolt pattern, but the Bodine’s shaft is longer and thicker. This necessitates changing the spur gear, adding a stiffening/spacer plate, and changing to longer screws to attach the motor. The Bodine motor also has better quality materials and machining, much larger and easier to replace brushes, and heavier wiring. The one negative to the Bodine motor is that it sticks out further than the Shopsmith motor. Note that a newer version of the Bodine motor is available for roughly $330, which is interesting since you get more hp and a better motor than the more expensive Shopsmith motor; replacement parts are also available.
Upgrade Parts
1) Bodine 32A3BEPM-Z2 Gear Motor ($59 used from Ebay). I understand that this motor is now obsolete and there is a replacement for this motor 33A3BEPM-Z2 with permanently lubricated gearbox. There are several motors in this line so make sure you get the right one!) The key parameters from this motor are that it is more robust and better built than the original motor, the hole pattern is the same. However, the shaft is longer and wider than the original. The only negative is that the motor sticks out further than the original. Note that the brushes and bearings were in good shape so they weren’t replaced. See below for pictures and a comparison of the motors, and modifications needed to do the upgrade.
2) TS2022 Spur Gear from Martin. ($19.73 from Motion Industries) This is a steel spur gear that replaces the original spur gear and fits the larger motor shaft and locking design.
3) Cantherm F20A Thermostat ($6.56 from Digikey). This thermostat adds thermal protection to the motor. It opens at 70 degrees Centigrade, and is resettable. Should the controller fail or the ambient temperature is very high the thermostat protects the motor from overheating and potentially burning the windings or cracking the permanent magnet.
4) 3 Pin Circular connector P Series 5 Pin Electric Circular Connector AC 500V ($4.03 from Ebay). This connector is listed both here and on the controller part list since half goes on the motor power cable and half goes on the controller.
5) Mobil SHC 600 Gear Oil ($17.16 from USE-Enco.com). Since the motor was used, it was thoroughly cleaned and the oil replaced. Note the original oil was Chevron 220.
6) Enco Multipurpose Lithium Grease ($6.03 from USE-Enco.com). There is now a mix of aluminum and steel gears – this lubrication helps prevent wear and damage.
7) ?? screws x ??
8) Odds and ends – electrical part cleaner and part solvent since this is a used motor, silicone sealant, sheet of 1/8” aluminum to make the spacer, black paint for the spacer and touch up, heat shrink, and eye connector.
Here are the steps to do the motor upgrade (assuming a used motor):
1) Disassemble the upgrade motor by removing the two long bolts. Check that there is no burning of the windings and that the magnet is not damaged. Also check that the brushes are in good shape and replace them if needed
2) Blow out any residual brush dust. Check that the bearings are good and replace if necessary.
3) Open the oil plugs and clean out the gearbox with solvent. Replace the plugs. Note that you might need to change where the fill plug is located so that it is on top of the motor. Otherwise is will leak. Do not refill until later.
4) Clean the motor cap and the attached brushes with electrical cleaner. In the next steps the thermostat will be installed and it’s much easier with a clean cap. Take the screw to the grounding wire out and move the wire out of the way. Use a socket wrench to remove the plate holding the brushes. Remove the hot lead by screwing out and gently take the eye connector off the hot wire (black wire).
5) Connect the power lead to one lead of the thermostat by solder and cover with heatshrink, and put an eye connector on the other lead of the thermostat; an alternative is to put a bullet connector on the hot lead. The eye connector on the thermostat is then screwed into the brush contact.
6) Now, reassemble the plate into the motor by putting the thermostat under one of the screws that holds the plate in place and putting the other screw in. In my case I replaced the screw with a slotted screw with a narrow head so that it would fit the temperature sensor. The leads should be measured ahead of time so that things fit neatly with the thermostat under the plate screw, the brushes can seat properly, and the stator can turn without hitting anything.
7) Install the motor cap on the body of the motor. Be careful to either retract the brushes as the two go together. The brushes can be removed first and replaced later as an alternative. Line the two up so that the through bolt can go in easily. Then put the gearbox on the other end and put in the through bolts. Note that the orientation of the gearhead must match up with the original feed motor mounting plate and the bolt with the oil hole is on the top.
8) Remove the feed gear cover and remove the bolts holding the original motor in place.
9) Enlarge the hole in the original gear cover to fit the upgrade feed motor; it won’t take much. Cut a spacer out of the 1/8” aluminum sheet and put holes for the screws and motor shaft using the original gear cover as a template. Paint things up to make it look nice.
10) Use 1/8” longer bolts to attach the feed motor to the motor cover with the spacer sandwiched between the two.
11) Install the new spear gear on the feed motor shaft. It will take some fiddling to get the depth on the shaft set so that it is centered on the two outside gears mounted on the rollers.
12) This is a good time, if you haven’t already, to check to see that feed rollers and their brass bearings are in good shape and replace them if needed. I took this opportunity to replace the original roller gear nuts with some quality SS nylocs. Check to make sure that the rollers and attached gears as well as the motor all turn freely with no binding.
13) Put a layer of grease on all gears.
14) Use Silicon to seal around the planer head after making sure that everything is clean and the sealer will work properly. This will make sure that dust and shavings will not come in and foul the gears. The Silicon can easily be removed if needed to work on the planer head. Make sure it’s dry before proceeding.
15) Assemble the gear cover with the feed motor to the planer.
16) Fill the gearbox with new gear oil.
You are now ready to connect the controller, test operation, and calibrate th