Shopsmith Forums

Any opinions on the SS Mortising attachment? Only found one review online and it was not very positive.

In looking at the setup, I am concerned that the table may not have the ability to hold up against the pressure exerted by the mortise chisel without some deflection.

I think you are right about the table deflection. I have heard that those that use it for mortises support the table with a 2x4 to reduce or eliminate the deflection. I have never used it but it appears to me that if the deflection problem is eliminated, it should work just fine.

You have to set it up with proper bracing for lack of a better term, then it works fine. I use 2 of the adjustable legs to hold the outboard side of the table steady, I also put a block under the carriage to keep it from drifting down the way tubes. In one of the sawdust sessions, Nick shows how to set it up.

As long as you set it up properly it does a great job.

Sharp chisel Sharp chisel Sharp chisel. . .

JPG40504 wrote:Sharp chisel Sharp chisel Sharp chisel. . .

Was there a Sawdust session which addressed how to do this?

BPR

Just my experience with mortise machines in general, has been that, unless you have a pretty high quality machine, it's still hard work making square holes with these things. Set up is crucial, as not enough spacing between the bit and the chisel will result in a burned and bent chisel and bit. Too much, and the chisel is too far ahead of the bit, and chips get too thick, and plug up the chisel, resulting in the same burned and or bent chisels/bits. You still have to use a hand chisel to clean up the mortise in most cases. The physical energy needed to plunge the chisel into the wood is suprising, even with a honed chisel. The expensive machines do a better job, although any machine can be set up well, it's the energy needed to do the actual plunging that tells you you got it right. I know from the mortises I have done with a dedicated machine, it always took alot of arm power, and that is indeed tranferred to your table/work platform. I would brace my SS very well befor I'd subject my machines to that kind of hard work. I think the mortising machines in the 2-300 dollar range are barely effective. The big setups are great, and light years more accurate, keeping hand chisel parring to a minimum. I like the old Delta accessory that goes on a good floor drill press. Not too expensive, built well, and if set up on a decent drill press with good chisels they work darned good. JMHO jimsjinx

ryanbp01 wrote:Was there a Sawdust session which addressed how to do this?

BPR

Cone shaped rotary stone.

My two cents is to avoid it. I have one. I had okay luck with pine but could get it to work in cherry. I used extra supports to prevent table deflection. I was pretty damn careful about set-up and sharpening. I use a router now if I have several or the old drill + chisel method if there are only a couple.