Shopsmith Forums

I've been reading the thread started by Dusty, "Speed Tenon"......

There were a couple of folks expressing concern about feeding stock into the side of the blade taking THIN slivers off. I built a TV cabinet a couple of years ago and did some feet for the cabinet that required a cove cut down the length of a 6/4 x 6" piece of hard maple. I followed the procedure demonstrated by Nick in Sawdust Session 21. I also used the stop collar to drop the table 1/16" per pass (works like a charm, by the way). The blade I used is a full kerf Freud combination blade with a tooth configuration of "The groups of five teeth include one flat tooth for ripping, followed by four alternate top bevel teeth for crosscutting". The flat tooth helps to keep the cove smoother than what you would get if using a blade with only ATB teeth.

Anyway, following the 1/6" cut depth per pass, my 510 worked like a charm and I can see no warping or damage of any kind to the blade. It worked so well, I'm going to do the same procedure for feet on the current bookcase project. I would be a little more cautious about using this procedure with a thin kerf blade.....maybe move the board through a little slower.

Here's the different stages of the process I used. The 2 boards I ran through were actually a little over 3' long. The short piece in the first pic is just an example.

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Nice work, Bud.

But I now have a request. Please start another thread and explain how you cut the miters to form the corners of the legs.

In the image you posted, that miter appears to be a compound miter.

dusty wrote:But I now have a request. Please start another thread and explain how you cut the miters to form the corners of the legs.

In the image you posted, that miter appears to be a compound miter.

Thanks, Dusty....it was a fun project.
The back side of the feet/legs are at right angles to each other and also a right angle to the case. The appearance of a compound miter in the pic is misleading.

I had to think for a few minutes to remember how I did the 45s.....Finally remembered that I tilted the bandsaw table to 45....was VERY careful to get it exact..... and used the miter gauge. I tried a few cuts on my compound miter saw, but got more acccurate results on the bandsaw. (That was before I got my Wixey;) )

[quote="bffulgham"]Thanks, Dusty....it was a fun project.
The back side of the feet/legs are at right angles to each other and also a right angle to the case. The appearance of a compound miter in the pic is misleading.

I had to think for a few minutes to remember how I did the 45s.....Finally remembered that I tilted the bandsaw table to 45....was VERY careful to get it exact..... and used the miter gauge. I tried a few cuts on my compound miter saw, but got more acccurate results on the bandsaw. (That was before I got my Wixey]Thank you for the feedback.

I assume you had a Shopsmith when you did this project. Is there a specific reason for why you cut the miters with a bandsaw? Was it a safety measure?

I wonder how many of use have a Delta Shopmate. I'm thankful I have one of the old ones. I don't think the newer ones are as good. Mine came out of the garbage. It has a slightly bent leg. Replacement legs are available but I have now put mine on wheels.

dusty wrote: I assume you had a Shopsmith when you did this project. Is there a specific reason for why you cut the miters with a bandsaw? Was it a safety measure?

Yep, I had the 510 at the time. The bandsaw is a SS that I bought in the 80s with the power stand....way before I had the 510.

Yes, sir....a safety measure. The one thing that scares me with the 510 is making cuts with the table angled where off-cuts can fall toward the spinning blade. The only time in my life I've been damaged by kick-back was on my Yuba RAS doing a beveled rip cut when the off-cut dropped on the blade, kicked back, and peeled a fingernail off. So, I'm gun shy on that front.