Sawdust Session #7
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paulmcohen
- Platinum Member
- Posts: 1577
- Joined: Fri Dec 08, 2006 8:10 pm
- Location: Beaverton, Oregon
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Thanks, OK so I removed the quill and it is a two bearing one (yea). The quill looks new, bearing spins easily but the gear the quill engages with does not look in good shape. The gear has several bright spots and it looks like some pieces missing. Is this gear difficult to change, everything seems to work but getting the quill to engage is very difficult.
Paul Cohen
Beaverton, OR
A 1982 500 Shopsmith brand upgraded to a Mark 7 PowerPro, Jointer, Bandsaw (with Kreg fence), Strip Sander, Ring Master and lots of accessories all purchased new
12" Sliding Compound Mitre Saw, 1200 CFM DC
Beaverton, OR
A 1982 500 Shopsmith brand upgraded to a Mark 7 PowerPro, Jointer, Bandsaw (with Kreg fence), Strip Sander, Ring Master and lots of accessories all purchased new
12" Sliding Compound Mitre Saw, 1200 CFM DC
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paul heller
- Gold Member
- Posts: 288
- Joined: Thu Jul 20, 2006 7:41 pm
- Location: Arvada, CO
I think I missed something. Does anyone have a link to this document?paulmcohen wrote:The URL for the Quill Maintenance procedure is broken.
The link is http://www.shopsmithacademy.com/SS_Arch ... enance.pdf
Paul
http://www.shopsmithacademy.com/SS_Arch ... enance.pdf. The full url, in case the server truncates my copy-over, is "www.shopsmithacademy.com/SS_Archives/SS ... enance.pdf."
With all good wishes,
With all good wishes,
Nick Engler
http://www.workshopcompanion.com
http://www.workshopcompanion.com
Quill Feed Shaft Replacement
Go to the following web site. It is very valuable for adjustments.
http://www.allinonewood.com/?page=shop/serviceadvisor
Click on #11 : How to Replace the Quill Spring (415kb)
When removing the quill feed shaft step #11, I use a smaller rod to push the shaft all the way out and catch the cone shaped washer other wise it may fall into the motor pan. You will have to turn the quill feed shaft until the key that holds the quill feed sleeve is on the bottom so the key can pass throught the cone washer. I leave the smaller rod in place and use the quill feed shaft with the key down to push it back out insuring the cone washer goes onto the quill feed shaft.
Bill Mayo
http://www.allinonewood.com/?page=shop/serviceadvisor
Click on #11 : How to Replace the Quill Spring (415kb)
When removing the quill feed shaft step #11, I use a smaller rod to push the shaft all the way out and catch the cone shaped washer other wise it may fall into the motor pan. You will have to turn the quill feed shaft until the key that holds the quill feed sleeve is on the bottom so the key can pass throught the cone washer. I leave the smaller rod in place and use the quill feed shaft with the key down to push it back out insuring the cone washer goes onto the quill feed shaft.
Bill Mayo
paulmcohen wrote:Thanks, OK so I removed the quill and it is a two bearing one (yea). The quill looks new, bearing spins easily but the gear the quill engages with does not look in good shape. The gear has several bright spots and it looks like some pieces missing. Is this gear difficult to change, everything seems to work but getting the quill to engage is very difficult.
Did anyone else notice the difference between advise given in Nick's post #23 and Bill's post #24?
Nick's pdf says as a caution "Do not tighten the quill lock. This will damage parts"
In the information offered through Bill's post by All-In-One Wood Tools (removing the quill- #14) tells you to tighten the quill lock after removing the quill.
I think Sawdust session #7 answered the difference. Both ways will work!
Nick's pdf says as a caution "Do not tighten the quill lock. This will damage parts"
In the information offered through Bill's post by All-In-One Wood Tools (removing the quill- #14) tells you to tighten the quill lock after removing the quill.
I think Sawdust session #7 answered the difference. Both ways will work!
Octogenarian's have an earned right to be a curmudgeon.
Chuck in Lancaster, CA
Chuck in Lancaster, CA
Quill Lock
Since being previously advised (forums) not to tighten the quill lock, I find the Feed Stop can be locked to prevent the quill spring from totally unwinding after removing the quill. If the quill spring is allowed to completely unwind, any CCW rotation of the quill feed shaft will allow the spring to become unhooked. I have gotten real good at removing and rehooking the quill spring for customers who have allowed the quill spring to unwind completely to where the spring become unhooked.
If I find that there is any play between the quill housing and the headstock, I do overtighten the quill lock, recheck the play and repeat until the quill housing is a snug fit in the headstock again. I do this to most headstocks I repair and service. I never have damaged any parts doing this but would not recommend this action for any customer to attempt.
The knowledge of knowing how much pressure and/or where to hit is learned from many past mistakes when I did not know.
Bill Mayo
If I find that there is any play between the quill housing and the headstock, I do overtighten the quill lock, recheck the play and repeat until the quill housing is a snug fit in the headstock again. I do this to most headstocks I repair and service. I never have damaged any parts doing this but would not recommend this action for any customer to attempt.
The knowledge of knowing how much pressure and/or where to hit is learned from many past mistakes when I did not know.
Bill Mayo
charlese wrote:Did anyone else notice the difference between advise given in Nick's post #23 and Bill's post #24?
Nick's pdf says as a caution "Do not tighten the quill lock. This will damage parts"
In the information offered through Bill's post by All-In-One Wood Tools (removing the quill- #14) tells you to tighten the quill lock after removing the quill.
I think Sawdust session #7 answered the difference. Both ways will work!