Shopsmith Forums

Found this on Craigslist being sold together with an old generator for $50. The owner offered to split the deal and sell the SS for $25, and I jumped on it.

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The parts were so rusty, it took me two hours to disassemble the thing using PB blaster, sandpaper, and gentle persuasion.

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All of the parts appear salvageable to me, but we'll see how it goes.

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I still have one way tube stuck to the powerhead.

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I plan to rebuild it as a semi-permanent jigsaw/accessory stand.

v/r,

Rick

chipmaster wrote:Found this on Craigslist being sold together with an old generator for $50. The owner offered to split the deal and sell the SS for $25, and I jumped on it.

[ATTACH]15019[/ATTACH]

The parts were so rusty, it took me two hours to disassemble the thing using PB blaster, sandpaper, and gentle persuasion.

[ATTACH]15020[/ATTACH]

All of the parts appear salvageable to me, but we'll see how it goes.

[ATTACH]15021[/ATTACH]

I still have one way tube stuck to the powerhead.

[ATTACH]15022[/ATTACH]

I plan to rebuild it as a semi-permanent jigsaw/accessory stand.

v/r,

Rick

Bad as it looks, you still 'stole' it!
It'll clean up!:)

Yep it will clean up real nice! You got a heck of a steal!

You do understand the drain pipe(s) and evaporust procedure for the way tubes! And electrolysis rust removal for much of the rest.

I've seen where people used plumbing pressure test fittings to chuck up their tubes for turning. I've also seen some electrolysis threads but haven't made up my mind whether it's worth setting the whole rig up for that. Evaporust I'll have to look up. Thanks!

v/r,

Rick

Got the base looking pretty good. Yes, I am so cheap that I reused the old boards and even the old hardware. I knocked the gray off the boards with a belt sander and clear-coated them, and I like the rustic-looking result. The casters and shoes are a busted-up Harbor Freight movers' dolly ($9.99). They don't lock, so they're not a permanent solution, but they'll keep the project mobile.

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I sandblasted the legs. Most of the metal was in great shape except in this one corner. If I ever learn to weld I'll go back and fix this. Seems strong as is; I put my whole weight on it and it didn't flex.

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Next step is to sandblast and paint the tube supports. Then I'll tackle the really hard part: the tubes.

JPG - I looked at your post about the drain pipes again and now I'm thinking you meant something different from what I thought previously. Do you mean insert the tubes in a PVC pipe to give them an Evaporust bath?

v/r,

Rick

chipmaster wrote:Got the base looking pretty good. Yes, I am so cheap that I reused the old boards and even the old hardware. I knocked the gray off the boards with a belt sander and clear-coated them, and I like the rustic-looking result. The casters and shoes are a busted-up Harbor Freight movers' dolly ($9.99). They don't lock, so they're not a permanent solution, but they'll keep the project mobile.

[ATTACH]15273[/ATTACH]

I sandblasted the legs. Most of the metal was in great shape except in this one corner. If I ever learn to weld I'll go back and fix this. Seems strong as is]15274[/ATTACH]

Next step is to sandblast and paint the tube supports. Then I'll tackle the really hard part: the tubes.

JPG - I looked at your post about the drain pipes again and now I'm thinking you meant something different from what I thought previously. Do you mean insert the tubes in a PVC pipe to give them an Evaporust bath? YES

v/r,

Rick

Something squirrelly re yer attached pix. NEVER MIND, THEY BE OK NOW. SS SERVER UPCHUCKING OFTEN TODAY! bENCH BOARDS LOOK GOOD!

JPG40504 wrote:Something squirrelly re yer attached pix. NEVER MIND, THEY BE OK NOW. SS SERVER UPCHUCKING OFTEN TODAY! bENCH BOARDS LOOK GOOD!

It seems that there might be a problem developing with image transfer on the forum. I have had problems, on and off, over the last couple weeks.

What I don't understand is that once an image has transferred completely, that image seems accessible from then on. First time transfers seem to take a long time.

chipmaster wrote:I've seen where people used plumbing pressure test fittings to chuck up their tubes for turning. I've also seen some electrolysis threads but haven't made up my mind whether it's worth setting the whole rig up for that. Evaporust I'll have to look up. Thanks!

v/r,

Rick

Rick,
Recently I got a Mark V that had been sadly neglected. It was rusted almost beyond belief, and I doubted it's resurrection potential, but I just couldn't let the guy sell it to the scrappers for the aluminum and steel in it.
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Like yours, it took me awhile just to get it apart enough to put in my little convertible and get it home, and then more time unfreezing everything (like the chuck that was stuck, and the plug bit that was stuck in the chuck). The tubes were HORRIBLE:
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I tried the PVC tubes and Evaporust approach. It did OK, but not as I had hoped, and I didn't want to spend more on Evaporust than I did on the unit ($80) so I opted for plan #2, spin-and-sand.

Having once before tried to find a freeze plug, with no success (apparently the big stores and even the pool suppliers don't think you need freeze plugs this far south), I decided to be creative and come up with my own solution.

I turned two tapered plugs with 3/8" holes predrilled thru them and bought a six foot piece of threaded rod. After putting one plug in each end, running the rod thru the middle and double nutting the ends, I chucked it up in my Jacobs chuck, support the tail end and started sanding. It worked GREAT!!

If I remember tomorrow, I'll dig out my "jig" and take pictures but it's really nothing more than two "holey" wooden corks.

Evaporust is not going to magically turn badly pitted tubes into pristine ones. Same can be said for electrolysis, but judging from MickyD's experience, I believe electrolysis is better for those so badly rusted.

Regardless of which 'rust removal' method is used, polishing is a given. The purpose of the 'rust removal' is to eliminate as must of the rust as possible while NOT removing unrusted metal. The purpose of polishing is to create a smooth surface for parts sliding.

The trick is to stop when 'smooth enough' and not try to bore down to the bottom of the pitts.

Smaller parts are more conducive to the evaporust since they can be put in a jar and left until they are 'ready'.

The pipe method ala Evaporust is simpler from a space needed and stuff rigged up standpoint than the electrolysis method.

Electrolysis works well on sheet metal(and also removes paint simultaneously!

Evaporust takes longer on badly rusted parts than electrolysis, but both methods leave a thin black oxide residue which comes off easily.



BTW You are BOTH doing good!