Shopsmith Forums

rather a "how do I" or, perhaps more accurately, a "I gotta do it this way, right?" kinda question.

Working on a dedicated bench for my mini-lathe. Thought it would be handy to mount a grinder with lathe tool jigs next to it (instead of walking across the shop to dress an edge), and was thinking I could use one of the old belt-drive heads I've got along with one of the motors lying around. For two reasons; 1. it'll be cheap since I've got most of the parts already, and, 2. belt drive means slower speed, better chance of getting an edge without burning the steel.

This is the back side of the grinder after pulling off all the bits and pieces:
[ATTACH]15291[/ATTACH]

As best I can figure, in order to put a new belt on it, I am going to have to pull the shaft thru one of the side bearings to get the belt over the pulley. The only alternative would be to buy one of those chain link belts but that kinda gets away from my basic cheapass approach to things.

My concern is that pulling the shaft will possibly do in one or both old bearings. Any opinions?

The link belts are about $25 at Harbor Freight. I'm cheap, too, but I'd pay that before messing with pulling bearings. Good luck!

v/r,

Rick

chipmaster wrote:The link belts are about $25 at Harbor Freight. I'm cheap, too, but I'd pay that before messing with pulling bearings. Good luck!

v/r,

Rick

That's exactly the thought that has been running thru my head today. Well, that and how to make sure it slows down and not speed it up (i.e. pulley sizes)

The link belt helps reduces vibration too. The Shopsmith motor with the motor sheaves compressed will over speed most grinding wheels which could give bad results. The motor shaft is 5/8" so I use a steel (not cast, with link belts) 2" pulley which can be keyed (1/8" or wider) or just a set screw seated in the key slot (1/8") with the key removed. I use the 6" white grinding wheel. There are many ways to attach the motor. I try to keep the motor shaft parallel to the mounting surface.

Not recommended by me, but I have removed the spring and washer, shorten the key and used a 5/8" ID collar with set screw to allow the motor sheaves to separate to where it gives the me the desired output RPM.

Additional information can be found at http://www.kestrelcreek.com/Articles/Grinding_Wheel.htm