Derek (aka fibertech) asked this question in an earlier post (his first to this forum) and I feel that it can be better answered by the forum than by me so I have created a separate post.
Derek's question: When I push the levers down on the rip fence, I lose my setting. Can it be explained how to make the fence square and keep it that way? I have checked and have the main shaft well within tolerences.
This might help: http://www.shopsmith.com/ownersite/prod ... adePkg.pdf
My 520 was created by installing the upgrade kit onto a 510. The 520 fence came to me prealigned and I have not had to mess with it at all. That is why I am turning this over to the forum for discussion without comment.
The rip fence on my 520 is one of the features that makes me so satisfied with my Shopsmith. There is no reason why you, derek, can not be equally satisfied. The members of this forum will do that for you, I am sure.
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520 Rip Fence Alignment
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dusty
- Platinum Member
- Posts: 21481
- Joined: Wed Nov 22, 2006 6:52 am
- Location: Tucson (Wildcat Country), Arizona
520 Rip Fence Alignment
"Making Sawdust Safely"
Dusty
Sent from my Dell XPS using Firefox.
Dusty
Sent from my Dell XPS using Firefox.
I have had the same thing happen with mine. I am assuming that your fence is square to the table when it is "levers down".
What I found is that the with the levers up, the fence is not held square against the rails. When you move it to line it up, it goes out of square temporarily, then when you tighten the levers it pulls square again and moves from the measured settings.
Try pushing the base on the front of the fence tight against the rail as you line it up to take your measurement. That will hold it square to the table. Then when you tighten the lever, it will remain lined up and square and shouldn't move from the measured line. Sometimes you need three hands.
Let us know if that helps.
JeffG
What I found is that the with the levers up, the fence is not held square against the rails. When you move it to line it up, it goes out of square temporarily, then when you tighten the levers it pulls square again and moves from the measured settings.
Try pushing the base on the front of the fence tight against the rail as you line it up to take your measurement. That will hold it square to the table. Then when you tighten the lever, it will remain lined up and square and shouldn't move from the measured line. Sometimes you need three hands.
Let us know if that helps.
JeffG
Well, I have had the same problem since day 1. I took my fence to a class and tried it on Rick Davis' table. Lined up like a charm. Now if I push real hard when lining it up, she might stay, but there is too much wiggle. Rails are parallel, but......now what?mandoboy wrote:I have had the same thing happen with mine. I am assuming that your fence is square to the table when it is "levers down".
What I found is that the with the levers up, the fence is not held square against the rails. When you move it to line it up, it goes out of square temporarily, then when you tighten the levers it pulls square again and moves from the measured settings.
Try pushing the base on the front of the fence tight against the rail as you line it up to take your measurement. That will hold it square to the table. Then when you tighten the lever, it will remain lined up and square and shouldn't move from the measured line. Sometimes you need three hands.
Let us know if that helps.
JeffG
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dusty
- Platinum Member
- Posts: 21481
- Joined: Wed Nov 22, 2006 6:52 am
- Location: Tucson (Wildcat Country), Arizona
520 Rip Fence Alignment
Keep in mind that the rip fence simply clamps down on the rails. When you push the rip fence in against the front rail or when you clamp the lower lever all you are doing is positioning the rip fence with respect to the front rail.
The theory being that miter slots are 1) parallel to the blade, 2) perpendicular to the rail and 3) the rail is straight, 4) the fence is straight.
If you can confirm these four items, the fence should result in the cut that you want.
The upper lever secures the outfeed end of the fence in the position that is caused by pushing the lower lever down. The upper level haves little, if anything, to do with aligning the fence (it only locks the fence in the position previously established).
Check this out: http://www.shopsmith.net/forums/showthr ... ght=bosses
Hope this helps!:)
The theory being that miter slots are 1) parallel to the blade, 2) perpendicular to the rail and 3) the rail is straight, 4) the fence is straight.
If you can confirm these four items, the fence should result in the cut that you want.
The upper lever secures the outfeed end of the fence in the position that is caused by pushing the lower lever down. The upper level haves little, if anything, to do with aligning the fence (it only locks the fence in the position previously established).
Check this out: http://www.shopsmith.net/forums/showthr ... ght=bosses
Hope this helps!:)
"Making Sawdust Safely"
Dusty
Sent from my Dell XPS using Firefox.
Dusty
Sent from my Dell XPS using Firefox.
This was a minor problem when I first did the upgrade to my 500. It was a serious problem before the upgrade. I remembered Rick Davis saying to push the fence against the rail. Then I remembered watching him. He would push the fence against the rail, partially lock the lower clamp, partially lock the upper clamp, then complete the sequence by locking the clamps tightly.
That sequence worked well for a while. Then I realized that locking was getting hard to complete and the force required to fully lock the lower clamp would move the fence.
Used a little beeswax on the cams of the locks. Problem solved. Added item to my maintenance list.
That sequence worked well for a while. Then I realized that locking was getting hard to complete and the force required to fully lock the lower clamp would move the fence.
Used a little beeswax on the cams of the locks. Problem solved. Added item to my maintenance list.
Jim in Bakersfield:D