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Saving old equipment (not SS)
Posted: Thu Dec 29, 2011 4:48 pm
by fiatben
I have an old Craftsman tablesaw that I picked up for $30 at an auction last summer. I've taken it apart, cleaned it all up, lubed and adjusted everything and it actually works. But, it doesn't run smooth. So today I pulled it back apart and want to replace the bearings.
Here's the main shaft with one of the bearings still on, which I need to remove, which is why I'm asking here (because I really don't participate in any of the antique tool forums).
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and here's the problem:
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The key is really stuck. I can't begin to imagine that it was machined into the shaft, but is just a stuck key. So my question is; any good ways to get this out with marring the shaft with pliers, pryers and other tools??
Posted: Thu Dec 29, 2011 5:05 pm
by pennview
Use a propane torch and apply some heat and it should come out fairly easily with a small hammer and screwdriver/punch/chisel. Apply some heat, give it some light taps, if it doesn't come loose, give it a bit more heat, more taps, etc., etc., till it comes out.
Posted: Thu Dec 29, 2011 5:36 pm
by Culprit
I would submerge it in Evaporust for a day or two before using the heat method to remove the rust. It will get down in the cracks to loosen things up.
good ideas
Posted: Thu Dec 29, 2011 7:04 pm
by fiatben
Sounds good, guys. It'll go into Evaporust tomorrow and on Saturday I'll find my propane torch and see what happens. Meanwhile, time to cross-ref the old bearings and get new ones, clean up the shaft, relube other parts and maybe splurge on a new belt. I think it would be useful to have a dedicated table saw in my shop along with the 510 and 500 when I need multiple set-ups on a project.
Posted: Thu Dec 29, 2011 8:37 pm
by JPG
fiatben wrote:Sounds good, guys. It'll go into Evaporust tomorrow and on Saturday I'll find my propane torch and see what happens. Meanwhile, time to cross-ref the old bearings and get new ones, clean up the shaft, relube other parts and maybe splurge on a new belt. I think it would be useful to have a dedicated table saw in my shop along with the 510 and 500 when I need multiple set-ups on a project.
That looks like it might be a woodruff key(half moon shape/round bottom). Drive it up and towards the bearing from the end of the shaft. I would use a cold chisel to get it started, then something less sharp. A new key should be easy to obtain at a good hardware store.
Posted: Thu Dec 29, 2011 11:38 pm
by robinson46176
I prefer using a round-nose / half-round chisel for woodruff keys.
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Some farm machinery uses a "LOT" of woodruff keys. Out in the field I have used a little bit of everything to get them out. On occasion I have used a pair of Vise-Grips to grab onto one extremely tightly and pull it out by tapping on the Vise-Grips with a hammer.
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Posted: Fri Dec 30, 2011 7:05 am
by tomsalwasser
fiatben wrote:I have an old Craftsman tablesaw that I picked up for $30 at an auction last summer. I've taken it apart, cleaned it all up, lubed and adjusted everything and it actually works. But, it doesn't run smooth. So today I pulled it back apart and want to replace the bearings.
Ben, I have a couple old Craftsman saws too. On a recent purchase I was unable to separate the arbor housing from the cradle, despite a lot of pounding. That did loosen it up a bit (along with some penetrating oil) and I am now able to raise and lower the blade. It's harder to turn than it should be. I guess Craftsman used the same cradle and arbor housing on all it's 113.xxxxxxx saws over several decades so I look for them on craigslist. Good saw! I love the geared fence.
Best,
Tom
Posted: Fri Dec 30, 2011 10:06 am
by JPG
robinson46176 wrote:I prefer using a round-nose / half-round chisel for woodruff keys.
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. . .
.
I think that would getterdone!:)
That looks like it could
create the keyway!:D
Who else has one!:rolleyes:
Posted: Fri Dec 30, 2011 10:33 pm
by fiatben
tomsalwasser wrote:Ben, I have a couple old Craftsman saws too. On a recent purchase I was unable to separate the arbor housing from the cradle, despite a lot of pounding. That did loosen it up a bit (along with some penetrating oil) and I am now able to raise and lower the blade. It's harder to turn than it should be. I guess Craftsman used the same cradle and arbor housing on all it's 113.xxxxxxx saws over several decades so I look for them on craigslist. Good saw! I love the geared fence.
Best,
Tom
Tom,
Yeah, I'm kinda excited to have another old tool up and running. They seem to be so much better made than the newer flimsy stuff and the price is SO much better. I expect to get the bearings next week and have it back up by the weekend.
One thing that has drove me a little crazy... I haven't been able to determine the model number. There is absolutley no ID anywhere on this thing other than a casting number in the cast iron top that isn't a Sears/Craftsman number. I've even spent time looking on the vintage tool sites and Google images, hoping to see a familiar face.
Here's mine: (freshly home from the auction back in May)
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Apparently, from looking at hundreds, almost all of them had a round crank handle in the front, as well as other differences. (Of course, as I sit here it just occured to me that possibly my crank was replaced with the current handle, but I think this handle is original.) From all my searching around, the best I can come up with is that it was probably built in the early '60s and might be a 113.299120. And getting a manual online has been a dry run. Although, I found a guy about 100 miles away today (another woodworker) that has that manual, just still not sure it's really my machine.
Good thing it is a fairly straightforward piece of equipment. I'm pretty confident (after rebuilding SS's) that I can put it together and get it all alligned and then see if I can wear it out over the next few decades.
I agree
Posted: Fri Dec 30, 2011 10:35 pm
by fiatben
JPG40504 wrote:That looks like it might be a woodruff key(half moon shape/round bottom). Drive it up and towards the bearing from the end of the shaft. I would use a cold chisel to get it started, then something less sharp. A new key should be easy to obtain at a good hardware store.
I think you're exactly right, JPG. I just think it's really wedge over a half-century of use. Of course, the second part of that is the really tricky part as there aren't any good hardware stores left in these parts.