Shopsmith Forums

Yes, I said fuse, not breaker... My father was a professional electrician during the late 1940's and early 1950's. He wired the new west wing and rewired the rest of the house about 1974 and he used fuses rather than breakers. He was just "comfortable" with fuses...
While it is "safe" I will be replacing the main inside panel as much for convenience as anything plus I want to split some stuff up differently and do away with some sub-panels. I say "inside panel" because out on the meter pole there is a big breaker panel with big breakers for branches which include:
House main
House auxiliary
Well pump (so you can have water with house power killed in a fire)
Farm buildings (At this location. There are 3 services on the farm)
2 barns, a big bin and 2 other out buildings each have their own main boxes fed on this "Farm" branch.
There is almost no #14 wire in this house. There are some short lines that run from a junction box to a ceiling fixture in the old part of the house and a couple of switch legs in that part. Otherwise every thing is #12 except for a few #6, #8 and #10 feeds to sub-panels. Everything in the east wing (where the shop is going in) is #12.


Back to the fuse... I ran the 510 a number of times along with a shop vac as a temp DC but finally blew the fuse. The reason I blew it was that I have a standard practice of always fusing everything as light as I possibly can. While it was a 20 amp circuit I only had a 15 amp standard fuse in it. I replaced it with a 20 amp time delay fuse and it is fine now. It will probably be at least next fall before I get that main panel swapped out so I have been buying those screw in breakers that look like a fuse with a reset button on the face of it. They cost a whole lot more than a fuse but are a lot handier. I don't mind accumulating them because when I change out the house panel I will just use them in the outbuilding boxes which I will not be changing over unless something goes bad.


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I've noticed my SS will trip the breaker on my garage circuit frequently upon initial fire up, so I ran am extension coed around the garage to the dedicated "freezer" outlet and its fine. they must draw pretty good amps on start up. Wonder how that changes with the speed setting and/or an spt connection?

mrhart wrote:I've noticed my SS will trip the breaker on my garage circuit frequently upon initial fire up, so I ran am extension coed around the garage to the dedicated "freezer" outlet and its fine. they must draw pretty good amps on start up. Wonder how that changes with the speed setting and/or an spt connection?

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PZIO-cq8jik&context=C3d7c00aADOEgsToPDskKE6aPwIE2aYQwKjtBu3WCr

If you increase the mechanical load on the system ( spt, heavy disc sander,etc) you will increase the current demand on start up. That is the reason SS recommends that the machine be set to low speed when shutting it down. The other is safety. You don't want to start the machine at high speed accidently with the band saw attached.
That is one of the better features of the PP headstock. It always asks if the speed is correct if you are over 1500 RPM. The other is the start up of the PP when it ramps up to the programmed speed and eliminates much of the startup current of conventional induction motors.
Starting at high speed with a standard headstock is like trying to pull away from a stop light in a manual transmission car in second gear instead of first. Can be done, but with difficulty.
Bill V

wa2crk wrote:If you increase the mechanical load on the system ( spt, heavy disc sander,etc) you will increase the current demand on start up. That is the reason SS recommends that the machine be set to low speed when shutting it down. The other is safety. You don't want to start the machine at high speed accidently with the band saw attached.
That is one of the better features of the PP headstock. It always asks if the speed is correct if you are over 1500 RPM. The other is the start up of the PP when it ramps up to the programmed speed and eliminates much of the startup current of conventional induction motors.
Starting at high speed with a standard headstock is like trying to pull away from a stop light in a manual transmission car in second gear instead of first. Can be done, but with difficulty.
Bill V

Done easily with a 230v motor(line drop halved)!;)

P.S. I am sure that 'extra' step will become a PITA as time progresses(or a double poke automatic thus negating its purpose).

JPG40504 wrote:http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PZIO-cq8jik&context=C3d7c00aADOEgsToPDskKE6aPwIE2aYQwKjtBu3WCr

Can't watch this until not on my server at work....filter

When I finished my basement on my home I included an area for my workshop. I put in 20 amp circuits for my Mark V as well as my Shopsmith Planer. I have never had them trip but I did when I had only 15 amp circuits.