Shopsmith Forums

I'm completing a little bookshelf project for my eldest child's kitchen. It is good ole' Arkansas black walnut.

What do you use to finish walnut furniture in your shop?

I'd like it to look as natural as possible, yet durable, but I'm not sure I want the shiny look of polyurethane.

Polyurethane probably will give you the best durability, but if you don't want the plastic look that sometimes results from using glossy polyurethane, you can always try the satin variety. Or you could try something like Minwax Antique Oil finish. Another possibility is mixing something yourself like one part satin polyurethane, one part paint thinner, and 1/2 part boiled linseed oil.

With the Antique oil, you apply with rag or brush, let it set for a few minutes, and then wipe off the excess. I use Bounty paper towels to do the wiping off; Scotts rags-in-a-box also work for me. Same technique applies to the homemade mixture. Add coats till you get the finish you like. If the excess finish becomes difficult to remove because you let it set too long, simply add additional finish and wipe off. Any rags or paper towels need to be disposed of carefully -- burn, spread out carefully on a non-combustible surface to dry, placed in a metal can, covered with water, or other means to prevent spontaneous combustion.

I kinda like Butchers wax when I want a natural finish. penetrates enough, and protects add another coat and buff it up if ya want.

All the above is good advice, and on Walnut I especially avoid water-based poly, at least for the first layers. It can look white-ish, particularly on end-grain.

I tend to use the formula: [INDENT]1 part boiled linseed oil
1 part spar varnish
1 part mineral spirits

[/INDENT]for all of my projects. I got the idea from an article by Glen Huey in the April 2007 issue of Pop Wood. Huey uses turpentine instead of mineral spirits. I used spirits due to availability and cost.....seems to work fine. The boiled linseed oil makes the grain pop on whatever wood I've used it on.

Here's a link to Finishing by Flexner. He has numerous articles on this site. I also highly recommend his book Flexner on Finishing: Finally - Answers to Your Wood Finishing Fears & Frustrations

Another drawback to cost with turpentine is the smell. It takes a while for that smell to dissipate when compared to paint thinner, and I don't find it a very pleasant smell either. But, like most things, it's a personal preference.

As far as oils go, you can also use tung oil in one of these home brew mixtures. If you do, get the "pure" tung oil variety, as much of the stuff labeled "tung oil" isn't. Also when compared to boiled linseed oil, tung oil will not darken the wood quite as much, but this darkening is minor and the difference likely is only apparent on a light colored wood like curly maple.