Great to see some more projects for the shopsmith being posted!
I'll leave a few thoughts for you to consider.
The width of the insert is not critical so they can be sized with a simple rip operation. The length of the blank is not critical to start with so, a cross- cut gets that with in reason. The more accurate length can be established when the rounding is done but since the holes are the most critical they should be established first. As was mentioned a tranfer punch does a great job of this and also remember that the blanks can be ganged for drill... 4, 6, or 8 are all well with in the drill bit range. If you tape the group together you need only mark the top most one.
The 500 insert needs two rounding operations so it is a bit more work, but the 505/510/520 has only one rounded side. I like a router for this portion but it can be done on a bandsaw or even sanded to shape... again it is not all that critical so long as it fits.
I always have a piece of 2x4 or 2x6 I clamp over the insert before I lower the table and that keeps the cut clean and keeps the insert from bowing. I personal like hardboard but all most anything will work.
Now I see some people have not been doing their required reading. One of the first jig I made way back when was the spacing fixture that is designed to be used when ripping stock less then 1-1/2" wide. PTWFE 4th edition page 26. To be honest there must be forty ways but this simply show how to get the rip fence back in the picture.......
Ed
Use of Scrap Wood - Zero Clearance Inserts
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- Ed in Tampa
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Here is another idea along the lines of splitters and riving knifes.
Get an extra Shopsmith splitter part number 514367 for 510/520 and cut the top off so it is a fraction of an inch shorter than the saw blade. You now have a true riving knife that can stay on the machine for non through cuts.
Since the riving knife stays in fixed position with the blade it will never get in the way of cut and you always have the protection offered a Riving knife.
I totally sold on anything that prevents kickback and most kickback is caused by blade pinch (when the wood closes on the blade and/or when the wood hits the back of the blade. A riving knife prevents both.
Ed
Get an extra Shopsmith splitter part number 514367 for 510/520 and cut the top off so it is a fraction of an inch shorter than the saw blade. You now have a true riving knife that can stay on the machine for non through cuts.
Since the riving knife stays in fixed position with the blade it will never get in the way of cut and you always have the protection offered a Riving knife.
I totally sold on anything that prevents kickback and most kickback is caused by blade pinch (when the wood closes on the blade and/or when the wood hits the back of the blade. A riving knife prevents both.
Ed