45 angle on a wide board?

flipper · Post by **flipper** » Mon Jan 30, 2012 9:02 am

I need to rip a 45 angle on the long edge of a 1''x10''x 6'..I tilt the table to 45 degrees but can not get close enough to make the cut without the table getting right on the blade...am i doing something wrong?
thank you

dusty · Post by **dusty** » Mon Jan 30, 2012 9:06 am

flipper wrote:I need to rip a 45 angle on the long edge of a 1''x10''x 6'..I tilt the table to 45 degrees but can not get close enough to make the cut without the table getting right on the blade...am i doing something wrong?
thank you

Use the quill to relocate the blade to the center of the insert.

flipper · Post by **flipper** » Mon Jan 30, 2012 9:20 am

Hmmm! The table is not wide enough for me to use my fence and cut the 45 on the 10'' board ...i am tilting the the table to the right looking from the switch side and using the fence 10 inches from the blade.. (this is what i am trying to do) now im wondering if i should tilt the other way and move the fence right up to the blade ? by the way, i am new and inexperienced.. thanks

wa2crk · Post by **wa2crk** » Mon Jan 30, 2012 9:38 am

Flipper:
First, get some help from someone who has some experience!!
Second do not try to make this cut with the large piece uphill from the blade. Doing so causes the weight of the cut off piece to force the piece down into the blade and cause a kickback condition. From your description it sounds like you are using a model 500 which has smaller tables and does not have the extension and floating tables which makes this type of cut even more difficult.
Can you post a picture of what you are trying to do so some others here can offer some advice and possibly a method to try?
One method that I have used is to make the rip cut on a narrower piece say about 4" wide and edge glue the cut piece to the wider piece. But you said that you have limited experience, so this may not be the method for you.
Stay tuned here for more comments, they will be coming I am sure.
Bill V

dusty · Post by **dusty** » Mon Jan 30, 2012 9:57 am

flipper wrote:Hmmm! The table is not wide enough for me to use my fence and cut the 45 on the 10'' board ...i am tilting the the table to the right looking from the switch side and using the fence 10 inches from the blade.. (this is what i am trying to do) now im wondering if i should tilt the other way and move the fence right up to the blade ? by the way, i am new and inexperienced.. thanks

This can be done.

Move the headstock as far as it will go to the right.

Mount a floating table flush against the right side of the main table. This provides support for the rip fence.

Remove the table insert and extend the quill about half way (fine tune later).

Tilt the table and lower to the proper depth for the cut.

Reinstall the insert - you will likely have to use the quill to position the blade in the cutout.

Secure all the locks and turn the drive shaft by hand (power cable unplugged) to make certain that everything moves without scrapping.

Install and adjust rip fence for the cut. Be careful. Don't let go of that rip fence without making sure it is locked to the table. Dropping it would not be good for it.

You need outfeed support of some kind and you want to make sure that you have clearance on the outfeed side.

BillV is correct. If you are not comfortable with this setup, you need assistance from someone who is.

Using the tilted table can quickly introduce you to circumstance that you might want to avoid.

You must maintain total control of the stock being cut as well as the cutoff.

wa2crk · Post by **wa2crk** » Mon Jan 30, 2012 10:22 am

Dusty;
I agree but maybe I am trying to read too much into his post. I think that he may be using model 500 therefore no sliding/floating tables. Just my take on his post and I might be wrong.

Bill V

flipper · Post by **flipper** » Mon Jan 30, 2012 10:56 am

thanks for the help!

flipper · Post by **flipper** » Mon Jan 30, 2012 10:57 am

Yes, it is a 500

dusty · Post by **dusty** » Mon Jan 30, 2012 11:00 am

[quote="wa2crk"]Dusty]

You may be absolutely correct. I tend to never think beyond what is available in my shop. I have a representative 510 and a 520. On a 500 this is definitely not as I have depicted.

Flipper, please let me know what your situation is; 500/505/510/520. What I have posted is possible only on 505s and later and then only if the right accessories are available.

fiatben · Post by **fiatben** » Mon Jan 30, 2012 11:31 am

Flipper, the main thing is to wait until some of agree on how to do it and you feel comfortable with what we line out. Maybe one of us can set it up and post a pic or two that would really clarify.
My first thought was to use the end table to hold the fence, even though that would mean the board was riding on an edge against the fence, but I'm not sure the main table would still be on the blade when it was high enough to let the board lay flat.
With my 500 I would use the secondary table slot, which apparently was a response to just this sort of thing. Unfortunately I don't have a clear picture of one, and apparently you don't have one or you'd probably have this done by now.
Another option (and I love woodworking because there are always many ways to do a single task) would be to use a router/bit to chamfer the edge (assuming you have a router, the right bit and maybe even a table, but you could build a cheap table in an hour or so)
And then there are those of us who could be tempted to hand plane it, which would go much quicker than you'd think and is incredibly safe.

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45 angle on a wide board?

45 angle on a wide board?

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