Shopsmith Forums

I'm helping my son with a project, and I need to cut some small rabbit joints. I've seen pictures where people have attached a piece of scrap board to the side of their rip fence and the dado blade sets partially under the scrap board, extended out so the cut ends up as a rabbit cut butted up to the rip fence.

I've got a 520 rip fence, what's the method of attaching said scrap board to the fence?

You could make an inverted "L" shaped fence and bolt it to the top of the 520 rip fence, using the T-slots on top of the fence.

What about the jointer?

Can you just clamp it on the fence, or make a "U" channel and slip it over the fence?

You could use the short miter bars that come with the feather boards but I like the inverted "L" or a "U" shaped fence that rides upon the 520 rip fence using the t-nuts to secure it in place.

Hi,

Shopsmith sells a t-nut that is "made for the job".

4 pack item #555916
http://www.shopsmith.com/ownersite/item ... tem=555916

They are not cheap so one of this summers project will be to make an oak set which will work for 90% of the ways I use them.

Ed

tom_k/mo wrote:I'm helping my son with a project, and I need to cut some small rabbit joints. I've seen pictures where people have attached a piece of scrap board to the side of their rip fence and the dado blade sets partially under the scrap board, extended out so the cut ends up as a rabbit cut butted up to the rip fence.

I've got a 520 rip fence, what's the method of attaching said scrap board to the fence?

Since I really like simple solutions, You could just clamp (using small clamps) a sacrificial board to the side of the fence.

OR- - -drill two 1/4" holes through the fence to look like the holes Shopsmith put in the 510 fence. Then carriage bolts through a straight board and through the fence would hold the sacrificial fence in place.

charlese wrote:Since I really like simple solutions, You could just clamp (using small clamps) a sacrificial board to the side of the fence.

OR- - -drill two 1/4" holes through the fence to look like the holes Shopsmith put in the 510 fence. Then carriage bolts through a straight board and through the fence would hold the sacrificial fence in place.

I just noticed when I moved my original Mark VII that it has 4 tapped holes into the side of the fence that look factory and unused.

My Ridgid TS-3650 has slots that accept a square headed bolt. It came with a few and I have not looked to see if they are a special size or if a standard sized square headed bolt will fit.

Just sitting here thinking about it maybe I will leave my Mark VII normally sat up with a dado set and an added thick and tall sacrificial fence. The very large table and extension system should serve very well for dado work. Of course I can always switch setups around but it might be the handiest if I try to leave it like that as much as possible.
I was just wondering if I would have to make a dado insert for the main table since the the one I bought with my 510 wouldn't work. I couldn't remember what the one in the Mark VII even looked like since I had never had it out. I just ran downstairs and looked (I am liking having the shop there ) and kind of surprisingly it is identical to the regular old Mark V inserts. I have a couple of those dado / molder inserts.
Problem solved.


.

reible wrote:Hi,

Shopsmith sells a t-nut that is "made for the job".

4 pack item #555916
http://www.shopsmith.com/ownersite/itemfind.htm?item=555916

They are not cheap so one of this summers project will be to make an oak set which will work for 90% of the ways I use them.

Ed

I agree with Ed, the 520 fence and the t-nuts are made for one another. I use the two together frequently with great success. Given the cost of hardwood and how easily one can destroy it, I for one feel the T-nut is a bargain. Jim

mrhart wrote:What about the jointer?

The older jointer fences have two 1/4" holes, but the spacing is different from the rip fence.

Not sure re the later jointer, since I have a vague recollection of them being different.