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I have a Power Pro Question

Posted: Sat Feb 04, 2012 11:26 am
by Ed in Tampa
From going to the demo yesterday I found out to do the self upgrade you must drill and tap some holes. I think all the parts are aluminium. I have never been real successful tapping aluminium and I wondered how many people had problems doing it?

I would like to hear from people that did the self upgrade how did it go? Did you encounter problems like stripping the aluminium and if so what did you do to get around the problem?

Curious since I still have hope SS will bring the price of the PowerPro upgrade down the $1000 which is my trigger point.

Posted: Sat Feb 04, 2012 12:45 pm
by paulmcohen
The upgrade process is very simple you just have to follow the video and written instructions. While the drilling is stressed as critical you do have some margin for error. The most critical part is the countersinks for the motor mount and for those you just need to go very slow and measure often.

The most difficult part is making the large hole in the motor pad, I used progressively larger drill bits (which Shopsmith does not recommend) and then a Dremel tool.

As for the cost, since I sold everything I did not need any more (the old motor, speed reducer, belts...) the cost ended up well under $1,000.

Posted: Sat Feb 04, 2012 2:12 pm
by nuhobby
I did the DIY upgrade. I had to drill holes and countersink holes, but did not need to tap any holes. I had no trouble with locating the holes properly.

Like a few others, I was able to sell an existing Emerson motor, double-bearing quill, etc., and significantly reduce my net cash outlay. Got down to the point where the money felt almost fair for a 70-pound hunk of power.

Posted: Sat Feb 04, 2012 4:20 pm
by Ed in Tampa
paulmcohen wrote:The upgrade process is very simple you just have to follow the video and written instructions. While the drilling is stressed as critical you do have some margin for error. The most critical part is the countersinks for the motor mount and for those you just need to go very slow and measure often.

The most difficult part is making the large hole in the motor pad, I used progressively larger drill bits (which Shopsmith does not recommend) and then a Dremel tool.

As for the cost, since I sold everything I did not need any more (the old motor, speed reducer, belts...) the cost ended up well under $1,000.
Paul
I never thought of selling the old motor and such. I wish I had talked to you while I could still get my Demo show discount. If I get the price below $1000 I'm going for it.

Let me see I will have a motor, speed controller, pulley sheaves, belts, plus a spare main belt, idler shaft, pork chop and quadant gear, power shaft and two bearing quill to sell. Wonder how much that is all worth?

Posted: Sat Feb 04, 2012 4:47 pm
by fjimp
Ed,

I bought the whole new headstock thinking I wanted to have the not so old headstock as a back up. Then when my brother bought a used 510 he need a head stock. Thus I reduced the cost substantially. Jim

Posted: Sat Feb 04, 2012 8:01 pm
by backhertz
What's a demo show discount? Where could I get one?
Thanks,

Tony

Posted: Sat Feb 04, 2012 8:16 pm
by JPG
backhertz wrote:What's a demo show discount? Where could I get one?
Thanks,

Tony

At a ss dog and pony show!

http://www.shopsmith.com/markvsite/event_schedule.htm

Posted: Sun Feb 05, 2012 1:34 am
by charlese
Ed in Tampa wrote:From going to the demo yesterday I found out to do the self upgrade you must drill and tap some holes. I think all the parts are aluminum. I have never been real successful tapping aluminum and I wondered how many people had problems doing it?

I would like to hear from people that did the self upgrade how did it go? Did you encounter problems like stripping the aluminum and if so what did you do to get around the problem?

Curious since I still have hope SS will bring the price of the PowerPro upgrade down the $1000 which is my trigger point.

Hi Ed! No need to tap holes in aluminum. Just drill holes through the headstock case. Shopsmith kit provides a drilling jig and a drill bit so you can get the holes in the proper locations. The threads needed are there in the motor mounts. As for countersinking - the kit includes a countersink which has a protrusion the just fits into the holes just drilled. BTW the countersink is adjustable for the length of the protrusion. Then the cutting part of the cs bit is tightened with a small Allen wrench.

Since the motor mounts are aluminum and the threads of the holes and the supplied screws are very fine, caution is needed to not strip the threads when mounting the motor. I had no problem here but Shopsmith cautions about it.

P.S. Same thing with the quill lock.

Posted: Sun Feb 05, 2012 3:06 am
by paulmcohen
Ed in Tampa wrote:Paul
I never thought of selling the old motor and such. I wish I had talked to you while I could still get my Demo show discount. If I get the price below $1000 I'm going for it.

Let me see I will have a motor, speed controller, pulley sheaves, belts, plus a spare main belt, idler shaft, pork chop and quadant gear, power shaft and two bearing quill to sell. Wonder how much that is all worth?

I don't remember exactly but I think I got between $600-$700 including the speed reducer and old lift assist cylinder and a few other things. Your mileage will vary.

Posted: Sun Feb 05, 2012 3:10 am
by paulmcohen
backhertz wrote:What's a demo show discount? Where could I get one?
Thanks,

Tony
You can also use whatever discounts Lowes is offering, I think I used a $50 coupon off a $200 purchase and someone else got a Lowes Military Discount and they have a new customer discount. Plus Shopsmith offers some really good deals for stuff purchased at the demo.