Shopsmith Forums

I have a mark V that has been handed down to me from my grandfather, who was probably the last one to use it years and years ago. I have all the equipment to set up the lathe, but I cannot get the table saw blade off of the spindle. I have removed the set screw, but it seems like the arbor is rusted to the motor spindle. I have tried putting a little WD-40 to lubricate, but still nothing. Any suggestions or something I am missing. I don't have a copy of the owner's manual since I am third generation.

Thx.

Kevin

Here's another Thread discussing a similar problem. Hope you have better luck! I just scanned the thread and didn't see any recommendation about heating the saw arbor. Maybe that would help! WD-40 is a good penetrate - also there are others on the market. Use plenty!

P.S. Whoops! forgot to copy the link. Here it is.- A Day Late - http://www.shopsmith.net/forums/showthr ... ight=stuck

Sometimes home craftsmen treat WD-40 as if it were liquid duct tape; they use it for everything. It is neither a lubricant or a penetrant, although that many people use it for both. The kerosene in WD-40 will penetrate; the wax offers a tiny amout of lubrication, but the "WD" actually stands for "water displacement." It was originally formulated to keep WWII-era military equipment from rusting during shipping and storage, and its still a very good product when it's used for rust protection.

There are many, many better penetrants on the market, however. I suggest you go to an automotive store and find something formulated to penetrate and loosen rust-welded parts. Automotive mechianics have to deal with this problem on a daily basis and they've come up with some very good products.

Heat will help the oil to penetrate, but only in moderation. I've seen many would-be rust-busters heat corroded parts until they smoke when the penetrant is applied. Not only is this dangerous, the penetrant evaporates before it penetrates. Get the part hot to the touch, but not so hot that it would scorch your skin.

Some good solid taps from a brass hammer will also help break rust welds. Be sure to use brass because it will deliver a shock without peening or denting the steel. Smack the saw arbor some good ones right on the hub as you attempt to pull or pry it off the quill arbor.

With all good wishes,

I use PB Blaster with good results. Also have used Kroil once and it was
good. Nick has great advice. Be careful with heat they will flame up if you
use a torch......

I've had the most luck with automatic transmission fluid. In the drill press position, with the help of gravity, it might flow into the arbor better? And good luck.

We had a long posting on this same subject over at:
http://ssug.org/forums/viewtopic.php?t=1511

I don't know if the thing ever did come apart.

Here is one of the ideas that did not work, but sure would have seem it would:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/12199425@N ... 718315600/

Ed