Shopsmith Forums

Hello,

I have a greenie that has a now dead GE 3/4 HP motor. I am going to replace it with another one and I found a A. O. Smith 1 1/8 HP motor from a newer shopsmith (mine is 1957 I believe). I was wondering if it will fit in the headstock with no problems. My shopsmith has the access hole under the logo, and the model # on the motor is C48 L2A16.

Thanks!

A Power Pro will work! <smile> I honestly don't know except I think the Greenie uses a Gilmer belt. But I know there are many Shopsmith experts on this page who will tell you. I also know two people who will rebuild it for you: Bill Mayo & Jacob Anderson. Bili is down between Winter Haven & Tamp and I'm not sure where Jacob is. I do not think Shopsmith rebuilds Greenies as it was another company that made them.

Jacob sells two DVDs on Ebay of him rebuilding a headstock that might help you. Here is his web site:
http://www.jacobs-repairshop.com/

I know Bill is an active reader of the forum. But those are just two of many guys willing to assist or actually do the work.

It appears that the motors interchange easily. They both use the same sheaves on the motor end of things and at that end it's just a V belt.
Most of the used 1 1/8 hp motors that I've seen on Fleabay have come with the sheaves still attached.
Please fill out your profile, it lets folks know about where you are, so sometimes a parts or repair recommendation can be made easily.
For instance, I know where there's a motor in Northern California that the guy will probably sell cheap. I put new bearings in it for him years ago and last time I was up there, it was still sitting on the shelf.

gogreenwave wrote:Hello,

I have a greenie that has a now dead GE 3/4 HP motor.

So WHY ya think it's dead?

beeg wrote:So WHY ya thick it's dead?

Very good question!;)

Be aware that there are three different styles of securing the spring retainer on the motor shaft. That is NOT a problem! All will replace any of the others. Tis best to get a used motor with the sheaves still attached so the different versions become irrelevant, and you get a functioning set.

Same mount, all fit in the motor pan. Minimal degree of difficulty.

If the motor is/has not been smoking, it may be only 'sleeping'!:rolleyes:

I'd definitely make sure that the old motor is dead before spending any money. If you already have the newer motor, it's an easy swap & you can keep the old motor as a spare if it's not really dead. If you feel comfortable taking it apart, you can see/smell to note if the windings are burned.
If not, there's a reasonable chance that it's a simpler issue like replacing the capacitor, or bearings, or lead in wire.

The 3/4 hp GE's are good motors. I've put new bearings in them & they run like new &, in fact, when I test them, the amperage numbers are nearly identical to 1 1/8hp motors. If we assume that the efficiency rating is also nearly the same, then their output is almost identical to the 1 1/8hp motors.
I always wonder is the hp rating change was more a manipulation of the HP formula than an actual change in HP. They used to be conservative in rating stuff in the 50's, and somewhere along the line lots of companies (yes, maybe even Shopsmith or GE) opted to make stuff seem better without actually changing it.
An easy way to do that in the HP rating is to use a different efficiency number in the formula.

Do I have a point? Probably not, but I know that my greenies seemed to run as well as any later machines once I put new bearings in them. I wouldn't be quick to discard the 3/4hp motors.

trainguytom wrote:I'd definitely make sure that the old motor is dead before spending any money. If you already have the newer motor, it's an easy swap & you can keep the old motor as a spare if it's not really dead. If you feel comfortable taking it apart, you can see/smell to note if the windings are burned.
If not, there's a reasonable chance that it's a simpler issue like replacing the capacitor, or bearings, or lead in wire.

The 3/4 hp GE's are good motors. I've put new bearings in them & they run like new &, in fact, when I test them, the amperage numbers are nearly identical to 1 1/8hp motors. If we assume that the efficiency rating is also nearly the same, then their output is almost identical to the 1 1/8hp motors.
I always wonder is the hp rating change was more a manipulation of the HP formula than an actual change in HP. They used to be conservative in rating stuff in the 50's, and somewhere along the line lots of companies (yes, maybe even Shopsmith or GE) opted to make stuff seem better without actually changing it.
An easy way to do that in the HP rating is to use a different efficiency number in the formula.

Do I have a point? Probably not, but I know that my greenies seemed to run as well as any later machines once I put new bearings in them. I wouldn't be quick to discard the 3/4hp motors.

Yes, I totally agree. I find the 3/4 HP motors appear to as powerful as the later 1 1/8 HP motors. Almost all my personal headstocks have used the 3/4 HP motor. Years ago, I used an DC motor bolted to the way tubes with a very large rheostat and driven by a belt for various testing. I did not use any meters at the time as I was mainly testing the use of DC motors in the headstock. I was unable to successfully intergrate the DC motor into the headstock at that time. I did test several 3/4 & 1 1/8 HP motors and the rheostat setting was about the same to briefly slow down the motors almost to a stall. I really enjoyed attempting various projects when modifing the Shopsmith.

Inspired by all these posts, I went out into the shop tonight and dug my 3/4 hp GE out of a scrap pile, (It was smoking, So I had assumed it was dead) and bench tested it without a switch.
Ummm, it works perfectly.
Dohhh!
I looked closely at the original switch and there were loose terminals on it and one was even half torn away.
So I let the motor run on the bench for a good 10 minutes and it was quiet and smooth as silk.
Is it my imagination or is the coil spring for the sheaves heavier on the 3/4 motors than the later 1.25 models?

Hi everyone, thanks for all the comments. I am pretty sure the motor is dead, I had the bearings replaced at an electrical shop, and I set it on my workbench and it ran great, but as soon as put it back in the headstock and under a load, it started smoking a lot and really had a strong burnt smell. Pretty soon it stopped turning all together and just kept blowing the breaker. The driveshaft in the headstock turns easily by hand. My shopsmith is old but it great shape and I know the old ones where well built, so I think it is worth it to invest in a new/repaired motor. I live in the Reno/Tahoe area, NV if anyone knows anybody locally who might have a motor for sale- the shipping on these on ebay is expsensive!

Thanks,

Matt

gogreenwave wrote:Hi everyone, thanks for all the comments. I am pretty sure the motor is dead, I had the bearings replaced at an electrical shop, and I set it on my workbench and it ran great, but as soon as put it back in the headstock and under a load, it started smoking a lot and really had a strong burnt smell. Pretty soon it stopped turning all together and just kept blowing the breaker. The driveshaft in the headstock turns easily by hand. My shopsmith is old but it great shape and I know the old ones where well built, so I think it is worth it to invest in a new/repaired motor. I live in the Reno/Tahoe area, NV if anyone knows anybody locally who might have a motor for sale- the shipping on these on ebay is expsensive!

Thanks,

Matt

See the previous post!:D;) #8