Lift assist problem

chettrick · Post by **chettrick** » Wed Nov 28, 2007 6:04 pm

Thank you Dusty,

I read the post over a couple of times and once I got the terminolgy correct, I realized that is what I had to do to get the ball joints to match the piston. Mine was a half inch longer than the spread of the ball joints.

I moved the waytube set of mounts to the left to compensate for the difference. It was the only way to get it installed. It was after that the movement of the headstock started to bind at the left end.

I can only remove and try again.

reible · Post by **reible** » Wed Nov 28, 2007 6:20 pm

See orginal posting at:
http://www.shopsmith.net/forums/showthread.htm?t=372

Make sure you read to the end as a few other things come into play. The reference in one of my posts about this has moved to:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/12199425@N ... 718314614/

I'll make the change in the orginal post as soon as I'm done here.

If someone wouldn't mind posting the part number for the shopsmith extension it would be nice to be able to ask for it by that. Starting my next years tool orders already... and this is something I'd like to add to the list.

Ed

paulmcohen · Post by **paulmcohen** » Wed Nov 28, 2007 10:52 pm

reible wrote: If someone wouldn't mind posting the part number for the shopsmith extension it would be nice to be able to ask for it by that. Starting my next years tool orders already... and this is something I'd like to add to the list.
Ed

From what I understood it is not listed on the Website even if you know the number you have to speak to customer support to order it.

paulmcohen · Post by **paulmcohen** » Wed Nov 28, 2007 11:00 pm

dusty wrote:Is the tapered end of the live center an example of a morse taper?

Actually it is a #2 Morse Taper, a very important think to know if you want to purchase Lathe accessories.

I can't remember the cost of the Shopsmith extender it is called "Live Center Extension Spacer" but I do remember the cost of shipping was more than one of them.

dusty · Post by **dusty** » Wed Dec 12, 2007 10:27 am

Did you get your lift assist installed so that it works smoothly, chettrick?

It took me a scoosh more time than I expected but when I finally got it installed it was worth the effort. I would never have thought it would work so well. I'll be able to lift the headstock to the vertical position even after I have to use a cane to get to the shop.

Some of the other posts in this thread address another issue created by the lift assist. The headstock cannot be located as close to the tailstock as before. This problem is apparently resolved by the addition of drive center extensions. I have not yet done so but I will.

paulmcohen · Post by **paulmcohen** » Wed Dec 12, 2007 12:42 pm

dusty wrote: Some of the other posts in this thread address another issue created by the lift assist. The headstock cannot be located as close to the tailstock as before. This problem is apparently resolved by the addition of drive center extensions. I have not yet done so but I will.

If you look at Nick new rolling pin video, I think he is using an extension one comes with the lathe duplicator.

cincinnati · Post by **cincinnati** » Wed Dec 12, 2007 2:17 pm

Is it that much of a problem with the lift assist installed. Could you not just extend the quill to make up the difference or is it a greater distant than that? If I need a tail extender I would like to know so I can order one when I get the lift assist.

greitz · Post by **greitz** » Wed Dec 12, 2007 3:31 pm

Check out the previous thread addressing the necessity of using a tailstock extender with the Lift Assist installed:

http://www.shopsmith.net/forums/showthr ... orse+taper

(I hope I pasted the thread link correctly!)

Anyway, it depends upon what you want to turn and if you're using the Universal Tool Rest or not. With the Lift Assist installed and using the Universal Tool Rest, and with the quill fully extended, I also need to use a tailstock extender to hold anything (between centers) thinner than ca. 4", assuming I'm using Shopsmith's live center and 4-prong drive center. With the Lift Assist installed, but using the standard toolrest, I only need a tailstock extender for stuff ca. 1.5" wide or thinner.

So if you're only turning big chunks o' wood, or pens using a long mandrel,etc., then you don't need to worry about the tailstock extender.

Gary

chettrick · Post by **chettrick** » Wed Dec 12, 2007 5:07 pm

I ended up removing the lift assist for now. The projects are backing up and right now I can lift the darn thing with out the help. I will have to start over soon though.

As far as the lathe distance goes, I solved that problem by cutting out the rubber spacer sleeve. The lift assist mounting bracket caused the difference of a fe inches but only when I wanted to turn something very short or flat like a plate.

I noticed that if I removed the the rubber ring, then the two ends came back together. From what I can tell, it is only there so you move the headstock and table next to each other without having to align the sawblade with the insert.

Now I have a second used SS so that is used for my lathe exclusively with bandsaw. Removing the rubber ring would have no affect on me now.

paulmcohen · Post by **paulmcohen** » Wed Dec 12, 2007 5:32 pm

cincinnati wrote:If I need a tail extender I would like to know so I can order one when I get the lift assist.

They were so cheap I ordered two when I ordered something expensive to save on the shipping. Today I have two Shopsmith extenders on the Shopsmith Live Center and a #2 to #2 Morse Taper extender that I use with other accessories. As has been said it depends on what accessories you have. I use the lift assist with the universal tool rest and several third party upgraded tool rests. When you put all this stuff together it helps to be able to extend both the quill and tailstock.

I have also got an interesting tool holder that use uses the lathe duplicator cutter mounted in the standard tool rest which allows me to cut perfectly flat and smooth shapes on the lathe. This would be similar to what Nick did for the body of the rolling pin but without a template or for a very quick "Cross" type pen. In order for this to work you need to be able to slide the carriage close to both the headstock and tailstock.