Shopsmith Forums

So I got my daily SS email ad today and it was for their track saw guide. I am wondering if anyone here is or would be interested in this tool and if they think it is a worth while investment? I have been using a DIY guide I made out of hardboard and a piece of hardwood that I jointed and planed perfectly square and flat. It works but I have to clamp it and it is a little cumbersome to use. This tracksaw guide tool seems to be a really nice way to cut sheet stock efficiently and precisely. What say you Shopsmithers?

http://www.shopsmith.com/ownersite/specials/7DU209.htm?jn=32769&kt=MKT&kr=0007767069&cnum=0007767069&epn=RVPUUSY

wannabewoodworker wrote:So I got my daily SS email ad today and it was for their track saw guide. I am wondering if anyone here is or would be interested in this tool and if they think it is a worth while investment? I have been using a DIY guide I made out of hardboard and a piece of hardwood that I jointed and planed perfectly square and flat. It works but I have to clamp it and it is a little cumbersome to use. This tracksaw guide tool seems to be a really nice way to cut sheet stock efficiently and precisely. What say you Shopsmithers?

http://www.shopsmith.com/ownersite/specials/7DU209.htm?jn=32769&kt=MKT&kr=0007767069&cnum=0007767069&epn=RVPUUSY

I too used a homemade guide for some time. However, I was able to pick up a 100" Eurekazone track and saw base used (for a lot less than the True Trac) and am very pleased with it. I would not categorize it in the 'need to have' category but it certainly fits in the 'nice to have'. That is what a toy budget is for, right?;)

I bought one. I haven't used it yet. If you go to http://www.insighttoolworks.com you'll see Dick's son- Dick is one of the owners, have son in the Shopsmith studio demonstrating the True Trac in a video with a Mark 7 in the background. Here is a link: http://www.insighttoolworks.com/Welcome.html

The other pieces- accessories are not available yet. There is a web site called http://www.toolnuts.com who have their normal True Trac price at $249.99 with free shipping (1-2 days). Dick was an employee of Shopsmith for 20 years and is both well know & respected in the woodworking business with others I have talked to who know him. http://www.acetoolonline.com sells the True Trac as well at that price plus shipping which is $15.06 to my zip code. But Shopsmith has it on sale right now at $249.99 with $20.49 standard shipping. I'm not sure how one company can sell the the True Trac-Saw System with free shipping and two that charge shipping fees except for one secret I learned in the business world and in college a long time ago: volume.

I put the black base on the bottom of a new 10 pound Milwaukee circular saw model 6390-21 which has a handle with the Tilt-Lok feature so that the handle can be moved down so the circular saw looks like a worm drive saw, but it's not. I like that handle position myself.

I didn't use the directions completely in mounting the black plastic base , but rather bought an 8-24 tap/drill set as I didn't want to see 1/2" long screws and nuts sticking out of the top of the bottom plate of the circular saw. Be sure to use the wooden jig that is in with the kit as my blade was not parallel to the side of the saw in the front and rear of the blade. So like the directions say to do, I clamped the black base to the base of the saw before drilling a single hole. Some circular saws have a very thin metal base, so I do not believe enough threads will engage the threaded base place plate, so the nuts will have to be used.

The drilling & tapping part came out well as I screwed the screws through the top of the base such that only half a thread instead of 1/2" inch of the screw is exposed after I cut the screws after measuring how much of the screw extended. It looks good. Oh, here is one thing I did not consider before mounting the base. Know what it is? The Milwaukee plastic case. The saw now has a black plastic base attached the bottom of the base So I got my Dremel tool and operated until the saw fits in perfectly. I am not sure how it will work with other cases other people use, but it might be something you want to consider. I went to the Home Depot, thinking I was going to be mounting the plate to a Mikita 5007 MG magnesium saw until I went to the tool department, put all the circular saws on their sides and held the black base up to each saw. When I learned the Mikita only had a one year warranty and the Milwaukee has a 5 year warranty I forgot about the Mikita. Only one year warranty- I was surprised. The Milwaukee was both thick and flat on the top & bottom of the metal base, so it won.

I've yet to connect the two tracks together as I need some help in carrying a piece of 3/4" plywood which I'll put on a couple of saw horses as a work table and screw some boards on their side like the contractor table kit has when the contractor kit comes out, but I've only seen it operate in the video. The weight of the saw and the track keeps the piece of wood from moving. There are several other accessories like clamps, etc. coming out in the future, but it my understanding that right now the True Trac doesn't need clamps to be used like the EZ Track. I might see the Insight Toolworks people in Somerset, NJ at the Woodworkers Show on Feb 24th as Dick will be there. I hope to use the True Trac this weekend and make some window extension jambs.

Many people I have talked with told me they could easily make their own, but the one of the good features of the True Trac is I believe it almost acts like a zero clearance fence with the white plastic strips. I spoke with a gentleman earlier this evening who has the EZ Track saw. I have not seen one of those yet. I believe it is based on a Festool product- but I don't know that for a fact either. I've also read a thread on this forum where it seems The True Trac is a duplicate of the EZ Track design. I'm not a patent attorney, it seems with the way the True Track rides on top of the track without the need for clamps, it is essentially a new product. The only court I hope to ever be in is a tennis court maybe someday.

I think in all honesty the True Trac offered me what I was looking for- to build window jamb extensions and the scribe a line on the frame to even up with the sheet rock and accomplish it like the guy on the EZ Track video does. But the True True as I recall will accomplish all that for less expense than the EZ Track for the equivalent size of the True Trac and I will not need to secure any clamps when I do my cutting. So if I have an accident, maybe Saw Stop technology will be incorporated in circular saws...<smile>. I am of course joking about that, but I wonder how that lawsuit in MA against Ryobi where a guy admitted he was not using the small table saw properly was awarded $1.5 million dollars. He admitted he didn't read the directions- so he's a "real" man. lol It's sad that an accident like that happened but if worse comes to worse, could you imagine everyone having to attend a special courses to learn how to safely operate you power tool or device.

wannabewoodworker wrote:So I got my daily SS email ad today and it was for their track saw guide. I am wondering if anyone here is or would be interested in this tool and if they think it is a worth while investment? I have been using a DIY guide I made out of hardboard and a piece of hardwood that I jointed and planed perfectly square and flat. It works but I have to clamp it and it is a little cumbersome to use. This tracksaw guide tool seems to be a really nice way to cut sheet stock efficiently and precisely. What say you Shopsmithers?

http://www.shopsmith.com/ownersite/specials/7DU209.htm?jn=32769&kt=MKT&kr=0007767069&cnum=0007767069&epn=RVPUUSY

Michael,

I can't speak to the True Trac, but thought I'd share my thoughts on tracksaw concept in general.

I've had the EurekaZone track system for 2 years and love it. I later bought a B-300 bridge system that allows me to mount track to a work cart that I built allowing precise repeatability (when using stops) for crosscuts or ripping smaller sheet or lumber stock.

I've only used it to cut down a small number of full sheets, but it works magnificently and is so much safer, easier, and more precise than a tablesaw or using a homemade guide. I built a rig on a Harbor Freight motorcycle lift using the EZ smart table kit (STK) (http://tracksawforum.com/showthread.php?t=862). I can slide sheet goods off my utility trailer onto the table, raise it up to a more comfortable height, and cut it down. This definitely saves a lot of effort and sore back compared to carrying sheets of whatever to the back yard.

I also purchased the EZ router adapter kit, allowing precise control of a router to do dados and similar tasks.

With a good CS blade (many EZ owners use Diablo 40T blades), expect excellent, clean cuts.

You do need to be patient and precise putting the saw base on so that you get the blade as close to parallel with the track as possible.

The tracksaw concept completely replaced my need for a tablesaw to the point that I gave away my old Ryobi BT3000 after it sat completely unused since buying the tracksaw. The tracksaw & bridge's only weakness in my mind is precision beveling]http://tracksawforum.com[/URL] to see how people are using their tracksaws. While it is presently EZ centric, all are welcome; you just won't presently find much info on the True Trac.

Roy

I watched the video and was favorably impressed! After looking at the cost, even with $50 off, my purse just won't open up. We all differ a bit in how our shops operate - some folks will really like this and buy it - while others won't.

Guess I'll stick with my homemade saw guide. Yeah, have to clamp it down, but at a $200 cost savings, I'll suffer the chore of clamping.

I made my own several years before I was able to afford a Shopsmith. Then the table top for the SS was too small, so I kept my homemade contraption. It is 8 feet long 1/4 inch plywood with a 1 X 2 strip to guide the saw foot. Like these other systems, my saw cut off the excess so it is similar to a zero clearance on one side. And, I have dropped this contraption without any damage. Thanks for this interesting thread. I am now considering the Delta plunge saw, but not happy with the price. And, I like the SS tablesaw for smaller pieces.

After I cut my pieces by the circular saw, I then use the sanding disk to true and smooth the cut pieces. Takes time, but the results are well worth it. Then I do my shaping. Just my way of doing things.

I made a homemade guide using just what was on hand without a lot of hunting. I had a stash of good quality OSB (some of it out there is not good quality) and cut an 8'x13" or so. Then I cut a piece about 8'x3" wide and glued it down lined up with one edge being sure that I had a good straight edge next to the saw. Next I just made a cut to trim off the excess and it was done and trimmed to my saw. I do need to give it a coat or 2 of red paint because it disappears sometimes if it gets laid with some new wood.
I made an interesting discovery recently. I had cut it to fit my older very heavy Craftsman 7.25" saw. Maybe 6 - 8 years ago I had bought a much lighter B&D 7.25" saw for a certain use and it also matches the cutting guide perfectly. Who would have thunk it? I have maybe 5 - 6 other hand held circle saws all a little smaller like a 6.5" and a couple of 5"s etc. and I would be willing to bet money that none of them would fit my guide.
I will just stick with my homemade guide for now. I have no problem clamping it down.

BTW, that B&D saw is a really low cost saw, about all plastic and IIRC I bought it at Wal-Mart. I bought it as a throw-away saw to use to cut sawmill slabwood that I was buying from an Amish sawmiller I know for about $15 for a bundle that you couldn't begin to pile on a half-ton pickup. The slabs were 8' to 16' long and while we used it for cheap heat I saved a lot of good stuff out of it. Some of it cherry and black walnut.
I didn't want to use a chainsaw on most of that wood (gives me a backache) and I didn't want to wear out my good Craftsman saw on it and specifically wanted a light saw. I bought it as a throw-away but after using it for that several years and on some framing jobs it is still going strong. I use cheap bulk lumberyard carbide blades that you buy off of the hook or out of a box for a few bucks. They also work very well.


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