Shopsmith Forums

Just got a 1996 510 and was cleaning & doing alinement could not get the table square with any of my 10" high dollar RED saw blades or any of my three sanding disks... best I could do was about 0.010 using a dial indicator with magnet on the miter Gage bar. Just glad it was cheap!
I have a 1986 Mark 5 that is with in 0.002-0.005 on the table to blade. The 510 also has more noise & vibration. So I checked the shaft with the drill chuck & 1/2 bar stock 2-3" long, the run out is about 0.030 & there is some bearing play. What is normal for run out? Not sure if it needs bearings or if the shaft is bent. the person I got it from was turning BIG stuff 10-12" tree trunks 6-10 long from what I saw laying around. Can I rebuild the Quill or do I need A new one from Shopsmith or is there other options. Looking forward to making saw dust the fence/table is far better that my Mark 5.

The 86 version is a 2 bearing quill? You should not be seeing .03 of runout on any of these machines. .005 is expected and .001 would be exceptional.

With a 2 bearing quill I would think 0.03 run out impossible unless the shaft was bent.(or missing some balls!)

Question is, does it move side to side(bearing slop) or wobble(bent).

There is shaft movement. Not sure if it is just bearings or if the shaft is bent too. So How far can I go rebuilding a quill on my own? Would it be better to just get a new Quill from Shopsmith?

mwhizz wrote:There is shaft movement. Not sure if it is just bearings or if the shaft is bent too. So How far can I go rebuilding a quill on my own? Would it be better to just get a new Quill from Shopsmith?

Only you can answer that. How comfortable are you at replacing bearings.

For starters, I would take it apart and determine what is causing the problem, then decide on corrective action.

It sounds like a bad quill (as you are concluding) but I would do one more check. Swap quills. If the runout is now bad on the other machine, it is time to order bearings.

I would suggest changing the bearings as a first option. The bearings are not expensive. The quill shaft can then be checked for straightness before reassembly. If the shaft is bent it may be possible for a GOOD local machine shop to straighten it. If it can not be straightened I think that SS may sell a new shaft and the new bearings can be used on it. You will have to check with CS for that option.
Bill V

wa2crk wrote:I would suggest changing the bearings as a first option. The bearings are not expensive. The quill shaft can then be checked for straightness before reassembly. If the shaft is bent it may be possible for a GOOD local machine shop to straighten it. If it can not be straightened I think that SS may sell a new shaft and the new bearings can be used on it. You will have to check with CS for that option.
Bill V

You can usually tell if a part is a repair part by viewing the illustrated parts list. If the bearings and the shaft showup below the Quill Assembly - then you can buy them. If they don't break out, you have to buy the next higher assembly.

Check out 518210 in the followinglink.

Remember, there are variations to the 2 bearing quill shafts and bearings!

JPG40504 wrote:Remember, there are variations to the 2 bearing quill shafts and bearings!

OKAY, I have heard that before. I have two machines with two bearing quills. I know which machine is the oldest - that is easy because of the on/off switches.

I have the two quills laying out on the bench but don't know which one goes with which machine. How do I know?

Within the category of "two bearing quill assembly", are there different part numbers and if there are, what are the differences?