Shopsmith Forums

My headstock started making the pop sound when loosening the headstock lock.

Here are photos of the lock wedges.

Opinions on course of action??
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Thanks

I seem to remember another thread where Bill Mayo talked about dressing the wedges up with a file so they were flat again. I'll dig and see if I can find the thread later this evening.

Clamp 'em in a vice and file the sloped area flat. Should be as good as new. Don't take off excessive material.
Bill V

wa2crk wrote:Clamp 'em in a vice and file the sloped area flat. Should be as good as new. Don't take off excessive material.
Bill V

Because of the way the wedges work, I don't believe you can take off too much (within reason of course). Bottom line, if it works - great. If it doesn't you need new wedges.

This is one of the simplest fixes I have done. With a flat file, the material at the top and bottom of the wedge will be the first to be removed. With even pressure, checking that the material is being removed evenly on each side, just keep filing until the top and bottom filed areas meet leaving a flat angled surface. Less than a minute job in most cases for each wedge. I believe "close counts" in this case.

Thanks I have them filed Close enough I believe. I'll find out when I reassemble. Since I had pretty much everything apart to change the bearings out I decided it was time recondition my '55 "Old Blue".
You can see pics of what I mean by copying and pasting the link in my signature.

I have all of the bearings replaced and everything is broken down and prepped for paint. I think I'm going to skip reconditioning the bench tubes though and just paint them gloss black with some of the new rust covering paint. I tried some crud cutter rust remover on them and that got most of the surface rust but I don't think these will ever shine again. Call me cheap, lazy, or impatient take your pick, I just don't see the value in spending much time or money to make the bench tubes shiny. The way tubes are in great shape and those are the ones that really matter. All of the sheet matal and aluminum is prepped. I should paint this week.

Paint scheme:
Belt cover in silver hammered in honor of the early '50s model that she is.
Headstock, motor pan, carriage, head pieces and legs in hammered blue in honor of the blue color my dad had painted it oh so long ago.
Bench tubes and mounting hardware in gloss black

I think I'm also going to paint my under cabinet black as well just so it blends in.

I'll post pics in a new thread when it's done.

billmayo wrote:This is one of the simplest fixes I have done. With a flat file, the material at the top and bottom of the wedge will be the first to be removed. With even pressure, checking that the material is being removed evenly on each side, just keep filing until the top and bottom filed areas meet leaving a flat angled surface. Less than a minute job in most cases for each wedge. I believe "close counts" in this case.

Good to hear, Bill. I was wondering the same thing! It's not that 8.95 per piece is all that expensive, but when you start adding up the cost of all the parts that you can't repair - it gets to be pretty important to salvage those you can ...

Thanks! Bob

bdeweese wrote:Good to hear, Bill. I was wondering the same thing! It's not that 8.95 per piece is all that expensive, but when you start adding up the cost of all the parts that you can't repair - it gets to be pretty important to salvage those you can ...

Thanks! Bob

Not to mention shipping, and the wait time for parts to arrive. I filed them flat in less time than it would have taken me to order them on line. I see that as a a $50 savings. 2 Carriage wedges, 2 head stock wedges, shipping, etc.