Bead and Cove for boatbuilding

sagalli · Post by **sagalli** » Thu Jul 12, 2012 12:46 pm

Hi.

I'm new to the forum and new to woodworking. I'm planning to build a wooden skiff from plans using wood strip method, and originally I was going to buy the station molds and bead and cove strips already cut because I don't have a router/table, or really any wood working tools. Then I remembered my dad has had a shopsmith(I believe Mark V) for about 20 years and never used it. So, I think it would be enjoyable to buy the lumber in bulk and cut my own strips and put the bead and cove edges on them. Has anyone done this on a shop smith? What tools and accessories for the ss cut the stock? I'm guessing table saw for cutting, but then I'm at a loss for routing the bead and cove. Any info is appreciated. Thanks.

algale · Post by **algale** » Thu Jul 12, 2012 1:14 pm

I am getting ready to do the same but with a canoe. You need a 1/8th inch radius bead and 1/8 radius cove. These are available as either 1/4 or 1/2 inch shank router bits that could be used in the Shopsmith router chuck but there is a debate whether the shopsmith has enough rpms for routing although many members report good results.

sagalli · Post by **sagalli** » Thu Jul 12, 2012 1:26 pm

Should I consider the SS router table extension, or just look into a standalone setup?

algale · Post by **algale** » Thu Jul 12, 2012 2:01 pm

I don't have the Shopsmith router table but others have reported it is excellent if a bit pricey. Several members have made router tables to rest on the Shopsmith table extension tubes for the 510/520 models.

fredsheldon · Post by **fredsheldon** » Thu Jul 12, 2012 3:16 pm

algale wrote:I am getting ready to do the same but with a canoe. You need a 1/8th inch radius bead and 1/8 radius cove. These are available as either 1/4 or 1/2 inch shank router bits that could be used in the Shopsmith router chuck but there is a debate whether the shopsmith has enough rpms for routing although many members report good results.

With the PowerPro upgrade, you can develop up to 10,000 rpms which just might be enough to perform most router operations using just the SS standard table. And since it runs in both directions, you can upgrade to the double tilt option and do it from above or below the table if I'm not mistaken.

pennview · Post by **pennview** » Thu Jul 12, 2012 3:36 pm

Here's an earlier thread on using a Shopsmith to build a strip canoe -- https://forum.shopsmith.com/viewtopic.php?t=3367

There's a link to the building process, but it is broken. Nevertheless, you likely can find lots of info about canoe building via Google. Even videos.

For cutting the strips, the bandsaw would result in a lot less waste of the cedar because of the much wider kerf of the tablesaw blade.

Regarding using the Shopsmith to route the the beads and coves on the edges of the strips, I'd say you'll get vastly superior results using a router and router table, even if you simply knocked out something for doing just the strips. A router spinning at 18,000 - 20,000 RPMs is going to give you a much cleaner cut than something turning at 5,000 RPMs.

Don't forget to post pictures when you're done.

lightnin · Post by **lightnin** » Thu Jul 12, 2012 6:03 pm

Sounds like your new to Shopsmith to. You really should read up on some basics HERE some mistakes are easy to make/avoid.

jbooher · Post by **jbooher** » Thu Jul 12, 2012 11:01 pm

I builded the Rice Lake Skiff a couble of years ago using the Shopsmith. The wood was local cedar and I used the tablesaw with a thin blade. The strips were cut oversized then planed down to size. The beads and coves were made using the molder on the shopsmith. A board was attached to the fence so that the molder head did not cut the fence. Four finger boards were used to hold the strips in proper position for cutting the beads and coves. Two finder boards were placed top and side for infeed and two for the outfeed. Cut the beads first.

shipwright · Post by **shipwright** » Fri Jul 13, 2012 1:32 am

I am loathe to say you shouldn't consider doing this on a ShopSmith but you really shouldn't do this on the ShopSmith. Rip your pieces, yes but then go down to Harbour Freight and pick up one of their excellent little laminate trimmers for $27 plus or minus and do your routing with it. When I built " Friendship" I used bead and cove for the inner layer and a Makita trimmer. I like the HF one better.

I love my ShopSmith but it doesn't make sense to try to run long unwieldy pieces past a stationary machine when you can set them up on a bench and run a light, easily controlled hand held trimmer over them.

Just My opinion of course.

Paul M