Hi,
I just wanted to mention that if you don't want to go the wood route for the drive center you do have other options. I had a metal one made, if interested see this post:
https://forum.shopsmith.com/viewtopic.php?t=12594
I picked up this:
http://www.woodturnerscatalog.com/p/1/- ... drel+saver
And I've found I like it better then my previous method for pen making. I'm very happy with this model and I know it is more expensive then other versions but like I said I like it.
All of this reminds me I have some pens I need to turn next week.... got to get that on the list.
Ed
Pen turners advice
Moderator: admin
One person's build of a Nova Live Center Mandrel Adapter
The second attempt to use the Pen Mandrel with the Nova Live center makes a little noise when used w/o a bushing at each end.
The second attempt to make a soft point for use with a pen mandrel works. To turn the soft point, I had to use the pen mandrel and the Nova Live center sans the 60 degree point. The material was drilled through the center w/ a 1/4" bit. The blank was mounted on the mandrel w/ bushings on each end, and the brass nut tightened on the mandrel. A twice folded square of TP was placed on the end of the mandrel and over the brass nut. The quill was advanced pushing the brass nut into opening where the 60 degree point had been. Turning proceeded at about 1200 rpm, with many incidental catches, but no gouges on the blank.
The turning from the blank was made with a flair on the left end to fit over the end of the Nova Live Center, the 1/4" hole in the center, and a taper matching the sides of the 60 degree center. THIS SETUP IS USED TO TURN THE SOFT POINTS, ONLY.
1 Bushing meeting the left end of the blank with 1/4" hole in it for the mandrel.
2 Blank for turning with 1/4" hole through it for the mandrel.
3 Bushing for right end of the blank.
4 Brass nut for Mandrel tightened to hold the blank.
5. TP Square, folded twice, over the end of the mandrel and brass nut, pushed into the Nova Live Center.
Three soft points were turned from the first blank. Mine had a flare on the left end, a taper to match the sides of the 60 degree point, and a bottom profile that matched the 60 degree point. I have short lengths of 1/4" copper tubing that supplement my supply of bushings.
The soft points were sanded polished, blessed, separated and the ends sanded square.
The Mandrel Adapter production configuration is:
1 Bushing(s) meeting the left end of the blank with 1/4" hole in it for the mandrel.
2 Blank for turning with 1/4" hole through it for the mandrel equal to a pen blank with a brass tube..
3 Bushing for right end of the blank.
4 Soft point with mandrel's right end inserted in the 1/4" through hole through the soft point, soft point pressed gently into the Nova Live Center. The brass nut is NOT used, one less item to adjust or lose in the shavings!
5. Check the rotation, to make sure that nothing is dragging, the blank is close to being centered, pending rounding w/a gouge to clear out of round material.
Consider that now you have a great deal of mechanical leverage to press the blank and bushings to the left on the mandrel. Proceed with caution, this is the time to be conservative.
A s stated, I get a lot of catches that stop the blank. I don't see this happening to turners giving demonstrations. I get past this problem by increasing the speed to about 1200 rpm and taking light cuts, cautiously.
Actually, three soft points were made from the blank, left end, center, and right end. It appears that the Nova Live Center, the taper inside the left end of the Nova live center is CENTERED and turning the soft points on the mandrel makes them concentric with the 1/4" drilled hole drilled through the blank.
The second attempt to make a soft point for use with a pen mandrel works. To turn the soft point, I had to use the pen mandrel and the Nova Live center sans the 60 degree point. The material was drilled through the center w/ a 1/4" bit. The blank was mounted on the mandrel w/ bushings on each end, and the brass nut tightened on the mandrel. A twice folded square of TP was placed on the end of the mandrel and over the brass nut. The quill was advanced pushing the brass nut into opening where the 60 degree point had been. Turning proceeded at about 1200 rpm, with many incidental catches, but no gouges on the blank.
The turning from the blank was made with a flair on the left end to fit over the end of the Nova Live Center, the 1/4" hole in the center, and a taper matching the sides of the 60 degree center. THIS SETUP IS USED TO TURN THE SOFT POINTS, ONLY.
1 Bushing meeting the left end of the blank with 1/4" hole in it for the mandrel.
2 Blank for turning with 1/4" hole through it for the mandrel.
3 Bushing for right end of the blank.
4 Brass nut for Mandrel tightened to hold the blank.
5. TP Square, folded twice, over the end of the mandrel and brass nut, pushed into the Nova Live Center.
Three soft points were turned from the first blank. Mine had a flare on the left end, a taper to match the sides of the 60 degree point, and a bottom profile that matched the 60 degree point. I have short lengths of 1/4" copper tubing that supplement my supply of bushings.
The soft points were sanded polished, blessed, separated and the ends sanded square.
The Mandrel Adapter production configuration is:
1 Bushing(s) meeting the left end of the blank with 1/4" hole in it for the mandrel.
2 Blank for turning with 1/4" hole through it for the mandrel equal to a pen blank with a brass tube..
3 Bushing for right end of the blank.
4 Soft point with mandrel's right end inserted in the 1/4" through hole through the soft point, soft point pressed gently into the Nova Live Center. The brass nut is NOT used, one less item to adjust or lose in the shavings!
5. Check the rotation, to make sure that nothing is dragging, the blank is close to being centered, pending rounding w/a gouge to clear out of round material.
Consider that now you have a great deal of mechanical leverage to press the blank and bushings to the left on the mandrel. Proceed with caution, this is the time to be conservative.
A s stated, I get a lot of catches that stop the blank. I don't see this happening to turners giving demonstrations. I get past this problem by increasing the speed to about 1200 rpm and taking light cuts, cautiously.
Actually, three soft points were made from the blank, left end, center, and right end. It appears that the Nova Live Center, the taper inside the left end of the Nova live center is CENTERED and turning the soft points on the mandrel makes them concentric with the 1/4" drilled hole drilled through the blank.
MK V 520; MK V 510 w/PP DIY Upgrade; MK 5 500; Jointer; Bandsaw; Sliding Table; Conical Sanding Disk; Sharpening Guide, Lathe Duplicator, Jigsaw, Scrollsaw, Beltsander, Ring Master, Biscuit Joiner.
- terrydowning
- Platinum Member
- Posts: 1678
- Joined: Mon Jul 19, 2010 3:26 pm
- Location: Windsor, CO
mojo, (and any one else interested.)rmojo wrote:Terry can you post some pictures how you do this?
Here is a link to a thread I did last year regarding one my pen turning methods.
http://shopsmith.net/forums/showthread.htm?t=11705 Lot of pics in there.
--
Terry
Copy and paste the URLs into your browser if you want to see the photos.
1955 Shopsmith Mark 5 S/N 296860 Workshop and Tools
https://1drv.ms/i/s!AmpX5k8IhN7ahFCo9VvTDsCpoV_g
Public Photos of Projects
http://sdrv.ms/MaXNLX
Terry
Copy and paste the URLs into your browser if you want to see the photos.
1955 Shopsmith Mark 5 S/N 296860 Workshop and Tools
https://1drv.ms/i/s!AmpX5k8IhN7ahFCo9VvTDsCpoV_g
Public Photos of Projects
http://sdrv.ms/MaXNLX
Outstanding!terrydowning wrote:mojo, (and any one else interested.)
Here is a link to a thread I did last year regarding one my pen turning methods.
http://shopsmith.net/forums/showthread.htm?t=11705 Lot of pics in there.
Thank you for this. I'm just getting in to turning, and this will be a big help with the small projects I've got planned.
Phil Wilson from Teknatool Advice for pen turning
View his response. Seems to be the wayBenush26 is turning pens.Turning a soft pointmay alleviate the larger mandrel hole in the NLCS, allow bushings to be used and turn both barrels of a slimline pen.
Phil Wilson:
I think I'd try using the miniature extension center instead. One in the tailstock and another in the headstock, eliminating the mandrel altogether. Using the 60 degree live center in the tailstock, and getting a 60 degree dead center for the headstock is another method used by many pen turners looking for better accuracy.
The mandrel saver gadgets I have seen online allow the mandrel to slide through the live center so pressure is on the bushings. The hole through our live center system is considerably larger than the mandrels we have here, so I don't know how well that would work.
The NLCS is a very versatile system, so I would not be surprised if it could work very well for you.
Phil
Phil Wilson:
I think I'd try using the miniature extension center instead. One in the tailstock and another in the headstock, eliminating the mandrel altogether. Using the 60 degree live center in the tailstock, and getting a 60 degree dead center for the headstock is another method used by many pen turners looking for better accuracy.
The mandrel saver gadgets I have seen online allow the mandrel to slide through the live center so pressure is on the bushings. The hole through our live center system is considerably larger than the mandrels we have here, so I don't know how well that would work.
The NLCS is a very versatile system, so I would not be surprised if it could work very well for you.
Phil
MK V 520; MK V 510 w/PP DIY Upgrade; MK 5 500; Jointer; Bandsaw; Sliding Table; Conical Sanding Disk; Sharpening Guide, Lathe Duplicator, Jigsaw, Scrollsaw, Beltsander, Ring Master, Biscuit Joiner.
Hi Gang
Back on April 19 of 2013 I posted two posts on this subject but I can't seem to get the postings into a link. One is of a drive center using the SS screw center and the second is showing it in use on a Delta model L200 lathe. The screw center is mounted to the SS tailstock chuck arbor and used in the headstock of the Delta. It has worked real good up to this time.
Bill V
Back on April 19 of 2013 I posted two posts on this subject but I can't seem to get the postings into a link. One is of a drive center using the SS screw center and the second is showing it in use on a Delta model L200 lathe. The screw center is mounted to the SS tailstock chuck arbor and used in the headstock of the Delta. It has worked real good up to this time.
Bill V
- JPG
- Platinum Member
- Posts: 35600
- Joined: Wed Dec 10, 2008 7:42 pm
- Location: Lexington, Ky (TAMECAT territory)
wa2crk wrote:Hi Gang
Back on April 19 of 2013 I posted two posts on this subject but I can't seem to get the postings into a link. One is of a drive center using the SS screw center and the second is showing it in use on a Delta model L200 lathe. The screw center is mounted to the SS tailstock chuck arbor and used in the headstock of the Delta. It has worked real good up to this time.
Bill V
Recalibrate that date. You made no posts on April 19 this year.
April 09 however:
https://forum.shopsmith.com/viewtopic.php?p=143076&postcount=4
And
http://www.shopsmith.net/forums/showpos ... ostcount=5
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
╟JPG ╢
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange