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Posted: Fri Aug 24, 2012 3:12 am
by backhertz
Need long drill bits or burs at a decent price? Try this place. Cheapest one I've found with quality products:
http://www.carbideprocessors.com/Carbide-Processors/
Posted: Fri Aug 24, 2012 10:34 am
by videobear
Why not make one of those bobbers with no moving parts and no holes? just a float with a long dowel sticking out of both ends.
Posted: Sun Sep 02, 2012 10:36 am
by stickthrower
The biggest reason videobear is that some of the lakes we fish in, you have to get down 15-20 feet. THat is a pretty tough cast with a fixed bobber. Much easier with a slip bobber.
I am wanting to make a few up for myself, and some for family. Even for the kids, it is easier to have the slip bobber. When they are casting, it is alot safer for all involved. I am amazed, thinking back, that I never hooked my dad when he was teaching me to fish. With this, there is only maybe a foot of line out instead of however deep you are trying to fish.
Posted: Sun Sep 02, 2012 7:47 pm
by pennview
Enco sells 8" long bits starting at 1/8", but they're not exactly inexpensive.
http://www.use-enco.com/CGI/INPDFF?PMPA ... M=990-1358
Posted: Sun Sep 02, 2012 10:32 pm
by lightnin
The types of bobbers or floats as some call them is endless.
[ATTACH]18351[/ATTACH]
When made from wood the body is usually balsa for it's light weight. I can't recall ever seeing
a slip bobber with a hollow wooden center shaft that protruded beyond the balsa part more than about ½"
any longer than that were either plastic or they had a small hole going sideways through the very bottom.
[ATTACH]18352[/ATTACH][ATTACH]18353[/ATTACH]
You will want to put an epoxy coating on them then paint. If you plan on making very many you really
should make something to rotate them while the finish dries this will come in handy for all kinds of things.
when it rotates the paint, epoxy etc. does not run/droupe to one side. I use mine on all sorts of small things.
Mine is a small 110 v 5 rpm motor that turns a 5 gal bucket lid with foam around the circumference to stick
jig and fly hooks in and alligator clips to hold whatever else I need.
[ATTACH]18354[/ATTACH]
[ATTACH]18355[/ATTACH]
I haven't tried this since I heard it but supposedly you can mix alcohol in the epoxy and it will thin it without effecting
the cure time. I would guess a cloudy finish may result.
My theory on bobbers is never use a bobber larger then necessary to float your lure/rig you want just a bit more that neutral buoyancy
any more and your adding extra to the tug feeling the fish gets and he is more likely to spit it out and the shy bite fish will come and
go with your bait without your noticing a thing. If your bobber is too big you might as well use a beach ball.
Posted: Mon Sep 03, 2012 10:15 am
by videobear
stickthrower wrote:The biggest reason videobear is that some of the lakes we fish in, you have to get down 15-20 feet. THat is a pretty tough cast with a fixed bobber. Much easier with a slip bobber.
I am wanting to make a few up for myself, and some for family. Even for the kids, it is easier to have the slip bobber. When they are casting, it is alot safer for all involved. I am amazed, thinking back, that I never hooked my dad when he was teaching me to fish. With this, there is only maybe a foot of line out instead of however deep you are trying to fish.
Heh...you can tell I'm not a fisherman. I've used those slip bobbers (plastic ones) many times, and never realized they can be repositioned AFTER a cast...er, how DOES that work?
Posted: Mon Sep 03, 2012 11:00 am
by saminmn
The rig goes something like this: tie a knot with a short string along the line (I buy a helper with the knot already tied on a plastic tube. Slide the tube with the knot onto the line, then slide the knot off the tube and tighten). Next a plastic bead that will stop sliding up the line when it hits the knot. Then the bobber has the line go through it so it can slide between the bead and the terminal tackle or the sinker.
Posted: Wed Sep 05, 2012 9:28 am
by stickthrower
I am going to have to look at doing something like that Sam. That is a good idea. I hadn't actually even thought about what to do for the finish. I was still working on getting the hole drilled and didn't think past that.
I found a bit at home depot yesterday, but the dang thing is over a foot long! So I don't know. I may have to get that, and then cut it down so it won't be quite so long. I haven't had time to do much woodworking, so I haven't been able to try to make the borer suggested earlier on this thread.
I don't typically use the bead anymore. I do still use the knot. My father in law has found some plastic pieces that you feed the line through, that you don't have to worry about the knot coming loose.
Over the weekend, we did quite a bit of fishing (lousy fishing, but still fishing), and most of the fish we caught, we had to get down 10-15 ft. so it was really either go bobberless or use the slip. I don't honestly own any non-slip bobbers anymore I don't think.
Posted: Fri Sep 07, 2012 3:13 am
by lightnin
Another tip: choosing paint colors for bobbers
for best viability
Daylight - florescent orange
Low light - florescent chartreuse
Night fishing - florescent chartreuse bobber and use UV LED light
will make those bobbers glow nicely in the dark.
To avoid confusion the light is in the boat shining out towards the bobbers.
Caution: The UV light is not good for your eyes place it so it is shielded from
direct viewing.... The UV light is also the best thing to use on glow in the dark
paints/lures just put it in the UV light for a second or two it should glow for
ten to fifteen minutes.... well the good ones will.
Works much better than the old camera flash method.
Oh, I have a fer bobbers I painted with Glow in the dark paints that works well.
Posted: Fri Sep 07, 2012 8:58 pm
by fjimp
lightnin wrote:Another tip: choosing paint colors for bobbers
for best viability
Oh, I have a fer bobbers I painted with Glow in the dark paints that works well.
Do the fish like the way it works?