Shopsmith Forums

The shroud. My guess is that it is. The top is shaped round to match the motor and the bottom extends to a flat to mount to the sheet metal beside the motor mount brackets. Don't have a pic ready, but could try to get one if anyone is interested.
I also believe my machine to be original and minimally used.

squashfest81 wrote:The shroud. My guess is that it is. The top is shaped round to match the motor and the bottom extends to a flat to mount to the sheet metal beside the motor mount brackets. Don't have a pic ready, but could try to get one if anyone is interested.
I also believe my machine to be original and minimally used.

An off the wall question.

Behind the 'traverse crank' / 'headstock lock', is a weirdly shaped wire spring that AIUI helps keep the crank captive in the 'closed' position. I do not have one of those. Any chance you could take pix of it in various positions of the crank so that I might be able to reproduce one? Of particular importance is the ends where it attaches to the hub(or crank) and how it works(spring shape as it slides on/off the crank). I believe the crank has a sloped ledge that the spring 'grabs'.

#39

[ATTACH]22196[/ATTACH]

PM me yer e-mail address and I will send pix of the emblem as well. We can continue 'off line'.

This is a site for shopsmith fanatics, nothing is off the wall. I'll get pics and post them up for all. And email for larger clearer pics.
I know the Mark VII's were only made for like a year. How not common are they? Anyone know production numbers and survival guestimates?

squashfest81 wrote:This is a site for shopsmith fanatics, nothing is off the wall. I'll get pics and post them up for all. And email for larger clearer pics.
I know the Mark VII's were only made for like a year. How not common are they? Anyone know production numbers and survival guestimates?

I can count on one hand the number of active forum members that admit to either having had one or currently have one.(Farmer excepted - he has more than one!):D

They are somewhat 'rare' in operating condition, so do take good care of yours. If a part is nylon, take VERY good care of it.

Wouldn't want Rex upset with you!

I picked one up about two years ago. I now use it along with my 10ER. By comparison to the 10ER I feel like the saw table is like an aircraft carrier. While I am still using the original cam, I bought an aluminum one when they were available a while ago. Just in case. I intend to keep mine functioning for a long time.
ED

Good work Ed.
I've done some reading and the concerns are based in the plastics? Mine appears stable. Is there a product out there to maintain the nylon? Should I cast a mold of my speed adjuster pork chop before I run into a problem?
Just run it? I don't want to upset Rex.

The little spring deal. I took a couple shots. If we need more info we can pull it out. Looks pretty basic. I'm not even sure of what role it is playing. On to the pics. One from each side/handle flipped.
[img][IMG]http://i1315.photobucket.com/albums/t593/squashfest81/IMAG0790_zps6488dfc7.jpg[/img][/IMG]

Thank You for the spring pix.

Do I understand correctly that the spring passes through the hole in the shaft?

Also that the spring is essentially "S" shaped?

Although in the pix it appears to have it's ends in a hole, there are no holes in mine so do I understand correctly that the ends of the spring merely press against the inside edge of the hub?

I would have never guessed that from the parts diagram.

Function wise, I think anti-rattle in the transverse crank position, and detent/anti-rattle in the locked position.

Care of the plastic parts. The cam damage(melting) occurs due to lack of lubrication of the control sheave and button bearing. A hot button will melt a hole into the plastic cam. There is no porkchop, the cam takes its place.
A well lubricated control sheave should minimize camming surface wear. Do realize the 'do not move dial' towards slow unless pulleys are rotating also applies here! Same belt squeeze.


The other plastic issue is the gear rack on the front way tube. Subject to wear and breaking. Resisting gorrilla tactics should help prevent damage. If something is causing the headstock/carriage to bind, fix that, rather than bulling through. I am still in resurrect mode, but that is the way I see it.

[quote="JPG40504"]Thank You for the spring pix.
Not a problem. More if we need them.

Do I understand correctly that the spring passes through the hole in the shaft?
Yes, passes through the hole.

Also that the spring is essentially "S" shaped?
Yes. I'd say absolutely S shaped.

Although in the pix it appears to have it's ends in a hole, there are no holes in mine so do I understand correctly that the ends of the spring merely press against the inside edge of the hub?
The spring ends are not in holes. I actually grabbed them with pliers as I assumed they would be. Spring is bent in the S and the ends just end and happen to sit where they sit.

I would have never guessed that from the parts diagram.
I agree.

Function wise, I think anti-rattle in the transverse crank position, and detent/anti-rattle in the locked position.
Anti-rattle makes sense.

I am still in resurrect mode, but that is the way I see it.]
Get it going. We need to pass the "one hand" of functioning Mark VII's.