Shopsmith Forums

I like this un.
http://www.shopsmith.com/ss_forum/viewt ... 14#p181414

I forgot to add:

Unless you have very, very positive control over the blade location relative to the table, your 'kerf slot' in the sled may or may not be in the same exact location on each installation of the sled.

I solve this 'uncertainty' by 1) having a stop block to control the distance of the headstock to the carriage, plus 2) for super accurate alignment of the desired cut line I use ¼ MDF glued to the sled surface butted up against the fence using double back sticky tape. BB stores have light duty tape that works fine for this.

The length and width of the MDF depends on your particular stock being cut, but MDF is pretty cheap and after one pass without any wood you have a 'super accurate' guide for where the blade will cut your stock.

Remove it before the next use (denatured alcohol makes clean up of tape residue easy) and apply more.

Forrest

I make my own (zero clearance inserts) ZCI, partially for this very reason. They soon cease to be zero clearance.

While they are still good, however, I use the ZCI to set blade location during setup. Simply pull the ZCI and then relocate the carriage, headstock and quill setting. Drop the ZCI down on the blade. If everything is aligned, the ZCI will drop right into the cutout in the table. If not, the blade can be relocated with the quill until it does.

I have a ZCI, made using 3/4" MDF, that is often used in this manner to align the table to the blade. The ZCI was cut at a time when I know the table was aligned as precisely as I could get it. Using the "reference ZCI" as my guide, if the ZCI dropped into the cutout, the table is aligned. If not, I loosen the four trunnion bolts and move the table around so that the ZCI does drop into the cutout. Tighten the trunnion bolts, double check to make certain the table has not moved and you are done.

You won't get absolute precision this way but the results are accurate enough to do most table saw work as accurately as most of us need. I use a standard of within +- .005" for this alignment.

This thread discusses three different and equally accurate ways to adjust table to blade.

http://www.shopsmith.com/ss_forum/viewt ... CI#p155532

This thread is an excellent guide to making your own ZCI. I am always favorably impressed by the threads posted by reible.

http://www.shopsmith.com/ss_forum/viewtopic.php?t=5117

This thread includes another of my postings on this subject.

http://www.shopsmith.com/ss_forum/viewtopic.php?t=10868

dusty wrote: Whatever you do, it can be hazardous. Keep your wit about you and do not work with distractions in the shop!

I agree that more exposure can equal less tearout. I operate somewhat like Dusty (w/ more exposure).

I also agree it is more dangerous, bringing up a conclusion born of experience and deep thinking: NEVER think anything you do after turning on power is Safe, and never never never say "well I've never had a problem with it before".

Thanks guys one and all!

Great information. One thing I HAVE learned is that you really really have to concentrate on where and what the wood is doing during a machining process, mostly on the table saw. Thanks dusty, I really appreciate the no distractions mantra. I will apply that to the operations.