Shopsmith Forums

So you now have your extension made but when you try to attach it, whoops it will not fit!!!!!

This is where you get to go from a beginner to a real woodworker, a problem solver, a person of knowledge, one that can impress friends and county. OK maybe I got carried away there.

What you don't want to do is put the extension in the trash and think of yourself as a loser, worthless... well let's stop there.

How did it happen? Sometime you can figure it out other times just don't know, the point is not to linger to long on this part of the experience, after all you still want to get a working extension.

For purposes of this post we are going to say the 1-1/2" distance was fine but you somehow were off on the distance between hole.

Could have been an inch

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Or maybe just an 1/8", doesn't mater much we need to fix it.

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In any case we need to get back to the same setup we used to drill the countersunk holes the first time. Since we have the correct fence distance we can use the existing hole to get back to this. Put the same 5/8" bit in and slowly lower it into the existing hole, take your time you might find it goes easy or it may take some playing with.

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Lock the quill in that position and then adjust the fence so the edge of the workpiece touches along its whole edge. When you get it right lock the fence in place and test by withdrawing the bit and seeing if it goes back in the hole with the work piece against the fence. It might be hard the first few times but again it is one of those things that are helpful to learn.

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Before you move on you can also adjust the depth of cut, with the bit bottomed out set the depth stop.

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Before we can go on we need to talk about how to fill the existing holes so the final project will look reasonably good. That is fine for this project but if you use this as a learning tool you might find even fine woodworking projects or repairs. So keep reading.

Ed

The easy way to do this is to plug the hole. You might want to use some wood filler, or maybe you have a tool like this that cuts plugs, and tenon dowels. If you were to have some of the wood left over after the project the plug cutter would allow you to match things up pretty well. In this case the grain is very different so it is not much of a match.

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Most beginners are not going to have this but might have a simple plug cutter. Pictured is just one of the styles on the market. They work by cutting the wood like a drill bit but leaving the center portion to be used as a plug. In this photo I cut this plug in some plywood to show you an example.

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Other options might be more attractive to you. Dowels come to mind and they do come in oak so you might get a good enough match... or go contrasting color. In this case I'm trying to make it easier to see. You can of course make your own dowels on the lathe or for those that can a router works for that too.

Dowels don't come in all sizes or you may not have the correct size in the shop so you can always turn a larger one into a smaller one. Today I looked in my coffee can of stub downs and found this piece.

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More details to follow.

Ed

This is where the director yells cut and the stand-in/stunt person comes in to do the scene. Or perhaps you will not notice when the new "Darrin" shows up in the next pictures.

In this shot we see that we have found the hole to be off by 1/8".

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We have picked a dowel of the correct size, now it needs to be glued in place. Make sure it is bottomed out in the hole and you have enough glue on the sides of the hole and not too much on the bottom as it will come out the through hole and can make a mess.

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Wait for the glue to set for a moment and check the underside and make sure you are not having glue problems there. We didn't talk about the through hole but you will want to patch that as well. It is a 1/4" and again a dowel works well. When you flip it over you many find you have enough glue coming out to just stick the dowel in and give it a twist or two to spread things around enough.

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After the glue is set you can cut the dowel off flush with the surface on both sides. I have a flexible no-set saw that is made for this. You may have to make do with a regular saw and sand flush. So here a shot of the dowel cut off and the saw that did it.

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With the plugs in place you now re-drill the holes at the correct location. Do make sure you get it right this time will you.

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I've run out of room for pictures on this post so just one more should about do.

Ed

Very nice detailed explanation(s), Ed!

Yes, I always use an extension on my miter guage. I use the one sold by Shopsmith in the last few years. It is about 20" long and mounts either from the left or right side. One feature I like the most is the adhesive backed sandpaper on the face of the extension. This surface stops all slippage. I also like the slots on the top of the extension to hold a stop block if needed.

The last picture is just adding the bolt so you can see a little better how this ends.

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So I think this about all the stuff I've got for you.

Going to retire for a while and get some real things done, but I will check in from time to time to see if anyone has questions.

Ed

BTW if I get some free time I might show you a makers mark I've used using much of the dowel ideas that were shown here. Simple and fun.

Ed,

Very nice job with the explanation! As a newbie I read the posts on this site several times a week to learn how to become a woodworker and expert ShopSmith user. Your post was like attending a workshop. Thank you so much!

I am still at the point where I make more mistakes than "successes" on my first try, but I guess that is part of the learning experience. I am learning that accurately measuring things is the foundation of a good project. I have also learned that it is a skill that must be practiced.

Because of guys like you, this website is like getting a degree in woodworking! Jon

Again you have been of great service to this forum! Great job! The subject item is useful and the techniques used for layout a great education for those not previously exposed to the thought processes required for accurate layout.

I only have one 'detail' to add to this excellent thread.

When seating the carriage bolts the first time, orient the square shank so that the resulting square indentations in the workpiece are positioned so that the sides do not align with the grain. Then firmly seat them with a mallet(or hammer and scrap if ya ain't gots one). This tends to give more end grain for the corners to push against when the knurled nuts are tightened.

By seating them at first, you eliminate future creep as the square shank gradually descends into the wood during use and minimize the possibility of them slipping. It is nicer if they stay put when the nut is loosened.

I rarely cross cut without an extension and have made many over the years(I still have my 'SS original').

Again Great Job! I know the effort taken!


P.S. I also use a flat washer between the nut and the slot on the back of the miter gauge.

Excellant thread sir, sometimes the basics are best, and with pictures is a must for me.
Please do more of these, I can't imagine how time consuming that was.....very appreciated though I'm sure. Can't wait to read the next chapter.