Shopsmith Forums

I know the past owner originally had a Model 500, upgraded it to a 510, and eventually upgraded it to a 520. I will probably eventually tap the main table to put a screw in the middle hole of the rail. I will probably wait until I get the Rip Scale upgrade because I think it comes with a new set of rails.

The screws that are now holding the motor pan appear to be a little small and are not engaging the clips with enough force. So I either need to get a little bit bigger screws or buy a set from Shopsmith.

I can only guess that when the past owner replaced the original one bearing quill with the new two bearing quill that they put the new plastic piece on the end of the quill and force it until it pushed it into the quill. the quill actually turns really easy. I was looking at the quill a little closer than normal because I noticed that the quill was not returning all the way back into the headstock. It was about 1/4" from returning all the way back.

I plan on taking the entire headstock apart before putting it into operation. My other headstock on my Model 500 is in tip-top shape after doing a complete breakdown when I had to replace a couple of bearings in it. So I will trade out headstocks so I can use the 520 tables.

wa2crk wrote:JPG
Will you please advise in the future when you are posting so that we don't double up.
Bill

IMHO the more responses from differing sources the better!

I may start a response, then have to pull away to tend to loml and finish it later. This causes a reply that appears after others more quick on the draw.

No problem as far as I am concerned.

PAX!:)

aloibl wrote:I know the past owner originally had a Model 500, upgraded it to a 510, and eventually upgraded it to a 520. I will probably eventually tap the main table to put a screw in the middle hole of the rail. I will probably wait until I get the Rip Scale upgrade because I think it comes with a new set of rails.

The screws that are now holding the motor pan appear to be a little small and are not engaging the clips with enough force. So I either need to get a little bit bigger screws or buy a set from Shopsmith.

I can only guess that when the past owner replaced the original one bearing quill with the new two bearing quill that they put the new plastic piece on the end of the quill and force it until it pushed it into the quill. the quill actually turns really easy. I was looking at the quill a little closer than normal because I noticed that the quill was not returning all the way back into the headstock. It was about 1/4" from returning all the way back. Gee I wonder what is causing that!:D

I plan on taking the entire headstock apart before putting it into operation. My other headstock on my Model 500 is in tip-top shape after doing a complete breakdown when I had to replace a couple of bearings in it. So I will trade out headstocks so I can use the 520 tables.

Since the spring clip that usually secures the sleeve to the main shaft is facing out, you may be able to pull it out by snagging onto that lip/spring.

You will have to remove the plastic like Drive and Ring Assembly from within the quill. This I never seen before. I use #10 X 5/8" SS sheet metal screws for all the clip-ons for my rebuilt headstocks to hold the motor pan and belt housing.

Bill thanks for the advice on the screws for the motor pan!

They had the demo for the latest Shopsmith at a Lowe's here in Austin yesterday. After seeing the demonstration I plan on taking this current head-stock completely apart, including the quill in order to get the plastic part out of it, and if there is nothing seriously wrong with it I will put it together and use it on my Model 500 unit for now. But I will probably get the Power-Pro upgrade and install it into this head-stock hopefully by the end of the year. And probably install a 220V receptacle so I can take advantage of the 2HP rating of the Power-Pro at 220V.

Took apart the quill and finally got the plastic drive assembly pulled out of the quill. Picture attached. It has gotten hot as you can tell the plastic was hot enough to flow a little bit.

aloibl wrote:Took apart the quill and finally got the plastic drive assembly pulled out of the quill. Picture attached. It has gotten hot as you can tell the plastic was hot enough to flow a little bit.

That is one for the stupid PO tricks!!!:eek:

At this point, I would plan on changing out the idle shaft bearings. That much heat had to do some damage.

Stupid is when you think about it and then do it anyway. Ignorant is when you did not know better than to do it. I prefer to think the PO was ignorant of good machine practices.

We all start equally ignorant and then become less so as we learn from our mistakes. The brilliant amongst us have just been exposed to more learning experiences.

wa2crk wrote: It looks like the table and the 520 rails were different versions. The 520 upgrade kits were sold in two versions, one for an earlier table and one for a later version. I know because my upgrade was sent for the different version that I did not have and this resulted in having one extra hole in the main table rails. No harm done except that I have one empty hole in the rail.
Bill V

Bill, you are correct. There was a change around 1985/1986 on the rails. The original tubes had holes in the sides for screws that were threaded into the tables. The new ones now have a thru hole in which the tubes have welded bolts for attachment with a nut on the back side. The newer tubes allow a bit more room for adjusting the tables so they are level to each other. I have the old styles and never really could get them to adjust properly. One way to fix this problem is to drill out the threaded part with a letter "J" drill. You can find the newer tubes listed on ebay for really cheap prices. Now one can update the tables to the newer tubes. One more thing one has to watch out for it the large work table was also changed. The older one had 3 flathead screws that attached to the table. The one in the middle was centered in the tube. The newer ones had the screws welded to the tubes and attached with nuts. The center hole is now offset by about one inch. I bought the newest table from ebay that has the offset center hole.

Another thing Shopsmith changed was the Jack Screws. These are the screws that tighten the rails to the tubes. The newer ones are much larger in diameter and a bit easier to tighten.

Or better yet just buy the Pro Fence System 510 to 520 upgrade and get rid of the tubes altogether. You will still have to let Shopsmith know table system you have. (pre 1986 or post 1986). I think the newest upgrade is far superior to the old tubes.