Shopsmith Forums

I've been reading this thread with interest, but there seems to be some confusion afoot.

First, if cutting from the end of the rail, the required depth of cut is only 1-1/8". No problem for a saw blade.

As for the router approach, I checked out that end-mill store web site. After filtering the diameters down to 3/32" only, the longest non-tapered flute length I could find was 3/8". But the shanks are 1/8" diameter, so you can't go much deeper by doing multiple passes.

Personally, I'd do it on a RAS. Because then you slot the endgrain by moving the blade, instead of that long bedrail. And because I've got 'em.

true,,, however a saw blade is normally 1/8 in wide so the fit will be lose ,I dont think you want the cut to go all the way through the end it will weaken the wood.

the only support you have would be the 2 pins .

If you lay the board flat and drill it from the side,,, not the end ,,,,a 3/32 x 3' end mill or a 3/32 brad point drill bit should work .

Any clean up could be done with a knife not a chisel.

I suppose there would be a number of ways to do it.

Brad Point Drill Bit, HSS, 3/32 in
https://www.grainger.com/product/EAZYPO ... Bit-19TG88

Or

You could just by the tool from rockler

http://www.rockler.com/freud-63-100-slo ... -1-4-shank

Hobbyman2 wrote:Or

You could just by the tool from rockler

http://www.rockler.com/freud-63-100-slo ... -1-4-shank

A slotting router bit like that was my first thought as well. BUT, that one only cuts 9/16" deep slots, max. I couldn't find any that cut deep enough -- it would take about a 3" diameter.

Standard thin-kerf saw blades have a 3/32" kerf width (like all the blades currently sold Shopsmith), which is perfect for this. And if you want a smaller radius on the end of the slot, you can mount a smaller blade, like this 5-3/8" Makita.

Now I must admit that a 3/32" brad point bit should get you there -- eventually. You could probably fashion a cleanup tool from a saw blade or some such.

Or a 3/32" drill bit ground like an end mill/router bit.

BuckeyeDennis wrote:

Hobbyman2 wrote:Or

You could just by the tool from rockler

http://www.rockler.com/freud-63-100-slo ... -1-4-shank

A slotting router bit like that was my first thought as well. BUT, that one only cuts 9/16" deep slots, max. I couldn't find any that cut deep enough -- it would take about a 3" diameter.

Standard thin-kerf saw blades have a 3/32" kerf width (like all the blades currently sold Shopsmith), which is perfect for this. And if you want a smaller radius on the end of the slot, you can mount a smaller blade, like this 5-3/8" Makita.

Now I must admit that a 3/32" brad point bit should get you there -- eventually. You could probably fashion a cleanup tool from a saw blade or some such.

----------------

My bad I thought they had different dia cutters and rollers for the router bit.

After checking back in to the thread it looks like my idea is not getting any traction which is too bad because it is really the simple easy way of getting this done.

For those who want to drill holes, 37 of them per joint....... have fun with that. Then you still have to clean it up.

Router bits of 1/8" and below are a pain to work with and the deeper the joint the worse they become. If you have ever used them then you know.

If you could get a bit slot bit large enough that would work, 1-1/8" is pretty deep, much deeper then anything I own. And if you did this you would need a wider area to set the router on, much wider then is easy to do. Keep in mind the center of the router would be floating in air unless you do.

Yes a RAS would work if you have one. More likely one has a circular saw. BTW the one I did the cut with is a Porter Cable Saw Boss with 6" blade. That does as was indicated reduce the unneeded kerf cut, the smaller the blade the better for that purpose.

Anyway if I had to do this it really clear to me that what I did as a demo would work fine and be the way I would go in real life. Those who think other wise give your method a try and report back, or better yet give my method a try and report back.

Ed

FWIW, I like your method!

This amazes me. This disappoints me.

We did all of this without any information on the "hook plates". We know not whether there would be physical interference in an end cut kerf and yet that method (introduced by reible) has been rejected.

It is sometimes important to fully understand the problem before a complete solution can be determined.

If you really want to do this using your Shopsmith, it can be done and done safely. If concerned about the void space that would created by cutting the slot as depicted here, that void can be filled by gluing in an appropriately sized filler also shown here.

I did the same thing on a bed a few years ago and did it just like reible and dusty posted. It was quite easy using the saw.