Shopsmith Forums

dusty wrote:I did not annotate that dimension. I apologize. The holes are 1 3/4" in diameter.

Dusty, after a while, I probably could have figured out that dimension!, but thanks for the confirmation. Hank

hjlssfor1 wrote:Dusty, many thanks. I think I can figure it out, but I have to check to see how big a forstner bit I have. Hank

If you have a bandsaw or scroll saw and a small sanding drum, you don't need a large forstner bit.

Admittedly, I drilled the holes, even in the original pattern, but they could very easily be cut out with the bandsaw and then cleaned up with the drum sander.

Dusty, I like the wooden plug you're using with the stabilizing bar. I sure beats using an auxiliary table or the lathe tail stock. I'll have to make two to support my plywood brace.

pennview wrote:Dusty, I like the wooden plug you're using with the stabilizing bar. I sure beats using an auxiliary table or the lathe tail stock. I'll have to make two to support my plywood brace.

Thank you. It is a small thing but I get a kick out doing things like that rather than buying something or using something manufactured.

For this particular application, I am going to replace the "stick" with a small panel that will span both of those plugs. I think it might better stabilize the table.

I think you'll find that the panel works well. I gave the dimensions of mine in post #20 of this thread.

pennview wrote:I think you'll find that the panel works well. I gave the dimensions of mine in post #20 of this thread.

Pennview, I am struggling to get my mind around your description in Post #20. Any chance you could post a photo? Thanks, Hank

Take a look at Dusty's brace in post #22. His is narrow, about a couple inches wide, and the two ends have single bevels. My brace is simply a piece of 3/4" birch plywood 11 inches wide by 17 inches long. Where Dusty's has a single bevel on the two ends, mine has double bevels or chamfers on the two ends. Instead of those bevels causing a point on the end, there is a flat there, similar to half a hexigon.

The two ends would look something like this -- / \ , where Dusty's looks like \

Let me know if this helps. If not, I'll take the picture.

pennview wrote:Take a look at Dusty's brace in post #22. His is narrow, about a couple inches wide, and the two ends have single bevels. My brace is simply a piece of 3/4" birch plywood 11 inches wide by 17 inches long. Where Dusty's has a single bevel on the two ends, mine has double bevels or chamfers on the two ends. Instead of those bevels causing a point on the end, there is a flat there, similar to half a hexigon.

The two ends would look something like this -- / \ , where Dusty's looks like \

Let me know if this helps. If not, I'll take the picture.

Your approach is definitely the right way.

I guess I could explain that "mine is just a prototype". A proof of concept if you will.

Actually, this is an example of one of my greatest weaknesses. I am impatient and often do things the quick and dirty way. All too often, I never get back to doing it right.

Here are two shots of the down and dirty way to do this.

[ATTACH]17952[/ATTACH]

[ATTACH]17953[/ATTACH]

pennview wrote:Take a look at Dusty's brace in post #22. His is narrow, about a couple inches wide, and the two ends have single bevels. My brace is simply a piece of 3/4" birch plywood 11 inches wide by 17 inches long. Where Dusty's has a single bevel on the two ends, mine has double bevels or chamfers on the two ends. Instead of those bevels causing a point on the end, there is a flat there, similar to half a hexigon.

The two ends would look something like this -- / \ , where Dusty's looks like \

Let me know if this helps. If not, I'll take the picture.

Thanks, Pennview and Dusty. I now understand.

Using Dusty's jigs to fix the height of the table, how about building a fixed-height leg support that would go straight down to the floor from the outboard end of the table top? I realize that this version would give up flexibility (the leg support would work at only one table top height), but would a straight leg to the floor be stronger than the the angled support piece? I am thinking about mortising needing good support.

Hank

As you suggest, a brace between the table and floor will give you the best support. If you want to use square mortising bits, one method would be a piece of 4x4 (or 2x4) running under the table to the floor that is placed directly under the quill. On its own, the table is generally too flexible for mortising. A post is easily bumped and knocked out of the way, but the diagonal support is nice because it give adequate support for most drilling operations.