Shopsmith Forums

While doing the latest project, I checked my fence to keep it square to the blade but the lower lock always throws the opposite end of the fence to my left. This is annoying when setting up for a precise cut. The top lock (back) just holds it where ever the lower (front) lock tells it to. I started noticing that the lock does not keep it square a great deal of the time, so I must check every single cut for square. (thats not right) I know I can adjust the spring tension but how can this be adjusted to where when you lock it, its square? Isn't that one of its primary functions??

mrhart wrote:While doing the latest project, I checked my fence to keep it square to the blade but the lower lock always throws the opposite end of the fence to my left. This is annoying when setting up for a precise cut. The top lock (back) just holds it where ever the lower (front) lock tells it to. I started noticing that the lock does not keep it square a great deal of the time, so I must check every single cut for square. (thats not right) I know I can adjust the spring tension but how can this be adjusted to where when you lock it, its square? Isn't that one of its primary functions??

Make sure the front is registering properly. Make sure the bias screws are fully retracted(if not a 520).

Yes all it should do is clamp down, not skew it. Only the front is supposed to control angular positioning.

If a 510, the back fence 'rest' may be misaligned(s/b parallel to and directly on top of the tube.)

mrhart wrote:While doing the latest project, I checked my fence to keep it square to the blade but the lower lock always throws the opposite end of the fence to my left. This is annoying when setting up for a precise cut. The top lock (back) just holds it where ever the lower (front) lock tells it to. I started noticing that the lock does not keep it square a great deal of the time, so I must check every single cut for square. (thats not right) I know I can adjust the spring tension but how can this be adjusted to where when you lock it, its square? Isn't that one of its primary functions??

As statesd, the bottom lock should square the fence with the table (in accordance with the way it was aligned!!!). The upper lock should then secure the outfeed end of the fence WITHOUT MOVING IT.

If it moves when you secure it, or does not secure properly - you have maintenance to do.

The first thing that I would suspect is the rubber boot on the lock bar.

[ATTACH]19182[/ATTACH]

[ATTACH]19183[/ATTACH]

Start by letting us know what model you have, as 500 vs. 510 and later models have different fence clamping mechanisms.

mrhart wrote:While doing the latest project, I checked my fence to keep it square to the blade but the lower lock always throws the opposite end of the fence to my left. This is annoying when setting up for a precise cut. The top lock (back) just holds it where ever the lower (front) lock tells it to. I started noticing that the lock does not keep it square a great deal of the time, so I must check every single cut for square. (thats not right) I know I can adjust the spring tension but how can this be adjusted to where when you lock it, its square? Isn't that one of its primary functions??

If you are using your 520 fence and the lower lock is throwing it out of square then the fence probably is out of square to start with. The lower lock is the one to square the fence while the upper lock limits deflection. The 520 fence has 4 button head screws on top that you loosen to square the fence while the lower lock is locked. When positioning the 520 fence you press on both sides of the base against the fence rail. This way the fence will not shift when locked in place.

It is a 520 so it grabs the rail with a flat bar over 2 inches long probably.

So you're saying lock the lower lock and with the sanding disk maybe on board, loosen screws on the top of the fence, square up, and retighten?

I guess I've never noticed any screws on top before. I'll look this evening.

How easy should it be to lock the lower handle when properly adjusted? Lever should go all the way down like my upper lever?

mrhart wrote:It is a 520 so it grabs the rail with a flat bar over 2 inches long probably.

So you're saying lock the lower lock and with the sanding disk maybe on board, loosen screws on the top of the fence, square up, and retighten?

I guess I've never noticed any screws on top before. I'll look this evening.

How easy should it be to lock the lower handle when properly adjusted? Lever should go all the way down like my upper lever?

Since in the alignment process the table and miter slots have been aligned to the blade or disc, I usually lock the fence flush to the edge of the miter slot. Then loosen the 4 screws and adjust the fence so it is flush to the slot. Tighten the screws and recheck. Both locks should be just tight enough to keep the fence from slipping with the levers down.

I tried many diffferent materials on the 510 fence end arm without success. The only way I could keep the 510 fence from moving was to use a 10"-12" adjustable wooden clamp to clamp the fence end to the table rail. This worked every time with no slipage of the fence even when the fence was being bumped/hit with the wood beening ripped or cut. Only took a few seconds to reclamp if I needed to move the fence. I thought about adding a slide block to the clamp to slide and lock onto the fence but upgraded to the 520.

I have a hard time understanding this discussion about the rip fence not withstanding the "lateral forces" that are being applied to it while performing rip cuts.

Why is it necessary to apply that much side force to the rip fence? Keep the stock tight against the fence but......

I did as suggested and the problem is better but not eliminated. When I clamp the fence down it still pulls the far end a little left as it clamps. Does anyone else experience this?
If I adjust the lower clamp to where the handle goes almost all the way down, it isn't grabbing the aluminum rail very tight and will with use. No major lateral force, just use.
Any ideas?