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New 510 owner intro and Maintenance question

Posted: Fri Sep 20, 2013 10:42 am
by davisionz
Hello All,

I just purchased an unused 510 from ebay. The power chord is still in the zip tie and the factory warning labels are still on the equipment. The package included the DC3300 (slightly used), table extensions, and also the bandsaw. The list of accessories that came with it was quite long. It included everything I needed to get started.

I am coming from all entry level craftsman gear but have had limited space in which to work. My wife has always wanted to use the garage for the car (who does that? :eek: ). With my kids getting older, their bikes and toys and such in the garage are getting larger, my space is dwindling these days.

I have read much over the last few years about the shopsmith system but never had the joy of getting to see one in action. I purchased a 20" shopsmith Standalone scroll saw for $40 a couple years ago. At the time i purchased it, it was in need of repair. I called up customer service for shopsmith, they helped me find all the parts I needed to get it going and even pointed out the improved blade change system (far easier blade changes now). It still runs like new and has become my favorite tool.

I can't wait to spend some time in front of the 510 and sell off all my old entry level tools. (selling those was mandated as part of my purchase)

Back to where I was going with this... Since it is unused but has been sitting for years, I wondered what maintenance you guys might recommend before I fire this puppy up?

Posted: Fri Sep 20, 2013 11:13 am
by beeg
For a start. I'd say wax it, oil it and then align it. Then enjoy it.

Posted: Fri Sep 20, 2013 12:16 pm
by billmayo
I do this to any headstock not operated in the past 6 months. Do not operate the headstock first. I recommend turning the speed control to FAST while hand rotating the quill. This helps prevent the motor belt from sticking to the sheaves and helps reseat the motor belt. Then use 12 to 20 drops of oil in the control sheave hole and 4 to 6 drops of oil in the motor floating sheave oil hole. Use a flat blade screwdriver to move the spring to get to the motor floating sheave oil hole. I put another 4 to 6 drops on the exposed motor shaft and key. I slowly turn the speed control from FAST to SLOW and back to FAST while the motor is operating. Then repeat the above oiling again. You cannot over oil the headstock. I find most headstock problems are from the lack of too little oil or no oil being used. I use the Zoom Spout Turbine Oil bottle from ACE or big box stores. You need the zoom spout to get the oil in the control sheave oil hole.

Posted: Fri Sep 20, 2013 1:36 pm
by Bill F.
For what it's worth, I spent weeks reading everything out there that is shopsmith related before I got my 510 home. The top post in the Maintance and Repair section covers everything. I wish that I found that post first.

https://forum.shopsmith.com/viewtopic.php?t=7092

Other random tip; I found a 3-1 oil can with a built in 6" extentable spout that was perfect for oiling the top sheve.

Posted: Fri Sep 20, 2013 3:54 pm
by JPG
I am surprised Bill did not tout belt conditioner.(as he has on several occasions)

When 'set' for long periods, the belt takes a set and runs 'wobbley'. Belt conditioner softens them and greatly reduces the wobbley.

It took me a while to try it. I am now a believer!!!:cool:

Any belts I get(new or used) get 'conditioned' and turned inside out until used. That includes v, poly-v, and gilmer belts.

P.S. 3 in 1 is good(if ya can tolerate the stink!)

Posted: Fri Sep 20, 2013 9:42 pm
by davisionz
I've read all the earnings about not turning the speed selector while motor is off, but I worry that someone over the past few years may have done so. Anything I can check to verify that I don't do any damage when I turn it on?

Posted: Fri Sep 20, 2013 10:04 pm
by algale
davisionz wrote:I've read all the earnings about not turning the speed selector while motor is off, but I worry that someone over the past few years may have done so. Anything I can check to verify that I don't do any damage when I turn it on?
Sure, watch this video on replacing the speed control. http://www.shopsmithacademy.com/SS_Arch ... hanger.htm.

If there's wear on the quadrant/porkchop teeth, you may be able to file things and reuse it. To prevent return of problem, contact member Bill Mayo for his free fix kit.

Posted: Sat Sep 21, 2013 12:30 pm
by billmayo
JPG40504 wrote:I am surprised Bill did not tout belt conditioner.(as he has on several occasions)

When 'set' for long periods, the belt takes a set and runs 'wobbley'. Belt conditioner softens them and greatly reduces the wobbley.

It took me a while to try it. I am now a believer!!!:cool:

Any belts I get(new or used) get 'conditioned' and turned inside out until used. That includes v, poly-v, and gilmer belts.

P.S. 3 in 1 is good(if ya can tolerate the stink!)
I find the belt conditioner really works well on the bandsaw black tires. It prevents them from checking and cracking while leaving a some what softer surface on the tires.

Posted: Sun Sep 22, 2013 10:54 am
by db5
billmayo wrote:I find the belt conditioner really works well on the bandsaw black tires. It prevents them from checking and cracking while leaving a some what softer surface on the tires.
I have some belt dressing that I used on an OLD car that used a V belt. Is that what you refer to as belt conditioner or is there something special we need to know about?

Posted: Sun Sep 22, 2013 11:53 am
by JPG
db5 wrote:I have some belt dressing that I used on an OLD car that used a V belt. Is that what you refer to as belt conditioner or is there something special we need to know about?
Same Stuff! Same belt material(rubber/textile cords).