Page 1 of 2

ripping and crosscut blade settings

Posted: Fri Dec 26, 2014 4:04 pm
by rjent
OK, I know that exposing the blade is dangerous. However, it does beg the question:

Do you get better cuts with the blade set high (table lowered for more blade exposure) or does it matter to just expose the blade enough to get a through cut

I get periodic tearouts on the trailing edge of the board and was just wondering if the blade position/entry was making any difference.

Thanks in advance!

Re: ripping and crosscut blade settings

Posted: Fri Dec 26, 2014 4:43 pm
by dusty
Exposing more of the blade may reduce the tear out but even if it does I do not believe that is a reasonable exchange. With more blade exposed, there is a greater chance of unintentional contact.

Now, having said that, I must admit that I operate most of the time with far more blade exposed than is needed. I do that for the convenience of not having to readjust the depth of cut when I mount and dismount my sliding cross-cut table. The cross-cut table is 3/4" thick. Most of my work is on 3/4" thick work pieces. I expose about 2" of the blade so as to have 1/2" exposure with the cross-cut sled.

Ripping is another matter because the cross-cut sled is never involved.

Whatever you do, it can be hazardous. Keep your wit about you and do not work with distractions in the shop!

Re: ripping and crosscut blade settings

Posted: Fri Dec 26, 2014 6:21 pm
by charlese
rjent wrote:OK, I know that exposing the blade is dangerous. However, it does beg the question:

Do you get better cuts with the blade set high (table lowered for more blade exposure) or does it matter to just expose the blade enough to get a through cut

I get periodic tearouts on the trailing edge of the board and was just wondering if the blade position/entry was making any difference.

Thanks in advance!
------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Sounds like you are speaking of cross cutting. If so, just slow down your cut. Move the board slower through the end of the cut. Let the saw cut off most of the splinters.
---

Re: ripping and crosscut blade settings

Posted: Fri Dec 26, 2014 7:49 pm
by edflorence
charlese wrote: ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Move the board slower through the end of the cut. Let the saw cut off most of the splinters.
---

and perhaps try cross-cutting in two cuts instead of one...that is, cut within an eighth or so of the line on the first cut and then finish with a second cut right to the line moving, as noted, slowly, especially towards the end of the cut.

Re: ripping and crosscut blade settings

Posted: Fri Dec 26, 2014 8:28 pm
by algale
A wood backer board attached to the miter and extending beyond the cut will serve as a backer and prevent any tear out.

Re: ripping and crosscut blade settings

Posted: Fri Dec 26, 2014 8:45 pm
by charlese
algale wrote:A wood backer board attached to the miter and extending beyond the cut will serve as a backer and prevent any tear out.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

That's the best way! :D Wish I'd said that!

-------------------------------

Re: ripping and crosscut blade settings

Posted: Fri Dec 26, 2014 11:11 pm
by forrestb
algale is correct that one of the best ways to prevent blowout is a backer board and a zero clearance insert (kind of like a backer board for the bottom).

When setting blade height, the blade should be above the wood but only to the bottom of the gullets between the teeth. At least, that is the advice I keep seeing on the subject and that is what I do.

Forrest

Re: ripping and crosscut blade settings

Posted: Fri Dec 26, 2014 11:19 pm
by rjent
Wow, good info guys. Thanks!

I will try all of the above.

Dusty, is there a thread pertaining to your "sled" that you may have shared? :D

All of you, again, thanks!

BTW, yes Charlese, cross cutting is where the problem always is. Rips are like glass!

Re: ripping and crosscut blade settings

Posted: Sat Dec 27, 2014 4:41 am
by dusty
rjent: yes, there are some. I'll try to locate them and post a link.

One of the more important features of a sled is its' adjust ability. If the fence is not square to the blade when you are using it, the sled is about useless. For that purpose, I find this post to be very informative.

http://wnwoodworkingschool.com/5-cuts-t ... -cut-sled/

I thought I had done a blow-by-blow on the building of a cross-cut sled but I must not have. I don't even have good photos of the sled that I use all the time. This is the best I have. It is built entirely of 1/2" baltic birch plywood except for the runners and this sled uses runners purchased from Shopsmith. Making the sled using wooden runners would be just as good.

Re: ripping and crosscut blade settings

Posted: Sat Dec 27, 2014 10:33 am
by forrestb
Not as nice as Dusty's, but FWW does have some articles on making one. You might start here:

http://www.finewoodworking.com/item/390 ... sscut-sled

Search on "crosscut sle" for more. Nope, I didn't forget the "d" at the end. For some reason I get better search results this way :confused:

Forrest