Shopsmith Forums

I did some searching for this and couldn't find what I needed. I have made a box joint jig like shown in the Woodworking for everyone book. Everything is fine, using a dado to cut the "fingers/gaps". My problem is that the joints are too tight. I can't get my mind around how you can open the gap without increasing the finger ...

What am I doing wrong. They are so tight that I can't get them to seat well, and there is no way any glue is going to be in them .... Help!

I should look this up because my memory isn't what it use to be but hey fools rush in don't they.

The spacing between the key and blade isn't right. You will need to get the key closer to the blade by a small amount. The parts should slide together with minor pressure. Once the glue gets put on they swell and you will never get them together if they are too tight.

OK I hope I'm remembering this right.

Ed

Ed beat me to this by a few minutes = His answer is correct.

Move the guide peg (key) about a paper width closer to the blade. I found the best way to do this is a tap with a light hammer or screwdriver handle. Then the trials begin.

LOL, the book makes it look so easy .....

Is using the router easier?

Edit, a thought. can moving the blade (with the quill) a hair toward the key do the same thing?

rjent wrote:LOL, the book makes it look so easy .....

Is using the router easier?

Edit, a thought. can moving the blade (with the quill) a hair toward the key do the same thing?

a) router easier? Depends what you're used to.
b) Don't try to adjust the blade. Distance is too unpredictable.

charlese wrote:

rjent wrote:LOL, the book makes it look so easy .....

Is using the router easier?

Edit, a thought. can moving the blade (with the quill) a hair toward the key do the same thing?

a) router easier? Depends what you're used to.
b) Don't try to adjust the blade. Distance is too unpredictable.

OK, thanks guys, I will prevail tomorrow ....

Right now, I am going to bed .....

Some where in my vast amount of saved items is my instructions that I wrote up when I made my first jig to cut box joints. This was pre shopsmith and I was pretty much on my own to come up with how to do it.

The first cut you make in the jig can be just about anywhere but the next cut has to be right on. Getting that spacing right is in my mind the critical controlling factor. You get that wrong and you have to do a second jig.

I think your issue is one that can be solved yet. You need to move the key closer to the blade by a couple of thousands of an inch, think about the thickness of a sheet of paper.

Good idea to use some scrap wood to get things setup.

I've done the joints on the table saw and with a router, not much difference in how well one works over another if you are making your own jig to cut them. If you buy one then you will still need to tweak the set up in most cases.

I did a bird house using box joints just to play with the incra box joint(ibox) jig I purchased. That seem to work well and now I have that in my collection of tools to use. Before that I would make a jig up and use it once then make another when I needed to make more joints. I still have a couple of them laying around here somewhere. That was the problem, I'd loose them when I needed them so it was faster to make another then spend too much time looking for the last one.

Anyway this is the bird house:
Ed

rjent wrote:LOL, the book makes it look so easy .....

Is using the router easier?

Edit, a thought. can moving the blade (with the quill) a hair toward the key do the same thing?

Yes you can. Loosen the quill feed, advance the quill slightly, slip a piece of paper (or a feeler gauge) between the headstock casing and the rubber bumper on the end of the quill, release the quill to trap the paper/feeler gauge, and lock it back in place. You can make very minute adjustments this way.

Very good tip, Ed!!!!! Never thought of that! We can always learn though.

algale wrote:

rjent wrote:LOL, the book makes it look so easy .....

Is using the router easier?

Edit, a thought. can moving the blade (with the quill) a hair toward the key do the same thing?

Yes you can. Loosen the quill feed, advance the quill slightly, slip a piece of paper (or a feeler gauge) between the headstock casing and the rubber bumper on the end of the quill, release the quill to trap the paper/feeler gauge, and lock it back in place. You can make very minute adjustments this way.

That did it Ed! Thanks!

I did it a little different by putting a dial indicator with a magnetic base on the miter gauge, loosened the quill lock just enough, and tapped the handle to get the 2 thousands (it actually took 3 ). Made the most beautiful joint, I will post up some pics when done. This is so cool ... this is my first box joint LOL. I am making a custom remote control holder for the table I built earlier this year.

Thanks everyone, again, great group here, lots of great ideas and advice/knowledge (not to mention what a great machine these SS's are) ....