Shopsmith Forums

so im sure this is a dumb question but the shopsmith gauge wont go past 90 on the one side. theres that metal block with the adjustment screws there. how do i get it so i can make a miter joint when cutting something like moulding where its not flat on both sides.

Btw im new to shopsmith. I just bought a greenie that runs (after i replaced the switch to a high amp one)and is rust free

Hi,
I read your post and I think that you are referring to the miter gauge not going past 90 deg on one side. If this is correct that when you loosen the lock knob and the protractor head will not move to one side then you will have to check the stop pin in the head of the miter gauge. There is a pin that sets the protractor to 90, 45 left and 45 right under the handle of the miter guage. If this pin is stuck then you can only move the protractor in one direction, the other direction of movement will be blocked by the pin to establish the 90 deg angle.
If you have a manual you can check in the alignment section that describes setting the miter gauge stops and you will see the pin that I am referring to.
Bill

boozeclues wrote:so im sure this is a dumb question but the shopsmith gauge wont go past 90 on the one side. theres that metal block with the adjustment screws there. how do i get it so i can make a miter joint when cutting something like moulding where its not flat on both sides.

Btw im new to shopsmith. I just bought a greenie that runs (after i replaced the switch to a high amp one)and is rust free

Are there two questions here? if so:

1)Pull the pin out on the front of the mitergauge. When pushed in, the stop prevents motion in that direction.

2)The molding has flat portions which can be pressed against both the mitergauge and the table.

A bit of trivia on the Miter gage's stop-pin.

Very old miter-gages (e.g., Greenies) have their stop-pin's flat-face bearing against a roll-pin inside the aluminum block. Newer gages have the stop-pin's flat-face bearing against one of the 2 screws holding the aluminum block onto the miter-bar.

In case of a "jam" inside that aluminum block, the old greenies are a tad harder to service on account of that roll-pin.

thanks for all the responses. if after tinkering i cant get the pin to pull out i think ill just buy a gently used one or by a incra as my next buy (well after i buy a new saw blade.... that 52 year old one is pretty dull :P )

boozeclues wrote:thanks for all the responses. if after tinkering i cant get the pin to pull out i think ill just buy a gently used one ........ )

Remember, if you buy one, DON'T discard your old one. There are plenty of folks who would have use for the one you have now. It's functional with a little TLC.

well i fixed it after removing the two screws from the bottom of the bar that attach the block containing the pin, I put the block in my vise and with a little wd-40 and a 2lb hammer gently tapped the pin down then flipped it over the other way and repeated till it went in and out slowly.
works like a charm now!

boozeclues wrote:well i fixed it after removing the two screws from the bottom of the bar that attach the block containing the pin, I put the block in my vise and with a little wd-40 and a 2lb hammer gently tapped the pin down then flipped it over the other way and repeated till it went in and out slowly.
works like a charm now!

GREAT! Did you need 2# hammer to "tap gently"?;)

[quote="JPG40504"]GREAT! Did you need 2# hammer to "tap gently"?]

LOL probally not but even with the 2lb it took quite a bit of force to get it to break free. the paint on the side that i couldnt over to was completely unscratched which makes me think the pin was never moved to that side by the original owner.