Page 1 of 2
Horizontal boring setup question
Posted: Tue Jun 08, 2010 4:35 pm
by rdewinter
I need to bore a 1 1/2” diameter hole about 2” deep through a turned 2 ½” spindle. How do you attach a Jacobs’s chuck (with a spade bit) to the SS tailstock so you can move the quill, where the turned spindle is mounted on a faceplate, through the spade-mounted bit to drill the hole?
I’m making a grommet that fits a hole in the center of a patio table that holds the umbrella. I turned a spindle that is 2 ½” in diameter with a 3 1/4 “ diameter 3/8” thick lip. The lip is to keep the grommet from falling through the tabletop.
My first attempt at creating the grommet was moderately successful. I turned the spindle and then attempted to bore the hole through the grommet using the drill press mode. The hole was not centered. Needless to say, I was not happy!
Suggestions welcome.
Posted: Tue Jun 08, 2010 4:40 pm
by tom_k/mo
Bob, you need a
Lathe Arbor. With that, you can attach your Jacobs Chuck to the tail stock, or you can attach your 4-jaw chuck to the tail stock and use the Jacobs chuck on the Quill.
Posted: Tue Jun 08, 2010 4:44 pm
by pennview
You need item 505603, the tailstock chuck arbor. You put it in the tailstock instead of the center and then mount the drill chuck on it.
Posted: Tue Jun 08, 2010 4:45 pm
by charlese
Hi, Bob! Two suggestions:
1) Buy a Tail Stock Chuck Arbor
http://www.shopsmith.com/ownersite/catalog/dr_tailstock_chuckarbor.htm
2) Fix a handscrew the way Ed (rieble) has shown in another post and use the vertical drill press.
https://forum.shopsmith.com/viewtopic.php?p=68165&postcount=1
Posted: Tue Jun 08, 2010 5:05 pm
by JPG
Use a Forstner bit. The spade bit will wander severely. I know, they be expensive(the good ones)!
P.S. or you could drill the 'hole' before 'turning'.
Posted: Tue Jun 08, 2010 5:07 pm
by paulmcohen
rdewinter wrote:I need to bore a 1 1/2” diameter hole about 2” deep through a turned 2 ½” spindle. How do you attach a Jacobs’s chuck (with a spade bit) to the SS tailstock so you can move the quill, where the turned spindle is mounted on a faceplate, through the spade-mounted bit to drill the hole?
I’m making a grommet that fits a hole in the center of a patio table that holds the umbrella. I turned a spindle that is 2 ½” in diameter with a 3 1/4 “ diameter 3/8” thick lip. The lip is to keep the grommet from falling through the tabletop.
My first attempt at creating the grommet was moderately successful. I turned the spindle and then attempted to bore the hole through the grommet using the drill press mode. The hole was not centered. Needless to say, I was not happy!
Suggestions welcome.
Any Jacobs chuck with a #2 Morse taper will fit in the tailstock. You will also need a 4 jaw chack for the headstock.
Posted: Tue Jun 08, 2010 6:17 pm
by charlese
JPG40504 wrote:Use a Forstner bit. The spade bit will wander severely. I know, they be expensive(the good ones)!
Although I have always used Forstner bits for end boring on the lathe, I recall a post from Nick that said Forstners are not designed to be used in end grain. He recommended spade bits with more obtuse angles, you can easily make with a file.
That said, I still use the Forstners and have had no issues, however I don't understand why a spade would wander more, they have a longer side edge than a Forstner. Those edges will ride on the circumference of the hole, thus keeping the bit straighter. -(I think!) Spade bits also usually have a longer spur than most Forstners.
Here's Nick's Post - from 2008
https://forum.shopsmith.com/viewtopic.php?p=9516&postcount=18
Posted: Tue Jun 08, 2010 7:03 pm
by JPG
charlese wrote:Although I have always used Forstner bits for end boring on the lathe, I recall a post from Nick that said Forstners are not designed to be used in end grain. He recommended spade bits with more obtuse angles, you can easily make with a file.
That said, I still use the Forstners and have had no issues, however I don't understand why a spade would wander more, they have a longer side edge than a Forstner. Those edges will ride on the circumference of the hole, thus keeping the bit straighter. -(I think!) Spade bits also usually have a longer spur than most Forstners.
Here's Nick's Post - from 2008
https://forum.shopsmith.com/viewtopic.php?p=9516&postcount=18
Actually the spade bits ride the circumference, but only contact at two narrow points at a time. A forstner bit will ride the circumference all the way around(that is why it doesn't need a lengthy spur once started). IMHO the BEST bit is an old fashioned auger bit(with plain center spur). It will ride the circumference like a forstner, but can more agressively cut the end grain. They have the outer spurs like a forstner also. But then they have been out of favor due to cost. An old brace type bit with a trued shank and 'unthreaded' center spur will do well.
Posted: Tue Jun 08, 2010 7:18 pm
by SDSSmith
rdewinter wrote:I need to bore a 1 1/2” diameter hole about 2” deep through a turned 2 ½” spindle. How do you attach a Jacobs’s chuck (with a spade bit) to the SS tailstock so you can move the quill, where the turned spindle is mounted on a faceplate, through the spade-mounted bit to drill the hole?
I’m making a grommet that fits a hole in the center of a patio table that holds the umbrella. I turned a spindle that is 2 ½” in diameter with a 3 1/4 “ diameter 3/8” thick lip. The lip is to keep the grommet from falling through the tabletop.
My first attempt at creating the grommet was moderately successful. I turned the spindle and then attempted to bore the hole through the grommet using the drill press mode. The hole was not centered. Needless to say, I was not happy!
Suggestions welcome.
Hi Bob,
I have a tailstock chuck arbor you can borrow if you would like to give it a try before you buy one.
Posted: Tue Jun 08, 2010 8:38 pm
by JPG
SDSSmith wrote:Hi Bob,
I have a tailstock chuck arbor you can borrow if you would like to give it a try before you buy one.
Rob will do anything to get an impressionable shopsmith owner into his lair!:D Wish
I was near San Diego!