Shopsmith Forums

You have all been so helpful with the Edge Glue Joint thread, I thought I would revel my complete gate design. Well, it's not complete...

This is all cedar. The vertical sides are 2x4 with 1" tenons. Top and bottom made from 5/4 x6 and 5/4 x 8 (1" finished thickness.) I would cut the curves in the top using the band saw when all three boards (5 boards actually) are glued together.

I am considering no-screws, no-nails, just because it would be neat. Might use wood dowels and epoxy as suggested here.

onetrack

Looks like a great design. If I can suggest one thing it's a cap over the arched portion of the door. This could be a simple board routed with a groove the width of the 3 boards. This would allow water to shed away from the glue joints and off the gate. Water finds it's way into glued up boards a bit.

onetrack wrote:You have all been so helpful with the Edge Glue Joint thread, I thought I would revel my complete gate design. Well, it's not complete...

This is all cedar. The vertical sides are 2x4 with 1" tenons. Top and bottom made from 5/4 x6 and 5/4 x 8 (1" finished thickness.) I would cut the curves in the top using the band saw when all three boards (5 boards actually) are glued together.

I am considering no-screws, no-nails, just because it would be neat. Might use wood dowels and epoxy as suggested here.

onetrack

I agree with Holsgo. Consider a drip(1/4") cap over the ends also.


The forces on the gate are illustrated below. Only points A,B,C are of concern. The rest is merely resisting gravity.

A is being compressed down toward point C along the diagonal brace which will be in compression. B is being pulled down and left(rotation) by the most of the weight of the gate. C is being pushed right and slightly down.

The 'brace' on the left is essentially decoration. The left joints are minimally loaded(provide gravity resistance only).

The most critical joints are A and B.

A blind dowel at A would be good. The hinge would cover exposed dowels at B and C. Larger diameter the better(up to the point of weakening that which is being 'doweled').

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Getting back to the T&G on the top arch - Now that we see the whole picture, I think the T&G is a bit of overkill, as the laminated plank that you will be making will be super strong with glue alone.

I wonder how to make the deep tenons in the ends of the edge boards. I was planning on using the tabel saw in cross-cut mode to cut the shoulder of the tenon, and then 'mill' the cheeks using router. I guess the dado in cross-cut mode would be another method. I don't see how the Tenon Master Jig could be used.

By the way, the edge boards 2x4 cedar and are 40 in. long.

onetrack

onetrack wrote:I wonder how to make the deep tenons in the ends of the edge boards. I was planning on using the table saw in cross-cut mode to cut the shoulder of the tenon, and then 'mill' the cheeks using router. I guess the dado in cross-cut mode would be another method. I don't see how the Tenon Master Jig could be used.

By the way, the edge boards 2x4 cedar and are 40 in. long.

onetrack

To make the longer tenons, I would use a dado blade and the cross cut mode. I would have a long support extension on the miter gauge. I would use the rip fence as a stop for the tenon shoulders. Mill with a router? - no need! If the tenons need touched up use a hand chisel.

Kind of like making a half lap joint but with a shallower depth of cut.

Thought you might appreciate an update on this project. I found a bit of time to putter away at this... finally finished the first small gate. Made from lumber-yard cedar decking boards, expoxy, maple dowels. I stuck to the design very closely.

onetrack
Paris ON CANADA

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That's too purty to put outside!:D

What did you use for dowels?


Finish? Paint?:eek:

Dowels are heat treated Maple http://www.finewoodworking.com/tool-gui ... rough.aspx

I was going to leave the cedar natural, to age grey. But I think I might change my mind and rub in some Danish oil, just to give the wood a little better water-repellent-ness

onetrack

The real problem spot with this design is the diagonal brace. It creates a spot where the water is funneled directly into a joint with no provisions to drain it out. The brace should be moved about 1/4" away from the vertical member so that any water that follows it down to the joint can drain out the bottom.
I am a lifetime farmer... I know gates.


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