Page 1 of 3
What Live Center Size Should I Buy
Posted: Tue Oct 18, 2011 8:05 am
by myoung44708
I am buying the pen mandrel from Penn State and would like to know what size of live center to buy.
I am ordering the 30 pen sample pack as a learning tool.
Posted: Tue Oct 18, 2011 8:40 am
by tom_k/mo
The tailstock accepts a standard Morris Taper #2.
Posted: Tue Oct 18, 2011 9:11 am
by pennview
If you already have a live center for your Shopsmith, you might be interested in this item from PSI --
http://www.pennstateind.com/store/PKMSTS2.html
PSI calls it a mandrel saver. With a traditional live center, you can bend or bow a mandrel by applying too much pressure. The above mentioned center is hollow and accepts the end of the pen mandrel and is said to prevent you from bowing the mandrel.
Posted: Tue Oct 18, 2011 9:16 am
by anmius
Don't forget that you will need the Shopsmith Spidle adapter for their mandrel:
http://www.pennstateind.com/store/L5818.html
And some here have positive comments about their Pen Mandrel Saver:
http://www.pennstateind.com/store/PKMSTS2.html
Posted: Tue Oct 18, 2011 11:55 am
by terrydowning
Actually penn state has a mandrel specifically for the shopsmith. I use that and the mandrel saver, I really like the mandrel saver for mandrel turning. As for the live center, if you can afford it, you may want to get the MT2 60 degree live center. Once you get started on pens, you will find the live center a useful tool in your inventory.
Posted: Tue Oct 18, 2011 12:25 pm
by wa2crk
Hi Gang;
I have the PSI mandrel saver and I have not convinced myself that it is all that useful on the SS. It is probably OK on a smaller lathe but I have not tried to use it on my Delta midi yet. When I tried to remove the turning from the mandrel and pulled the quill all the way back there was not enough room between the mandrel and the tailstock to remove the work. That necessitated the moving the headstock to the left and then re-positioning the headstock to re mount the workpiece. I was at the PSI facility in PA with my son recently and the salesperson had to pick through about a dozen samples before he found two that had good bearings. The others felt as though there was sand in the bearings. He also said that there were a lot of problems with the first batches but they did make good on all of them. They will continue to do that. That is good to hear. I think the money is better spent on a good 60 deg center with a good bearing cause it can be used for other things other than pen making.
I also have the PSI mandrel for the SS and it comes with a 7mm drill bit and some spacers. This product I do like. A LOT!!! It has some weight to the headstock end and fits the quill shaft very well. If you do get one of these make sure to check the tightness of the mandrel shaft to the adaptor and make sure it is really tight enough. Mine loosened the first time I used it. So did the one my son has. A drop of blue loctite may be advisable.
More info as I develop it.
Bill V
Posted: Tue Oct 18, 2011 1:03 pm
by wa2crk
Here is a pic of a couple of high end pens that I turned using the PSI mandrel for the SS and also the mandrel saver. The parts work but I still have questions about the saver. I prefer the Power Pro to the midi lathe though.
[ATTACH]14513[/ATTACH]
Bill V
Posted: Tue Oct 18, 2011 4:53 pm
by myoung44708
#2 taper it is!
Posted: Tue Oct 18, 2011 8:03 pm
by fjimp
terrydowning wrote:Actually penn state has a mandrel specifically for the shopsmith. I use that and the mandrel saver, I really like the mandrel saver for mandrel turning. As for the live center, if you can afford it, you may want to get the MT2 60 degree live center. Once you get started on pens, you will find the live center a useful tool in your inventory.
Granted I have only turned a few hundred pens so likely not considered an expert. Yet I would agree the Penn State Mt2 60 degree live center is the best option. Fjimp
Posted: Tue Oct 18, 2011 9:04 pm
by JPG
FWIW: #2 Morse Taper or MT2 or 2MT
From Wiki...
[ATTACH]14514[/ATTACH]
[ATTACH]14515[/ATTACH]
A = .7 "
B = 2.95"
C = 3.15"
D = .63"
H = .197"