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Shopsmith Large Format Drawings, Illustrations and More

everettdavis

Some of the early drawings for Greenies left me scratching my head, along with some of the early nomenclature....

Thank God we don't call the internet "The Worldwide Interdigitary"

I presume they used that word to help envision a web of the interface of the Motor / Fan Sheave Assembly. If it walks like a duck.... oh well I thought some of you would enjoy it.

Everett

Greenie Gilmer Headstock Early Drawing - reduced size for forum.jpg

JPG

That shows the belt and sheaves to be in high speed position. The motor pulley is indeed closed and the idler pulley is open.

Why the "?"?

It also shows a non-clutched drive sleeve.

P.S. It is now a spring loaded "floating" sheave (with interlocking fingers). :D

rpd

The drive sleeve shown is also a lot longer, (extends into the back of the quill).

Oh, and the Power Take-offs made me chuckle. :)

everettdavis

JPG wroteThat shows the belt and sheaves to be in high speed position. The motor pulley is indeed closed and the idler pulley is open.

Why the "?"?

It also shows a non-clutched drive sleeve.

P.S. It is now a spring loaded "floating" sheave (with interlocking fingers). :D

The ?

Look at the drive belt and how the sheaves are drawn, then envision it opening up and tracking the gap as they open.

It just looks off to me. Optics I guess.

Bill Mayo said there was a non-clutched drive sleeve.

Everett

JPG

everettdavis wrote
JPG wroteThat shows the belt and sheaves to be in high speed position. The motor pulley is indeed closed and the idler pulley is open.

Why the "?"?

It also shows a non-clutched drive sleeve.

P.S. It is now a spring loaded "floating" sheave (with interlocking fingers). :D
The ?

Look at the drive belt and how the sheaves are drawn, then envision it opening up and tracking the gap as they open.

It just looks off to me. Optics I guess.

Bill Mayo said there was a non-clutched drive sleeve.

Everett

I envision the sheave(s) as if it were sliced which is the purpose of a 'cut away' view. Requires some perspective(x-ray mind :cool: ). Realize the cross sectional shape varies around the axis (those pesky digits and the interstitial space between them). The motor pulley is shown with the it fully closed and the interdigitary meshing complete(low area accepting high area) whereas the idler pulley is shown open with the cross section NOT *** aligned with the high/low areas of the sheaves.

*** NOPE!!!! The idler puller IS drawn with the cross section coincident with the center of the fingers etc.. I took another look after making misstatement above.

P.S. Note it shows a Franklin motor.

P.P.S. Note the proximity of the bearing retaining clip to the Gilmer belt!

everettdavis

JPG wrote
That shows the belt and sheaves to be in high speed position. The motor pulley is indeed closed and the idler pulley is open.

It also shows a non-clutched drive sleeve.

P.S. It is now a spring loaded "floating" sheave (with interlocking fingers). 😃

I mentioned that Bill Mayo had seen some of the earliest Greenies that did not have the gilmer/clutch assembly, rather direct drive.

One of his posts discusses that. http://woodworking-unlimited.com/ss_forum/viewtopic.php?p=110806&sid=22b519968dc76692ae92bbc9ff993327#p110806

This additional drawing that came from 1954 Hans cache of documents and clippings illustrated this in October 1954. Had they had the Clutch Drive Assembly in production, one would have presumed they would have illustrated that in the Oct 1954 article as they could have touted the new feature and protections it offered.

Everett

Solid Drive Sleeve Hub - Early Greenies published Oct 1954 - reduced size for forum.jpg

JPG

There's that word again! :D

smokeshow

This information is almost invaluable!

everettdavis

I just uploaded a file I had meant to upload for months.

It is a cross sectional drawing of the speed control mechanism.

So Happy Father's Day folks.

File is under My Google Drive in "Drawings - Mark V & Mark 7" folder, which I suspect will get renamed to "Drawings - Mark 5 / V & Mark 7" at some point in the future as I begin documenting the original Mark 5 as more viable source materials are located for the Mark 5.

Everett

everettdavis

Update 6/22/2018 - Magna 4E Owner's Guide from Hans files

In Hans Goldschmidt folder under My Google Drive

Everett

everettdavis

Many thanks to Russ Chapman for scanning and sending me a copy of what we presume is the very first release of a 1954 Mark 5 Manual.

From that I have extensively reworked the drawing, created and posted a “C” size drawing 22” x 17” titled “Mark 5 1954 Exploded Parts Diagram reworked Axes Perspectives and Supplemental Illustrations.PDF”

It is in My Google Drive in a new folder on the Main Page titled “1954+ Mark 5”

Wiley Wells has sent me today what we believe is version two, and Russ believes he has version three that he will scan in the future.

I will begin the process of reworking and retouching [Not Re-Writing] them in order, and I will place those in the Same Folder “1954+ Mark 5” when I’m done.

This has some new ideas in presenting the perspectives and I’d love to hear what you think.

Print Warning be sure to set your printer to resize to the size paper you have! It is drawn at 22” x 17” You will get multiple pages with segments if you don’t.

Kinko’s can Print one full size if you want one that big. Drawing it this size allows you to zoom to a large size on your screen.

Everett

everettdavis

MAGNA Model 620-C Jointer - Sep 64 Manual was uploaded to the Jointer Folder on the Main Page of My Google Drive - It is a restored collection from various copies with the latest coming from Forum User Michael Mayo.

There is also a large format exploded parts view there

MAGNA Model 4E Jointer - 1953 is under the From Dr. Hans Goldschmidt folder in a sub-folder titled Magna 4E Jointer Model 620

I am still looking for a pristine copy of the Model 620-C Jointer, but this one will have to do for now. If you have an original of that vintage and have the ability to scan it in 300 dpi, please send it to ShopsmithHistorian@gmail.com if you would be so kind.

Kindest Regards,

Everett

everettdavis

Restored copies of:

1954 Shopsmith Mark 5 Owners Guide Release 1 - 11 x 17

1954 Shopsmith Mark 5 Owners Guide Release 2 - 11 x 17

1955 Shopsmith Mark 5 Owners Guide Release 3 - 11 x 17

Are In the “1954+ Mark 5” folder on main page of My Google Drive

Thanks to Russ Chapman and Wiley Wells for providing me copies of their scanned original manuals to work from to restore them.

Believe it or not, we are up to April 1955 manual release, and still Magna has not introduced the Gilmer Clutch Drive System in the Mark 5.

The Direct Drive without clutch is still shown in the April 1955 Manual.

As more manuals come my way for restoration, we will get there I am sure.

Everett

everettdavis

Latest File on My Google Drive is Collection of MAGNA Employee Newsletters.PDF

The acquisition covers Nov 1952 through Dec 1958 but did not contain all the sequential issues, nor did all the issues contained have all the pages of the issue as pages 3 & 4 within the 6 page issues were all missing. There is a lot of material in the 75 pages, dates and treasured photos. It is on the Main Page

Everett

everettdavis

This post likely fits in the 'More' category.

As I am working to flesh out a Shopsmith Motor Guide in coming months in somewhat the style of the Shopsmith Bearing Guide I did previously, I would be remiss if I did not discuss issues within the End Bells, as well as fit and finish within end bells that are important for a proper bearing fit.

The examples I have chosen were for repairs on a much beefier K&T milling machine motor end bells but the concept is what I am trying to convey relative to equivalent bits and pieces in the various Shopsmith motors through the years.

The first video is for the end bells, and the second for the armature itself. Again, both are larger dimensionally than Shopsmith motor, but the videos are quite good at explaining what is done to diagnose end bell and rotor issues that may be present.

For you home/hobbyist machinists, you will feel more at home with smaller motors but you can see why some motor repairs are costly or perhaps cost prohibitive.

Equally you will understand my taking all the precautions I describe in the Shopsmith Bearing Guide to prevent bending shafts during bearing removal processes are necessary for the quill spindle, the drive sleeve, and certainly the motor shafts.

End Bells

Rotor Examination

Rotor Shaft Replacement not shown.

Had the original shaft not been bent, here is a process he could have used a metalizing shaft repair to add metal via weld spray then re-machining the original shaft to tolerance. It is a different part for something else, but the process is the same.

I realize some may not be as interested in the Machine Shop segments, but the underlying issues discussed are important for any motor needing inspection and repair.

Everett

jsburger

everettdavis wroteThis post likely fits in the 'More' category.

As I am working to flesh out a Shopsmith Motor Guide in coming months in somewhat the style of the Shopsmith Bearing Guide I did previously, I would be remiss if I did not discuss issues within the End Bells, as well as fit and finish within end bells that are important for a proper bearing fit.

The examples I have chosen were for repairs on a much beefier K&T milling machine motor end bells but the concept is what I am trying to convey relative to equivalent bits and pieces in the various Shopsmith motors through the years.

The first video is for the end bells, and the second for the armature itself. Again, both are larger dimensionally than Shopsmith motor, but the videos are quite good at explaining what is done to diagnose end bell and rotor issues that may be present.

For you home/hobbyist machinists, you will feel more at home with smaller motors but you can see why some motor repairs are costly or perhaps cost prohibitive.

Equally you will understand my taking all the precautions I describe in the Shopsmith Bearing Guide to prevent bending shafts during bearing removal processes are necessary for the quill spindle, the drive sleeve, and certainly the motor shafts.

End Bells

Rotor Examination

Rotor Shaft Replacement not shown.

Had the original shaft not been bent, here is a process he could have used a metalizing shaft repair to add metal via weld spray then re-machining the original shaft to tolerance. It is a different part for something else, but the process is the same.

I realize some may not be as interested in the Machine Shop segments, but the underlying issues discussed are important for any motor needing inspection and repair.

Everett

Good stuff Everett. Those are exactly the procedures we used when repairing aircraft generators for the Air Force. Typically end bell bearing liners were capable of being pressed out instead of having to be machined out due to design. We called the rotor shaft repair Flame Spray instead of Spray Weld but it is the same procedure.

everettdavis

Chapter 7 Service from *1957 Dealer Manual is now under My Google Drive link in the post titled “Shopsmith Large Format Drawings, Illustrations and More” in Maintenance and Repair Forum. See http://www.shopsmith.com/ss_forum/viewtopic.php?p=185690#p185690 if you aren’t familiar with where to find it.

The file is “Chapter 7 1957 Service Manual Shopsmith Dealers Guide - 11 x 17.PDF” from the Dealer Manual I am restoring courtesy of forum member ‘amboyna’ who procured and preserved the 300+ page Shopsmith Dealer Manual. File is in sub folder: Dealer Manual WIP

*Note the original 1954 Manual has updated sections dating to 1957 hence the 1957 reference, even though some of those date references may not appear in this chapter.

everettdavis

Google+ Shutdown notes:

I have received a number of email questions asking if this change at Google will have any effects on My Google Drive and the Shopsmith Materials I have posted.

Google states no, Google Drive is not affected

Everett

Google Plus Shutdown.png

everettdavis

I added a few Freud documents on Raised Panel Doors in folder titled Raised Panel Doors. They are based on Router Bits used in a routing operation. I prefer a quality router table, 3HP variable speed router, JessEM Stock Guides, and a Rail Coping Sled for safety and precise control.

I do not use the large raised panel cutters on my Shopsmith even though it is slow enough to.

I have used the saw and various jigs to cut beveled panels for raised panel doors. Cutting the stiles and rails with the cope and bead cutters on a Shopsmith, I have done even without a speed increaser.

Be aware that when using router bits on a Shopsmith in a drill press mode from above, STOCK FEED is from the Opposite Side opposed to a Router Table. READ YOUR MANUAL and BE SAFE.

I posted this because so many owners want to make raised panels, and there are often other quality tools in our shops besides our Shopsmith, which are well suited to doing them.

Everett

everettdavis

Added a file for the Button Bearing Illustration that was privately requested by a non-forum member who requested it through the Shopsmith Owners Facebook Group. It is also on My Google Drive

Everett

Button Bearing Illustration.jpg

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