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Craigslist find = New project 10ER

joebob80

chapmanruss wrotejoebob80,

I am glad to see your restoration coming along. Sorry I have not been on here but today is the first time I have caught up on reading these posts since returning from vacation. Ron, John and JPG seem to have the help you needed well in hand.

For the Miter, the spring can be replaced by finding one that fits. Just not to soft of a spring and could be cut to length if a longer one is found. The pin is the difficult replacement. If anyone wanted to make some I'm sure they would sell. I would buy one for the extra Miter I have that is missing it. As has been suggested Miters come up for sale often but generally complete ones. There were only two Miter versions that came with the Model 10's. Yours is the second and most common one.

The Tailstock Bolt comes up for sale once in awhile. You can use, as suggested, a regular bolt plus a washer, in the mean time. You could try contacting ebay sellers that regularly sell Shopsmith parts to see if they have one. Do get the one shown in Ron's pictures which does not block the Extension Table from being lowered all the way down.

No worries. Hopefully you had a good vacation! Others on the forum have been great responding to my never ending list of questions as you can see. As for the missing miter parts, I'm thinking of trying a spring and steel ball combo like what I found in my spare craftsman miter. It shouldn't be that hard to find them in 1/4" D.

Contact ebay seller for bolt - Done!

joebob80

Bearing Question - How much resistance should I feel when turning the spindle or motor by hand? Is there something I could compare it to? Like a miter saw?

They both take some effort to turn by hand with spindle having more resistance than the motor. I would think if there was a difference the motor should be harder to rotate considering the mass.

JPG

The effect the geater mass of the motor has is that it resists changes in motion(speed/direction). A motor should resist initial motion, but once moving the force to continue that motion is only due to frictional forces.

If you can turn either one with no feeling of resistance varying as it rotates should be good.

joebob80

Thanks JPG!

chapmanruss

When turned by hand they should turn smooth and freely. These tools are 70 years old give or take 3 years. Replacing the Quill and Drive bearings are commonly needed. In fact there has been only one Model 10 I restored that didn't need them. In that case I believe they were not the original bearings. Unless you want original Fafnir bearings you can get the correct size replacements from hogwinslow on ebay.

I do find it interesting that the motors do not need new bearings as often and I have not needed to replace that many. The A. O. Smith motors just seem to keep going and going. I even have two very early A. O. Smith motors (shown below) from My Shopsmith Model 10E's S/N 1033 and 1077 that the bearings are still good on. When you had the motor apart did you check to see how smoothly the bearings turned? That would be your best indicator.

A O Smith 1-2 HP Motor early version r.jpg

joebob80

Miter update -

Here is what I ended up using.

1/4" diameter steel ball

<1/4" diameter spring cut to length. I went with a stiff spring so the ball sits in the hole and doesn't try and shoot out.

joebob80

chapmanruss wroteWhen turned by hand they should turn smooth and freely. These tools are 70 years old give or take 3 years. Replacing the Quill and Drive bearings are commonly needed. In fact there has been only one Model 10 I restored that didn't need them. In that case I believe they were not the original bearings. Unless you want original Fafnir bearings you can get the correct size replacements from hogwinslow on ebay.

I do find it interesting that the motors do not need new bearings as often and I have not needed to replace that many. The A. O. Smith motors just seem to keep going and going. I even have two very early A. O. Smith motors (shown below) from My Shopsmith Model 10E's S/N 1033 and 1077 that the bearings are still good on. When you had the motor apart did you check to see how smoothly the bearings turned? That would be your best indicator.

A O Smith 1-2 HP Motor early version r.jpg

Not having the motor completely apart, I was only really able to inspect the bearing on the opposite end from the pulley. The bearing was marked 203 SFF and visually looked good. It rotated smoothly with no varying resistance. I also didn't notice any looseness/play.

Assuming these are the original bearings, I'm starting to think it may be a good idea to start looking for some replacements. =)

JPG

joebob80 wrote
chapmanruss wroteWhen turned by hand they should turn smooth and freely. These tools are 70 years old give or take 3 years. Replacing the Quill and Drive bearings are commonly needed. In fact there has been only one Model 10 I restored that didn't need them. In that case I believe they were not the original bearings. Unless you want original Fafnir bearings you can get the correct size replacements from hogwinslow on ebay.

I do find it interesting that the motors do not need new bearings as often and I have not needed to replace that many. The A. O. Smith motors just seem to keep going and going. I even have two very early A. O. Smith motors (shown below) from My Shopsmith Model 10E's S/N 1033 and 1077 that the bearings are still good on. When you had the motor apart did you check to see how smoothly the bearings turned? That would be your best indicator.

A O Smith 1-2 HP Motor early version r.jpg

Not having the motor completely apart, I was only really able to inspect the bearing on the opposite end from the pulley. The bearing was marked 203 SFF and visually looked good. It rotated smoothly with no varying resistance. I also didn't notice any looseness/play.

Assuming these are the original bearings, I'm starting to think it may be a good idea to start looking for some replacements. =)

If it ain't broke, don't fix it! ;)

joebob80

Got the belts today!

Installed it and played around with the speed changer. Far as I can tell, it works great even with the badly worn shaft. Everything is moving as it should without the speed changer springs fully compressing. Also tried to check the condition of the drive bearings while it was running, but it was difficult to tell with the motor running in the background.

New issue - With belts, the SS was making a hissing sound that was intermittent at first and eventually became consistent with in a few minutes. I was able to pinpoint it to the motor, near the pulley. In no time, I had the motor apart and this time I separated the shaft from the motor cover to fully inspect the bearing. The side that was not visible before was covered in thick grease that I'm assuming leaked from the bearing?? I was also able to reproduce the hissing sound by turning the bearing (really fast).

I will do some research for new bearings, bearing tools, and diy before I do anything else.

joebob80

Could someone confirm this is the correct replacement bearing for my motor?

Marking on old bearing - MRC 203 SFF

Replacement on Amazon - Mrc 203SFF Single Row Ball Bearing https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005YS780I/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_apa_i_SraaFbRR8QTE3

chapmanruss

I have not needed to replace the bearings on any of the three 3/4 HP Motors I have had so I cannot say exactly what size they are. For the 1/2 HP Motors I have purchased bearings for I simply took the old bearings with me to get new ones. We have a good bearing supply house here in Portland. It's where I have purchased bearings for my Mark 5 restorations also. Sorry I'm not much help on this one.

joebob80

No worries Russ. There is enough information about replacement bearings on the forum, but it's little more involved than I thought.

From reading one of John's post (https://shopsmith.com/ss_forum/viewtopic.php?p=244253#p244253), it looks like 203SFF is the same bearing in the 1/2HP motor. He had a comparison photo of the original bearing and the replacement box

that showed all the information I needed.

The issue with the ones I found on Amazon (Mrc 203SFF Single Row Ball Bearing https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005YS780I/re ... aFbRR8QTE3) is it doesn't list the "internal clearance". From little that I understand, it needs to be "C3".

I also just realized one of the motor bearing is push fit that I was able to easily remove =). Like the bearing I removed yesterday, it's covered in heavy grease and when spun really fast it's also making the hissing sound. This one seems to be in worst condition.

joebob80

Replacement bearing update - Could someone tell me which one of these bearing is for the 3/4HP motor? or if I'm better off contacting Tom @ hogwinslowwoodworking?

Amazon - Mrc 203SFF Single Row Ball Bearing (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005YS780I/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=A3T4SLSJ1TBGAR&psc=1) - only info on the box is 203SFF ABEC-1, made in USA

Ebay - SKF 203-SFF / 203SFF (https://www.ebay.com/itm/SKF-203-SFF-203SFF-NEW-IN-BOX/312641053921?epid=691477299&hash=item48cadbe4e1:g:h90AAOSwSGNc9fzC) - only info on the box is 203SFF Steel/C3/ABEC-1, made in Argentina

Thanks!

chapmanruss

Tom would be a good parson to contact. I buy my Model 10 Quill and Drive Sleeve bearings from him for my restorations.

joebob80

Thanks Russ. I will contact him after I finish reading through the bearings guide by Everett.

Cleaned few more things.

toehead

My personal opinion... Go with bearings made in the USA or in Germany.

joebob80

Bearing update -

I was able to contact the shop selling the bearings off Amazon and confirmed the internal clearance is C3. This seems to align with the "MRC Bearing Services - Engineering Handbook".

mrc 1.PNG

mrc 2.PNG

joebob80

Update -

Worked on cleaning the jointer today starting with the cutter head assembly. Everything came apart with little effort, but I noticed there are no washers for the wedge screws. Also, another bad bearing that I will need to replace. =(

chapmanruss

The Jointer Head did not use washers with the Cap Screws holding the Blade Wedges in place on the 4E Jointer. Washers were used on later Models. If you want to add washers they are split lock washers. Now the good news, most of the parts on the Model 4E jointer are the same or replaceable with the current ones made. There have been some changes but those can be used as replacements if done in assemblies. The current Cutter Head Assembly which changed in the last 20 years is different than the older one being larger in diameter, different wedges and adjustment screws but the blades, bearings (current P/N 502898) and bearing housings are the same. I used the current SS bearings on a Greenie Model 620 restoration.

joebob80

That's good to know. I will add the bearings to my list of things to buy from SS (still need to order the missing shaper clamp and thinking of buying the drill press vise)

I'm also missing the jointer guard spring and the washers that go with it. The current part numbers are 514196, 502909, and 514273. Do you know if these parts are compatible?

Jonter Parts List.PNG

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