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Craigslist find = New project 10ER

rpd

Your best bet would probably be to just upgrade to the new feather guard.

https://www.shopsmith.com/ownersite/itemfind.htm?item=555480

JPG

I cannot say I know the answer, but I would suggest getting an older Mark 5 vintage guard is a solution.

chapmanruss

The Jointer Blade Guard attaches through the Hex Hole and all of them from the Model 4E to now use that same hole. If upgrading to the Feather Board Guard you will need to drill an additional hole for the stop pin. You could buy a used one of any vintage that will work. Some guards have different parts and include a nut under the table on the hex post to keep the guard from being easily removed the same as the new feather guard. If you buy a used guard you can swap the spring/hex shaft parts and make your original guard with the logo from the Model 4E Guard working again.

If I recall correctly the current parts for the Jointer Blade Guard's Knob, Spring & Shaft are compatible but have to be replaced as a complete set. This includes parts reference numbers 52 through 60B. If you choose this route contact SS service for confirmation.

joebob80

Thanks guys! I will look in to all the options before buying anything.

Here is the cleaned jointer. Still working on the cutting assembly.

JPG

Looking GOOD!!!!!!

Also glad to see a gallon container of evaporust rather than navel(sp?) jelly!! :cool:

chapmanruss

The Jointer is coming along beautifully. I will add a word of caution here. This is actually true for all of the Jointers models made through the years. Be careful not to over tighten the fence locks. The threaded sleeve can strip out the threads in the Quadrant there by needing replacement. See the circled item and the arrow in your picture below. My 4E Jointer had this problem when I purchased it. Now the good news the Jointer Quadrant is the same now as back in 1953 when the Model 4E jointer came out. It is also one of the 17 most common ordered replacements parts. It is the weak link for the Jointer.

20200710_213821 C.jpg

JPG

Also:

The open joint that slides on the front rail can become splayed due to over tightening as well.

joebob80

JPG wroteLooking GOOD!!!!!!

Also glad to see a gallon container of evaporust rather than navel(sp?) jelly!! :cool:

I did use jelly on the metal bench ends. :)

joebob80

Thanks for the info on the jointer!

You guys need to make a Dos and Don'ts post to share all your knowledge with the casual woodworker.

rpd

joebob80 wroteThanks for the info on the jointer!

You guys need to make a Dos and Don'ts post to share all your knowledge with the casual woodworker.

;) See the sticky post at the top of this page, "Newcomer Information"

https://www.shopsmith.com/ss_forum/maintenance-and-repair-f10/newowner-informaton-t7092.html

joebob80

Thanks Ron - you should rename it to Newcomer Information *Dos and Don'ts* and MORE =)

joebob80

Motor update - After all that research I ended up ordering replacement bearings from Grainger. Here is what I ordered based on my research.

https://www.grainger.com/product/SKF-Radial-Ball-Bearing-23Y205?

Does any have a photo of the motor shaft with the bearings? or know if the bottom (short end of the shaft) bearing needs a snap ring? I noticed there is a groove viable when the bearing is installed where a snap ring could be installed. Guessing it doesn't need one-would make the disassembly difficult.

chapmanruss

The bearings are a slip fit not pressed in for the A. O. Smith Motors. I don't recall a snap ring on the shaft end of the 3/4 HP Motor I did last. I didn't take any pictures of it while I had it apart. I would have to take apart the other one I have waiting to be worked on to check but it will be a while until I get to that one. The one I did last is on a 10ER waiting to be sold. The only thing a snap ring would do is keep the bearing on the shaft when taking apart the motor. Otherwise the bearing would stay with the part, shaft or housing end, having the most friction. Operationally I don't think it matters.

jsburger

The 1/2HP motor has no grove in the end of the shaft.

JPG

So now we need a thread for 'casual "restorers"'?

Only use electrolysis or evaporust to remove rust.

Minimize use of abrasives. Think of them as polishing thingies.

Only use a hammer after ALL other alternatives have been unsuccessful.

Only rarely use a hammer to tap something during reassembly.

Squeezzing is better than impact.

If you do not understand, ASK!

next . . .

JPG

jsburger wrote
The 1/2HP motor has no grove in the end of the shaft.

looks suspiciously like a groove.

jsburger

JPG wrote
jsburger wroteThe 1/2HP motor has no grove in the end of the shaft.
looks suspiciously like a groove.

whazzat.jpg

Look again at the OP's post and picture. He is talking about the other end of the rotor. The end that goes in the closed end bell where the centrifugal switch is.

joebob80

jsburger wrote
JPG wrote
jsburger wroteThe 1/2HP motor has no grove in the end of the shaft.
looks suspiciously like a groove.

whazzat.jpg
Look again at the OP's post and picture. He is talking about the other end of the rotor. The end that goes in the closed end bell where the centrifugal switch is.

Correct, thanks for the picture!

joebob80

JPG wroteSo now we need a thread for 'casual "restorers"'?

Only use electrolysis or evaporust to remove rust.

Minimize use of abrasives. Think of them as polishing thingies.

Only use a hammer after ALL other alternatives have been unsuccessful.

Only rarely use a hammer to tap something during reassembly.

Squeezzing is better than impact.

If you do not understand, ASK!

next . . .

JPG - Hard to tell your tone in your reply, but I was jk. I read the newcomer information before and didn't recall seeing the same information you shared in my post that will eventually get buried in all my updates and questions. Also, the information you shared is about operating the jointer and not related to restoring. I would think this information is more valuable to the forum.

JPG

jsburger wrote
JPG wrote
jsburger wrote
The 1/2HP motor has no grove in the end of the shaft.

looks suspiciously like a groove.

whazzat.jpg

Look again at the OP's post and picture. He is talking about the other end of the rotor. The end that goes in the closed end bell where the centrifugal switch is.

Oh THAT! 😃

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