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Beginning fixing up a 10E — Need help please

jumpmaster

Good evening...

I’ve been blessed to have been given a 10E that needs some attention before I can begin using it. I’ve posted pics on the Facebook group and now found this forum so am hoping folks might be able to help me out here.

I’m basically trying to figure out what additional parts I need to get it running. Also, what paint would be the closest match to the original gray color...hopefully there is an enamel available off the shelf that is close.

From the info folks have told me already , even though mine is marked “10E”, it’s apparently actually a 10ER? Likely made in early 1949...I think...

I’ve watched many YouTube videos and have read quite a few posts about these on here. I’m looking forward to getting mine fixed up soon. I am a disabled veteran and will be using it primarily as a lathe to make turned items for my other hobby of decorative knot work.

I understand it’s not ok to ask to buy used parts on here and I am not trying to do that. I’m just trying to gather a list of parts I need so I can know what I’m looking at before I get started on this project.

Parts I know I need so far:

Upper pulley

Upper pulley guard

At least one table rod

Sanding disc

Quill handle

Speed changer would be useful if I can find one

Various other handles (How many? Which ones?)

Can you see any other parts I’ll need from these pictures please? I will not be using it for the table saw functionality at this time.

JPG

WHY do you need a table rod?

Spur drive and tailstock arbor.

A ton of evaporust and or a trough for electrolysis and a low v DC power supply.

Quill lock. ( One of them missing knobs. )

Yes it is an ER.

OH and motor mounting plate etc.

chapmanruss

Good morning jumpmaster,

First off welcome to the Shopsmith Forum. We can help you with advice and you'll find a lot of help here. There has been a lot of debate as to when the Model 10 changed from 10E to 10ER. There is also the marking of the Shopsmith on the Logo/serial number plate going from Model 10E to ER to 10ER which can be confusing. JPG has said it is an ER but I go by what it says on the plate. Your says it is a 10E so for me it is a 10E. What is more important to me is which version of parts it has. This is important because some parts are interchangeable individually and others as assemblies. Since it looks like you have headstock version 4 yours would be a late 10E and the year is probably correct at 1949.

As to the parts you need to restore it to original JPG has already given you some of that and others you already know. The best place for you to start that list would be comparing what you do have against the parts list and drawings in the Owner's Manual. Hopefully you have one. With that you can decide which parts you don't need right away if you are only planning to use it for lathe work. Later you can get the additional part to make it complete and use the other functions.

Your big challenge ahead is disassembling everything and rust removal. Some rust may have to be removed to free parts from one another. JPG recommended Evaporust which does an excellent job of rust removal but can be a bit expensive in your case. It is reusable but you will need larger amounts to cover those bigger parts. Another option I use on larger things like the way tubes is vinegar. It works slower but is much cheaper when you need a lot. Just options to consider. Don't get discouraged though. Even a basket case can be brought back to life. Below is one I restored five years ago. It was in bad shape like yours. Lots of rust on it. I ended up replacing the Quill and Pinion because they had too much rust pitting. Missing parts were replaced too, but most parts were able to be saved.

Below is what I found inside the Headstock.

Depending on how original you want to restore it will guide the replacement part purchases. The Belt Guard for yours will be the earlier version and not the one shown on the 10ER above. The motors used back than still run like champs today. The most common one is the A. O. Smith 1/2 HP Motor and was the one sold with the Shopsmith Model 10's. There was a 3/4 HP option and some buyers opted to provide their own motor. All the motors I have gotten with Model 10s worked still and just need a little TLC. I have replaced the bearings in a very few. To date I own or have owned 23 Model 10's and restore Shopsmith Tools as a hobby.

Keep us posted on your progress and remember we are always happy to help.

R57376 restored.jpg

R57376 HS int pre.jpg

jumpmaster

JPG wrote WHY do you need a table rod?

...because mine has one and half of another one. No idea why half of one is missing.

Spur drive and tailstock arbor.

Yes, though I’m considering a Nova chuck (with appropriate adapter)...

OH and motor mounting plate etc.

I have the motor and mounting plate...just need to make sure it won’t shock the heck out of me when I turn it on...

DLB

jumpmaster wrote I have the motor and mounting plate...just need to make sure it won’t shock the heck out of me when I turn it on...

That's a great point. I'm not a Model 10 guy but some of the early Mark 5's were not grounded. I can't think of any case where it does not make sense to convert metal-chassis equipment to a three-wire system and ground the chassis. Then a short to chassis may trip the circuit breaker rather than zap the user. A ground fault system (GFCI circuit) may also protect you but only if you are plugged into one. Other things to watch for - some types of wire insulation break down over time, I would inspect for that on older equipment. Typically it's common to a brand/age/model of motor. Certainly not limited to motors though.

- David

jumpmaster

Yes, David...I’m used to dealing with old tube amps for music...I don’t dare play around with stuff like that.

The wiring on this motor does need some attention, definitely...

jumpmaster

Thank you for your reply, Russ.

jumpmaster

Does anyone happen to have a pic of the correct top pulley / belt guard I need for my machine please?

jsburger

jumpmaster wrote
Does anyone happen to have a pic of the correct top pulley / belt guard I need for my machine please?

The top pulley is a 3 step pulley, 2", 3", 4". The problem is the head stock pulley has a 13/16" bore. That is not standard and is not available today. eBay has them occasionally.

Another source is Skip Campbell... https://www.mkctools.com/10erparts.htm

The pulley cover shows up on eBay from time to time. It is not particularly rare but is not also a common part. There are two versions shown in the pictures. Either will work.

jumpmaster

chapmanruss

In John's pictures above the upper belt cover that originally came with yours would be the one on the left. As for the wiring I would replace it. That is something I do for all my Model 10 restorations and I do use 3 wire to ground it plus a new switch. At 70 years plus or minus the wire and switch are iffy at best so spend the $20 to replace them. A lot of them have had cracking insulation. It may require splicing the new wire to the existing wire inside the motor or the motor may have terminals. For the ground I usually attach a ring terminal and put it under the cover plate and screw.

When looking for a replacement pulley remember the Headstock Pulley is a 13/16" bore and smooth. The motor Pulley usually had a keyway. Something to watch for when looking online for used parts. Not all sellers are accurate with their descriptions. Both are 2", 3" and 4" step pulleys. There was a special 2" and 3" step pulley made for the Headstock but it is not what you want for your use. There was an additional special Headstock Pulley with an SPT Hub but both special pulleys a rare and not often found for sale.

jumpmaster

Is that what I’ve seen where folks can run a lathe on one side of the headstock and the disc sander on the other side, at the same time?

chapmanruss

No, SPT stands for Special or Single Purpose Tool and originally were called Add-a-Tool. It's the Jointer, Jig Saw, Belt Sander, Bandsaw, etc. When the Mark 5 came out Magna made the special pulley with the hub and adapter brackets to run the SPT's on the Model 10E and 10ER. The Mark 5 or V can run a sanding disk on the belt side of the Headstock while lathe turning and can be used for touch up sharping of the chisels. It would require a sanding disk with a 13/16" bore to be able to mount that way on a Model 10E or 10ER.

jumpmaster

Can I use a disc sander on the other side of my headstock? I’m not sure if the 10e/10er can do that, but I thought I’ve seen one do that in a couple of videos I watched...

rpd

There is no good way to run a disk sander on the left side of the headstock. The 10E/ER doesn't have a spindle on the end of the drive sleeve, like the Mark V does, and the splined end of the spindle goes all the way through the drive sleeve, so it has fairly thin walls and isn't up to a lot of side stress.

jumpmaster

Thank you for your reply, Ron, and everyone else too... I appreciate your help...

I began working on cleaning up the machine...I was able to get one side of one way tube pretty decent, but the other end is not cleaning up as well for some reason.

Also wondering what the closest shade of gray enamel would be...hoping I can buy it at Lowes’s... I saw quite a few colors of “professional enamel” spray cans there recently. Also, should I use the spray “cold galvanize” product on the cast iron parts? (After masking where appropriate, of course)

Thanks to everyone for their advice...I am blessed to have located a few parts and they are enroute now. I will also be replacing the wiring on the motor. Here are a couple more pics...

chapmanruss

The paint on the one I restored shown in the previous post is Rust-oleum Charcoal Gray paint and I add a Matte Clear Coat to remove the gloss finish. It is one of the closest colors I have found to the original color. I use Rust-oleum primer prior to painting it gray. Do mask anywhere paint should not go. It is easier to keep paint off surfaces than to remove it afterwards.

One thing I noticed in your last post was the Headstock and the Quill Lock installed backwards. The handle should be on the front side.

I had mentioned but did not directly ask, do you have an Owner's Manual? One thing the original Owner's Manuals recommended under maintenance was applying a light coat of oil to protect and lubricate the way tubes and other parts. Do NOT do that. Instead follow the recommendations in the supplement PDF attached below.

In reality all the bare metal parts can benefit from waxing to protect them from rust. Even the Aluminum Tables can benefit if you wish to use wax on the table surface.

Waxing Supplement Model 10s.pdf

jumpmaster

Yes, I have the manual and the power tools woodworking for everyone..,I’ve been poring over them.

Are you saying the headstock is installed backwards on the way tubes? If so, I suspected that when I was working on it today. Glad to have confirmation it wasn’t just my imagination.

More pics of progress...

JPG

Cannot tell fer sure, but the headstock appears correctly mounted. The carriage appears backwards. The quill lock is on the back side rather than the 'operator' side. Reversing the carriage will place the carriage lock on the 'operator' side. The trunion is correct to the headstock, but reversed with the carriage.

jumpmaster

I’d love to correct it, but everything is fixed firmly in place at the moment. I need to try soaking with PB Blaster and see if I can free it up. None of the set screws have been seized so far, thankfully.

I have brass drifts, wood blocks, and dead blow mallet if needed to carefully apply mild percussive persuasion.

I found the spur center firmly entrenched in the tailstock today. It has had PB Blaster applied...waiting for it to work...